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mig and forge welding


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It depends on what you are doing. If you are welding up billets for pattern welding, then no you do not need to scarf, and the layers can simply be tacked to hold them together until they are forge welded. If you are welding scrolls, branches, or say tong reins, then yes you do need to scarf so you have extra material where you are forge welding the pieces together. The hammering required to make a weld would reduce your cross section of the pieces you're joining and make the area at the base of your weld smaller and thus the weakest link in your piece. No mig welding is required for this but it can be employed to hold several pieces together. There have been many threads on this Forum that illustrate different methods of doing this.
I don't know how to direct you to those threads, but I'm sure someone does. Mark Aspery has done many excellent threads on this very topic. I've also posted a few with nontraditional scarfs.

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I do what Hollis does.

In addition if I'm welding a billet I'll perimeter weld leaving a very small gap on the side facing away from me and right after finishing the bead(s) I put one or two drops of 3in1 oil in the gap(s). The oil acts as a flux and the billet welds very easily at a pretty low temp, I've had success at med orange but have known guys who have steady success at med red.

In preparation I grind the layers very clean and nearly polished, 200# or better.

I heard about it, doubted it but it was really easy to test so I did. I don't do many billets but I was really surprised at how well it works, especially if you do it at normal welding temps.

So yes, mig welds come in really handy when forge welding.

Frosty

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