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I Forge Iron

Which gas saver do you recommend?


Fe-Wood

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Fe-Wood

The torch holder looks very interesting although I don’t like that the flame goes horizontally. I would prefer to see it go downward with a plate to protect the ciment base. I like very much the idea of the spring loaded left-side clamp; very neat. Would it be dangerous to have the tip of the torch coming up just over and a little bit beneath the pilot flame? That way, letting the shutt-off control arm go open would start the torch altogether. What do you think. By the way, that’s a Gentec gas saver that we see on your photographs.

Abenakis

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Buy the All States Propane Oxy, not the Harris or Smith versions.

The All States rig can indeed handle 135+psi without problem and no it isn't drawing 40psi of propane at that oxy setting. The Harris or Smith versions might be but not the All States rig.

It's more expensive but it's the best engineered and operating propane torch on the market.

Frosty

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Abenakis-
From reading the post that went with the pics, as I understand it, the torch moved over buy the flame and shut off when not in use (note the arm by the gas saver lever) and when the foot pedal was activated the lever lifted, lighting the torch and then the torch was swung out and up I presume.
Yes, thats what got me ask'n about the differance between the two. I was kinda hope'n the guy who built that stand was on this forum...

Update: I spent the day fabricating parts for my LG Hammer and I don't know how I ever got along without a time ah, I mean gas saver!!! I only turned the torch off manually a few time outa habbit. Whata great device!!!

Anybody who read this thread who is thinking about one of these, buy all means go out and get one!!! No more fidle farten around with the adjustments or black hanger when its fired to rich

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  • 1 month later...

Grant: 25 or 30 years ago i built a pop-up-torch using a Smith gas saver on a stand. Took a while and a lot of fiddling around, but i've been using it ever since and i can still get parts.
The rig was foot pedal actuated, causing the torch to rise, turn the gas on, sweep past the pilot lite and rise to a convenient position.
The torch was mounted in a cradle with thumbscrew adjustable positioning joints, on top of a flat shaft. The flat shaft has a 1/2 twist and runs through a guide slot welded to the stand. Near the bottom of the flat shaft is a swivel joint that allows the shaft to rotate along it's length. At the bottom of the flat shaft is an elbow joint that connects to the foot pedal with a fulcrum point inbetween pedal aqnd elbow.
Next to the torch cradle ,atop the flat shaft, is a clip that holds the linkage chain that runs up to the lever arm on the gas saver to turn the gas on and off as the flat shaft rises and falls.
So, when i step on the pedal, the far end of the pedal bar rises (fulcrum) and lifts the flat shaft and swivel joint, which forces the 1/2 twist through the slot causing the torch cradle and torch above to rise and pirouette so the torch tip sweeps across the pilot light just after the linkage chain opens the gas saver valves...leaving me with a lit torch, ready to go.
There is an adjustable soft firebrick on an arm that can be positioned a few inches from the lit torch for quicker, more even heating.
Clang
Peter Fels, Phoebe Palmer:artists

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  • 2 weeks later...

I see a few have used gas savers with oxy-propane. Any trouble lighting them with the pilot? I've got O/P and have propane cutting tips, but the brazing and heating torches are standard O/A. I don't have a problem lighting those, but only with a technique different than O/A. Anything else and the flame pops off the end.

I was thinking of getting a gas saver, since most of my torch work is heating for bending, some brazing, and occasional cutting. So I tried a quick check to see if it would light. I set the flame to what I think is neutral and then turned the tanks off without changing the torch valves. Then I turned them back on and tried to light using a butane lighter flame. That's my best simulation of a save pilot. The flame would just pop off the end every time.

Now it's entirely possible, even probable, that I don't have a proper mixture. There aren't any pictures out there, either on the 'net or in books, of O/P, so I go by some pretty decent text descriptions. But they're less than a thousand words, so I can't be sure. Could I just have the flame wrong? Is there a better way? Or do I really need to get O/P tips for this?

Thanks.

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Boy I wish I could help you with this Marc, I've used O/P for heating cutting only. We had a setup specificly designed for propane(no fuel saver). From a guess, I would say based on the fuel differances, the propane through an acetyline tip is going to have more pressure with less volitility. Hence the flame runs off the tip. I have now aquired a fuel saver and wonder how I got along so long without it. Even if you have to re-set your torch every time you start it, it sooo much easier having that flame at the ready to ingnite your torch. Bewhere though, you use a different fuel saver for propane...

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I went to KMS tools (here in Canada) and bought a GENTEC gas saver Model 100QF-Y for $50. Canadian! This is CHEAP! It works very well . I went and added about $80 in Quick Release Connectors (only makes sence at this point) so I can change applications out quickly. All my setups invoulve the quick release fittings for ease and speed of setup time. The Gas Saver is absoultly the only way to go. I do a lot of Gas Welding and Brazing myself and it would be insane to waste presious gas (unless your name is Standard oil Corp) by re-setting and re-lighting my torch. Look around for KMS tools around your area, if you dont have one, find a good tool distributer that sells tools cheap... you know... Discount tools.
Hope this helps:D

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