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Leaf spring steel for tools?


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Hi,

I am hoping to make some hook tools for a pole-lathe for turning bowls this weekend. I picked up a few pieces of leaf spring from a scrap yard today. Do you think the steel generally in these car parts should be okay for making gouges and hook tools for turning, or is it really a hit-and-miss thing with scrap steel?

I have no way of finding out the carbon content other than the usual temper and file method.

Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Declan

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Most turners I know like a higher carbon content to their tools than plain auto spring; howerver if you make the tools to hold carbide inserts they will work fine and should be left in a normalized state.

(I once had a bowl/vase turner come to my forge wanting to make some custom inside turning tools to hold carbide inserts. I heated a piece of steel up and put it in the vise and told him to grab it and bend it to what he wanted---bent it too far the first time so I had him bend it back to the correct curve and let cool. The next weekend he had his own forge and anvil...)

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spring steel should work ...its a med carbon steel usually..it works for knifes anyway... kinda depends on how picky you are /how hard you need it to be/how often you are willing to sharpen.....ive made punches and chizles from spring and it usually gives good service...good luck!

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Sorry I missed the "pole" in pole lathe the first time around. For slow speed, light duty; car spring should work a treat---especially if you keep it *sharp*!

Don't need carbide for a pole lathe...

Differential hardening and or tempering would be a good idea for them to keep the edge hard and the shaft tough.

We have a member of my old Irish Living History group (Y1K---time of Brian Boru) that used a pole lathe---it's a lot like work! (Though using the two single action bellows on a ground forge is too unless you can get a properly trained bellows thrall).

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Yes, thralls are hard to come by! But if you Google Robin Wood Battle of the Bowl Turners (or on YouTube) you can see that the pole lathe is really rather nifty.

Thanks for all the feedback. I've just tested a few bits of steel in the workshop and I definitely have some prospects there for a hook tool or two.

If I have any luck, I'll post some pics. It's a long term ambition of mine to forge a whole carpenter's set of tools, a la Mastermyr. With the recession here in Ireland, I might just have the time...

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I think I'd translate that Triad as "the anvil of the smith"

Three hands that are best in the world: the hand of a good carpenter, the hand of a skilled woman, the hand of a good smith.

Three things that constitute a blacksmith: Nethin's spit, the cooking-hearth of the Morrigan, the Dagda's anvil.

Three sounds of increase: the lowing of a cow in milk, the din of a smithy, the swish of a plough.

Three services the worst that a man can serve: serving a bad woman, a bad lord, and a bad smith.

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Hi,

I am hoping to make some hook tools for a pole-lathe for turning bowls this weekend. I picked up a few pieces of leaf spring from a scrap yard today. Do you think the steel generally in these car parts should be okay for making gouges and hook tools for turning, or is it really a hit-and-miss thing with scrap steel?

I have no way of finding out the carbon content other than the usual temper and file method.

Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Declan


Hello I took a course at cambell school. The class was in tool making, galvin I forgot his last name. I think he was from alabama , I also think he has past away recently. I could be wrong, BUT we were told to bring specific leaf springs and coil springs and axles all we were told are good tool steel. I do not know the type but they rehardened very well.
rakessler georgia
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I guess you are looking for authenticity there, other wise I would second the carbide tip thing. I actually got a tip holder for 1/2 carbide. I have used it many times and not sharpened it yet. As much as I prefer making things the length of time between sharpening, every 5 minutes as compared to days is hard to beat. I got a very good steel before I think I paid $70 for a piece about 1/2" by 2 x 12. the carbide was about $40 with about ten tips. sorry if off topic.

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No, not off topic at all. There's no reason why small amounts of really good steel could not be welded onto mild bar for the shafts - after all, these hook tools are quite long, and it would eat up lots of good steel, most of which would never be used for cutting. Having said that, I would need to bow to greater knowledge for such welding skills, and fortunately, my mechanic friend next door is just the man! But for historical accuracy, I would be grinding this weld down to 'hide' it. And the changeable tips wouldn't be a runner at all. But then most of the timber to be turned on a pole lathe is relatively green, so carbide should not be necessary.

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yes green wood is nice to turn. I believe the way you would do it ( possibly for a new motor lathe and hard wood) is to silver solder them in a slot that you make, such as you would see on carbide blades for circular saws. I talked to a guy who did this at work and they used something like a foil and just heated it. I would guess 1500 degrees or more which didn't harm the carbide but bonded it to the steel. You could forge weld your good steel onto your hook to keep with tradition. I believe old hay rake tines those big curvy ones have a very high .9 % carbon they would be the right diameter 3/8 ". good luck, kevin

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