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The bigger hammer is single phase as well. Hopefully the next shop has three phase, the equipment is sooo much cheaper cause not many folks can run it. I'll get some shots of my coils soon. Plenty of failures there, but its real pleasant when you make a good one. I want to try some claw shapes to isolate the heat on the edges of big flat bar. It would be cool to be able to work the edge without any warping.

There she is, next to big brother.

Three phase? I would love a bigger one. I'm giggling like a little kid in that vid and I owned it for two years!! I am so psyched for you man. Induction changes the game.

It's a bit hard to compare (I've owned a 50 lb little giant and this hammer). With the anyang the dies are way smaller and you are giving up a lot of throat. Thats the bad. The air hammer is cycling much faster and the control is so much better (please don't flame me mechanical hammer guys). If you were to race them, say putting 10 long tapers on 10 pieces of 3/4 square it would be tough to pick a winner, but I guarantee that the anyang puts out much better looking work.

Hey, thats me in the video about five posts up!!! Was not aware that existed. And those are my wedding clothes!!! Looks like I got some squishing in on the big day. Makes sense I don't remember, we had some kegs of Sierra Nevada on hand. Wow, thats just great.

Did my idea today. I cheated a bit for the shelf and filled some of the depth of the hole with a slug and tigged it on the back.

Talked to one hot dip galvanizing joint, they said they need 1/8" clearance in any voids to get good coverage. I didn't think it would work so well with all the collars but I have no experience with the process.

Electrolysis looks fun. Now all we have to do is rig up a suitable bath.

Another way of setting the disc into steel would be to use a jewelers approach to setting stones and make a bezel. Make your hole a bit undersized and then make a "seat" for the round. You could do this by drilling or an accurate punch would also do the job. Make sure to leave a lip. All thats left to do is squish the lip over your setting. A fly press would excel at this, but you could get by with a blunt chisel or even a ball peen hammer. This is a "gypsy" setting.

You manhandled the material on this one and it looks great. The details on the face and garments give a nice rough feel. The welds on the sleeves really work for me. You're on to something here Mr. Postleg, do some more!

Forgot to state the dims -- 9 feet by 2 1/2 feet. Vinegar isn't out of the question, just tough to get a bath that large. And neutralizing would be tough. thanks

A client asked us to facilitate painting and installing of these panels they bought from India. Whats the best way to get all that rust out of the nooks and crannies? They work is pretty frail and our sandblaster guys are definitely not gentle. Any other ideas? Jamie

Balance??? Its a hunk of metal on the end of a stick. If you have the coin get one so you can support the HOFI, keep him traveling the world, teaching and spreading the good word. The man and his story are an inspiration. But balance??

Your question got me thinking about why I love flat bar so much. When you forge metal you are changing the cross section of the material and that's the appeal. With flat bar this is so much more drastic given what you start with, and uses much less effort to change the dimensions. Used as a visual element it's brilliant,a long taper out of 1/2 x 2 is pretty tasty looking and you get the same impact as 2 x 2 with way less effort. If you are forging by hand you get a lot of "bang for your buck".

I have been feeling the pain of this limitation from a few of my last tool-ups as well. Learning the harder way... Thanks for sharing your jig!!!

The tongs are about standard as far as flexibility. You can grab something a bit smaller (not much) and maybe 1/2 or 3/4 bigger before the reins start getting hard to grasp. you'll do well with those two sizes. flat bar is so useful and hard to grab. these do a good job but it is all they will tong.

Those are for flat bar and are limited to the width (not thickness) of stock you are working. So if you get a 2" pair, you can work from 2 x 1/8 the way up to 2 x 1/2. Square stock won't go at all. The ones with the smaller reigns are indeed "springier", and are great.

Can't wait to make that tooling. xxxx, Sam, you got some links. How about sharing your bookmarks??? B)

Not sure if v blocks would be that much quicker anyway, you still need your "eye" more than anything. Maybe you just need to embrace your gentler side. It's so sweet that something so big can hit so soft. Mmmmm, pipe-- Heres a shot of how I do tapered v blocks for pipe. The saw is set to cut 45 degrees. The pieces mate to make one block.

Ever try a tapered v-block? Won't get rid of all the tippy taps but will put you further on down the road.

Thanks for the slideshow John. Usually not my cup o'tea... those first shots are supple, gorgeous pieces.

I paid that for my drill press and it won't even smash anything.

When starting out I modified some of the "pipe wrench" style vice grips into work holding devices (tongs). Just welded some angle iron to the jaws. Worked so well for me that it was a very long time before I used anything else. Had a pair of wolf jaw tongs my Grandma got me to fish stuff out of the gasser as well.

Anyone looking for one of these? Nice.

Didn't mean to out ya, Bryce. I love plug welding. Keeps it sale-able, which that coat rack definitely is.