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Yeah it is just a heating tool like the rest. Not like I would get rid of the oxy acetylene or anything loco. Sure would be nice to walk over and get a yellow heat on a hunk of bar stock without having to fire up a conventional forge. And repeat. It will really shine when you design something for a less "influential" client who wants some forged details. Speed = more cheap. When I said "woozy before I meant that I know my propane forge isn't doing my lungs any favors, not that it makes me ill. As for forge welding I am told it is easily obtained without flux (another lunger). Quick heat times means limited oxidizing.

reserve on that auction is 9200$ (I asked)

jeremy - yeah.... well, its large diameter threaded round rod, i think some call it acme thread, that i just forged square and twisted. the kind of stuff thats in a vise or screw jack. i really like to mess with salvaged steel. one more tip if you try it is to try twisting both directions - one "pops" more than the other. jamie

no , but good guess. much simpler whats a cheese fuller?

Steel. Dims are about 1 3/4 x 1 1/4 x 3/8. All of them are different and the backs are far from flat which is why welding a spacer piece on the back works well as i can tweak them. What kind of machine and effort is required for automated tapping? thanks jamie

here is one of mine - any reverse engineering guesses? also, i think it was Paley who would strike some hot square stock with an old ax and then twist. Real nice. jm Link to photo in the IFI gallery fixed.

the photo is up there or in the gallery. sorry, none of the back. jm

I am looking for a simpler way to make my style of cabinet pulls so i need to source some hardware that will work. Ideally what is needed is 5/8 inch round (or square or hex, dont care) stock 7/8 or so inches long tapped for a 10/32 screw. I have looked at weld nuts, post screws, coupling nuts and nothing seems to fit. Currently my solution is to weld a 1/4 inch nut into a piece of 1/2inch id. tube and weld to the back of the piece. This works well and looks nice but I would like to eliminate the hard weld. Or maybe someone knows tooling to make tapping mass quantities easy. I will try to post photos. thanks jamie

Propane is getting very expensive. Another huge benefit is a cleaner working environment. I know i feel pretty woozy after feeding my gas forge after a solid day. Those days usually involve productions jobs which is where this heater will shine. Neat Guy - thanks for the link. How did you get pricing and for which model? So, for a flat bar you would fab a flattish looking coil sequence for the required length of heat? need more info.....

Looking for some info on the pros cons and limitations of this type of heating. Does the material have to have an equal cross section? (flat bar?) Are the coils easy to fabricate? I know I have more questions I cant remember. Maybe somebody owns one and can give a report?

Man, don't try to make a flypress. Find a way to buy one and spend your time making tools and jigs and actually squishing metal. You really do get a lotta tool for the $ and it will work right the 1'st time.

make sure you got your belts. had to stare at my kmg for two days waiting on the delivery guy. killa machine. jm

Oh - tool making ... not buying. please disregard

I think an oxy-acetylene torch is an essential early tool. With forging, heat is your #1 tool. With a torch you can heat small sections which is very handy (rivets, twists, sharp bends,etc.) Plus, you can weld. It isn't the easiest but if you get good with the torch welding with the other machines is pretty cake. Get a drill press too. I make a lot of architectural crap and its rare I sell anything without a hole in it.

grinder build. check it. The grinder build begins.... - Bladesmith's Forum Board jamie

I just picked up a 40 ton press. Amazing. I love my trip hammer but this kind of power is so much more civilized.