Bob S

you can watch the whole show here...

http://video.pbs.org/video/2284159044

google image 'roof jack'

online rpm calculator at link below. mine is 331 rpm.


http://www.temecularodrun.com/ref/rpm_calc.asp

Azur, I can't think of any reason the shape would have to be a triangle. If the 'cube' (square) is working for you and easier to make, stick with it.

I think you're getting closer every day and will soon have a good shop.

Very nice.

Mine runs on a 2.5 cast iron pulley. I use 2 'B' vee belts tho I think 1 would be fine. My belts run on the outside surface of the idler. On my hammer the idler/clutch is to the rear of the machine. I worked out the speed years ago when I set it up. Think it was in the 350 rpm range. My motor is mounted low on the right side. Will take pictures tomorrow if you want.

I plan to cut the spokes out of pulley (lg3) and machine it (even though I'm not qualified)

Ha!

only part 1 of a rebuild is available but it may be of some help.

http://www.anvilmag....smith/011f2.htm

If I remember right I recall that Sid had some tooling available for rent or ? to help with pouring new mains.

you may get some ideas here azur. keep trying.

Don't know squat about them but they claim to sell buttress threads:

didn't think you would find any square threaded rod and nuts.

Are you thinking the jaws close the exact same as the threads advance like a machine vice? Leg vice moves on a pivot and since the jaws are farther from the pivot than the screw they will move farther.
My 7 1/2" vice with 2" dia thread with 2 threads per inch moves the jaw from closed to 11/16" open with one revolution of the screw. Not the 1/2" that your method of calculation would have given.
Hope this helps with what you need.
quibbling smith out

I was replying to Tim's comment that.... "This thread count results in a travel of about a 1/4 of an inch per turn of the handle.'

He did not say *jaw travel" but *travel*. In this case 'travel' would be assumed to be 'travel' of the thread since that's what we were 'talking' about. Jaw 'travel' is another issue.

You can buy square thread and nuts for it and just weld up an assembly. Making your own allows you to lathe the pieces to look like the originals.

I have seen 'acme' threaded rod and acme nuts but never 'square' threaded rod or nuts. Can you provide a source?

The thread count is normally about 3 threads per inch. This thread count results in a travel of about a 1/4 of an inch per turn of the handle.

not to quibble but...

three threads per inch would be 1/3 = .3333 etc.

closer to 5/16" (.312) per full turn. or 21/64" (.328 to be completely ridiculous.)

sorry. :wacko:

Anybody have a screw for a 7 inch jawed leg vise?

it will be easier to find a replacement vice screw if you measure the major diameter and the number of threads per inch of your existing screw. there are no 'standards' when it comes to these vices. not that I know of anyway.

unlikely that you will find a similar screw floating around out there without a vice. a shot in the dark. but nothing wrong with trying.

nice size. that's going to be fun.

i call them stop blocks. I think i hate the term -kiss block- it has all the appeal of lip gloss to me.....
:P

'stop block' also says what it is without further explanation.

Is Samuel bragging or complaining?

he should be embarrassed. and what's with the 'bare chested' look? second vid this week with no shirt? what's that? and the 'music'?

too funny. too dumb.

Stan is not teasing by withholding details.

just going from what has been posted I am guessing that after the 'new' plate and the top of the anvil were milled (and maybe ground) flat, that holes were drilled and tapped in the anvil. then matching thru holes with a large countersink were drilled in the new plate. then single ended studs were threaded into the anvil. then the plate was placed over the studs which were then heated with a torch and riveted over filling the countersink to hold the new top plate on. the surface could then be ground removing any remaining 'head'. if done well it would be hard to see the 'heads' unless someone pointed them out.

seeems like it could work but if it was me I would look for another anvil. they aren't that hard to find.

but what do I know? B)

got shirt?? :wacko:

looking at Centaur Forges possible for a coal forge.

Kevin,

I am in southeast minnesota (Winona County) and may be able to help you out on a nice coal forge. send me a private message if you're interested and I'll give you my phone number.

Bob

Your drill looks pretty light duty. If you start out with smaller drills and work your way up you might be able to drill a 1/4" (about 6 mm) hole.

I would look for an electric drill.

Good luck Azur.

Any chance you could post a picture of your breast drill? How big are the holes you want to drill in steel?

pretty nice looking anvil. not that bad even if you pay the asking price.

it's better than money in the bank.

anyone know who made it?

So why dismiss my using new steel of a proper alloy?

but is it fatty?

On this one, I had to make the spring, fine-tune the nut & screw, and put on the thick, lower washer. It is a beautiful forging, probably English.

sweet little vice.

I need some fatter hunks of metal What sources of readily available fat metal do you

fat metal? what next?