thecelticforge

Thanks for this too. It should solve another conundrum I was having. How to get the spring to compress so I can put the linkage back together after I clean it. I just ordered a new spring and a couple of spares. I am lucky that it is only 80 miles to the East side of Atlanta. The land where springs are made. I still am a bit concerned about the spacing between the coils. There is only 1/8th inch between each one and I am thinking that it will not allow the top die to go down enough. However, as it is, the linkage to the side arms is nearly horizontal to the ground so perhaps a spring with fewer coils that would be spaced farther apart?

Thanks When I glue up the wooden part of the footing, I plan on using end grain under the hammer. I will leave that part free floating so I can easily replace it.

Oh, I don't think I will do that, I have already picked that thing up enough ;)

Grassy aspirins Thanks ;)

So when the hammer is working the side arms will go to the center and the linkage will go down; when it is at rest there will be about an inch and a half space between the dies?

It's me again Margaret... Actually, it's Wind. I have a conundrum here. My Fairbanks hammer came with two dies The lower is flat with a "V" notch in it. The upper one is just flat. I thought that the previous owner had just put a too small die in the top because when I loosened the pitman arm and the hammer dropped down as far as it could go, the linkage from the side arms to the hammer rested upon the frame. There was still a good inch and a half between the two dies. I just removed the dies from the pickeling solution (cleaning) and I saw that the top die had marks where it had been dubbing against the "V" notch in the lower die. How is this possible? The side arm linkage won't allow the hammer to go any lower, yet when the linkage is resting against the frame, there is a full inch and a half between them. If it helps, the dies had a good 3 inches between them when I purchased it.

Thomas Powers taught me that if I need something hard to find, I should take a box of doughnuts to the local salvage yard or machine shop. That has been one of the most helpful pieces of advice I have ever gotten.

Keep the leaf hot.

I can forge weld as easily as I can breath and about as fast, 30 years. In that time a ma either gets better, quits, or dies. I just have a new toy and was wanting to play with it. But be at peace, I have found some things in which only a forge well will do for, and few things are a pleasing to the eye as a well done rivet. ;)

When my Grandfar would case harden stuff, he would make a "box" out of clay and pack it with shavings off of a horse's foot and the piece to be hardened. I seem to remember he kept it bright red all night and then quenched it. I was the one that got to get the clay from the creek and make the box.

I just made a fire place poker using my welder. All I had to do was heat and hammer and I will be darned if I can tell the difference between electrical and forge weld on the finished piece.

I confess that I did not wish to embrace modern technology for two reasons. There are certain sets of skills that I think are needed by every blacksmith that often times are not learned well if at all because it is easier to do things "the fast way." Also, my father was a cheapskate. There is no way around it. He bought the least expensive equipment that he could. That I think really turned me off of modern techniques. I have had a good year in the forge, so much so, I splurged. I now have a power hammer, a very nice welder, a metal chop saw, and other assorted toys. I now realize that my distrust was unfounded and I have changed many of my opinions. However, I still recommend having an excellent foundation in the basic and advanced skills first before one tries to make a living with a hammer. That then would be a good time to get all the toys. Wind Chapman

Ho veduto Grant trascinare un un giorno Catena. Gli ho chiesto perché stava trascinando la catena. Ha detto in un accento volgare: I don' la t sa spingerlo. ;)

You beat me to it! I recommend copper anodes. The ratchet to the positive I think. You may not even need to use electricity.

I heard that when I was a kid. Except Jerry Clower was telling it and it was the Ledbetter's truck. I do think however the accent at the end made it much better :~)

Glad every one is okay ~:)

Here is a great list... http://anvilfire.com/eBooks/

I noted that the metal is galvanized also!

I have found a workable solution for the oil dilemma! Lucas hub oil mixed with non detergent motor oil. It makes the oil tacky and will stick to the parts while still being able to flow. You can change the weight of the oil to adjust for temperature. Just mix the oils together according to the directions and apply enough heat to be able to mix the oils together.

Martial Law for Blacksmiths: I keep trying to picture what we would look like in uniforms...

Dayum Dude! Getting an excellent eye!

Way cool video. Funny, we are both ex Fort New Salem blacksmiths and both of us have a photo of Ronald Regan in our shop. Glad to know there are other blacksmith Gipperites out there!

It's leaning because the smith who had it made had one leg shorter than the other. It was an injury he received during the war of 1812. Okay, it was sheer artistry, but it was awfully good story telling.

The spring between the pitman arms has 1/8 spacing top and bottom between the coils. Does anyone know how much there should be?