Chaz7795

Wow, that’s a pretty sharp looking anvil. I must say I’m quite envious. That’s the size I’m hoping to get in the spring, glad to hear it has good rebound. What does the hardy hole actually measure?

Nick, I did contact Blacksmiths Depot, and talked to David Kanye as I too very much like the design and was thinking of possibly getting one in the spring. David told me he thought they were as good as any new anvils made, and their hardness was very comparable to Refflinghaus anvils that they had tested. There is very little info on Facebook, I also found a little on instagram. I believe he said they hadn’t been for sale in the US for very long so there’s not much on them yet. He did tell me they were produced by the same company that produce B&W and BSL anvils. All the pics I’ve seen show a very good quality casting. I am very interested, so if you dig up any info I would be interested in hearing about it.

Thanks for the response Irondragon. I’ve got a while to research so their anvils will definitely be considered, and in my price range. I really like the south German pattern, and particularly their take on it. My dad has a 275 pound Refflinghaus South German pattern that I’m familiar with, and I like the narrow face, the flat horn, the hardie hole on the same side as the round horn. I have also used a 140 pound Peter Wright anvil, and while a very good anvil I’m not fond of the London pattern. Which particular model Holland anvil do you have experience with?

I may be in the market for a new anvil in the spring, on a somewhat limited budget. I really like the looks of the DTX anvils, and I’m not far from Blacksmith Supply, so I could save on shipping costs. The thing I’m not crazy about is that they’re cast in China, they also appear to be just like the B&W anvils which are also cast in China. Do any of you here have any personal experience or knowledge of these two anvil brands?

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions, just what I was looking for.

Thanks for the pic BsnNFrnt. I’ll take that PVC ball valve into consideration. Your blowers just like mine, I guess the input damper on the blower wasn’t enough? Just out of curiosity do you have any pics of the face of your burner? Just curious really about hole size and number of holes.

You are very unlikely to be bothering me with anything.

Apparently I completely misunderstood your statement. I thought you were talking about something you saw in the photo other than the factory input damper, because the photo was from and odd position and probably confusing. That’s why I backed the picture out to show the entire build. The background info about myself was because I’m new to the forum, and I had seen similar info in one of your post, about how your father was a metal spinner and machinist. I’m not the least thin skinned, but I didn’t realize I was arguing anything. People’s mannerisms In different regions of the country obviously vary greatly. The ends can be closed back up if need be, I can even put the ends back in I’ve cut out, right now there’s no insulating material in the forge at all. I apologize for the rambling post, seems I had several things to address. I have a lot more I wish to say, but I’m obviously not as proficient at typing as you are. You must find it much easier to type than read. It seems odd that’s it’s so burdensome to read a paragraph of background information, but you don’t mind writing a book to address things I’ve not even asked about yet. If I chose to post again I’ll stick to the subject at hand.

Sorry about the misleading picture Frosty it was just meant to show the type of blower I have. My forge is still in the early phases of the build. Kinda building it as I go and trying to use the material I have on hand. This is we’re I’m at now, and figured the burner would be my next move. I have a ways to go yet so don’t be too harsh in your critique. I have a small shop and have to build something I can roll out of my way when not in use. I’m just getting started in my blacksmithing endeavor, I have a cheap 110 pound vevor anvil that will just have to do for now. I’m a maintenance tech at a local distribution center, but I done machine work full time for 15 years before that. My dad was showing me how to thread and make things on the lathe when I was 13 or 14 years old, and he’s also the one who peaked my interest in blacksmithing. He’s been doing it as a hobby for about twenty years I guess. He has a nice coal forge, and a 275 pound Refflinghaus anvil ( talk about anvil envy ), and he’s also building a gas forge, slightly different style but the body is the same that he can use for those things that it’s not worth getting the coal forge going for. Thanks for the reply, and I try to keep you updated with my progress.

Thank you both for your responses. The flow control that’s on the side of the blower barely makes a difference shut all the way off I would say just by feel is still putting out around 60-70%. I may try the sliding sheet metal gate approach. It’s probably going to be a little trial and error. It’s going to be a little slow going for a while, but I’ll try to keep you updated on my progress as this is a spare time project. Again think you both. By the way I live in Wilkes County in N.W. North Carolina. I’m not sure how to get that on my avatar yet but I’ll figure it out.

First time poster, long time follower. I’m building a ribbon burner forge and wondering is there a consensus on the best way to control the airflow? I’ve seen everything from ball valves to sliding gate valves downstream of the blower to different ways of diverting part of the airflow before the gas is introduced. I’m using a centrifugal type blower and I’m wondering should I be controlling it on the input or output side of the blower. Any suggestions much appreciated.