Jake18

I’ve only used WD-40 which worked to get the nut off but I can’t get the bolt out. I tried your method and I still haven’t been able to knock it out. Well I haven’t tried any penetrating oils though.

First off, my apologies for the empty quote I couldn’t figure out how tor remove it, and second, that is likely what I’ll do. I’ll probably grind down the jaws to the original and if need be fill any pockets with some weld to avoid large divots. And while I’m here, anyone have tips on how to remove the bolt that the jaw hinges on at the bottom? I cannot get it out. I have already tried heating it up.

Oh yeah you’re right, I didn’t look that closely but I think you’re right. I can see what looks like the original face of the jaws

I guess I don’t get what you’re referring to when you’re talking about plugging the male dovetail. I’m familiar with the joint but don’t get what you’re talking about.

What type of metal would I use for the jaws?

So just get a piece of tool steel( assuming that’s what the jaws are supposed to be) and then plug weld them in? Easy enough. I might have access to a mill through my college

I recently got an old post vice for cheap but part of the jaw is chipped off. I’ll post pictures here in a bit but I was wondering if I could just weld in the broken off part, build it up and grind it flat or not. Would normal welding rods be fine ir would it need to be a hard face?

Alright, I thought by doing that I could have the advantages of a D forge without losing the height on the side. I find myself to often have multiple pieces in the forge and sometimes they are taller so i was hoping to be able to use a D to encourage swirl while still having the height on the sides. And I see what y’all mean by the burner angle, thank you for that info. Also Mikey, that is one of the reasons I made the forge this tall, I see a lot of casting projects in my future so I was hoping to make a forge i could also use for that but I see what y’all are talking about. It would be a waste of space to make the forge that big. I reckon I’ll just forego that and just make another forge for that if I need to.

You're right, i am not experienced. And I thought 1/2 in was alot but i thought i saw it somewhere here that 1/2 in for the floor. My mistake. And I see i had the wrong idea of what Plistix is. I thought it was more kastolie than itc-100. What would be a good height? Thank you both for your help! Edit - I just realized the wrong ideas i thought i saw from here i saw on facebook groups. Goes to show. Other than the height of the forge.

About to start building another forge, what do y’all think of this design? still deciding on what burners to use and the spacing of them along the length. I’ll probably also add slots near the bottom to slide in a kiln shelf. The less colorful image is it drawn to scale with each square equaling 1/2 inch

That’s exactly the kind of answer I was looking for, thank you! I thought the size of the nozzle was relevant because I’ve seen a comment made about using a stepped nozzle 2.5 times the inner diameter of the mixing tube

Howdy Mikey, what would be the best place to start when trying to come up with what type of flame retention nozzle to use and what size it needs to be? If the information has already been presented in the thread then just point me to it and save some time but I’ve been trying to find it and haven’t been able to find what I’m looking for.

I got a question now. I’ve been using my buddy’s forge since I was not happy with the one I built and am working on making a better one, and his gets pretty hot but having an issue with “backfire”. The flame will go back up to the nozzle but only for a moment before going out. There is a lot of dragons breath coming out from it even at low psi. Which to me says that it is running rich(or it could possibly be from the burner only being about 4 inches from the floor of the forge?). Anyways, my guess is that the orifice is too big, creating a very rich flame at too low of a speed to pull in enough air. I’m also thinking maybe this can be improved by drilling out the holes into fill slits to allow more air. I’m not sure though. Before I just dealt with this cause it still works but realized it’s a learning opportunity so here we go.

That is pretty much the stage I am in now. Without the time to put anything together i am spending time studying these forums and other reputable sources i can find. right now i am planning on a D forge, or actually, a box with a D on top of it and using two 1/2 in burners to heat a 6x6x10 or 12 box with an undetermined arch size. After spending time on the 3-D printed burner thread, i am currently expirementing with trying to create a design as efficient as the one created by AnotherFrankenburner. At the moment i am trying to get a better understanding of flame nozzles and how they work and when to use what style cause that is where i am most lacking in knowledge.

all of the above . I have a forge i've been working with but it is not working how i would like so i am going to try and modify it to work better so i can keep using them. I will probably be asking quesstions about it later. I haven't used them in a while so i do not remember what the flame was like but i have a good idea of some modifications it could use after reading this. Other than that i will likely be building some mikey burners sometime soon and then expirementing with some other designs. I definitely can't get all that done if i dont know what a good flame looks like. Glad to hear it will get simple though after a while. looking forward to those days lol. Wow! yeah i can understand that, i can't wait to get my first good flame. In the coming months ill definitely have plenty of questions when i get time to really test this stuff and expirement. College has me pretty busy at the moment.