rich_c

Thanks, Mike! That makes things a little easier.

Thanks for the reply, Mike! I’m going to look into getting some Plistix 900 now. I’m also going to continue researching refractory board.

Thank you everyone for the information you have made available here. It has been very helpful. I bought the single-burner Mr. Volcano forge after reading the information here. I brouhht the box up from the basement and started to put it together today. Right now, the “wool” insulation is drying off. I do have a question, though, about the satanite coating. As I understand it, I can use the provided coating, most likely without issue, since I’m only smithing part-time. I can also put on a “wash” of Plistex (or similar) over the satanite. My question is: could the satanite cement be replaced by a refractory board? If so, would that need to be coated as well? I saw another another gas forge, box-shaped instead of the pentagon, and it uses the soft “wool” and a solid board. I’m not sure if the board is coated with anything. It also has some sort of ceramic “shelf” on the floor of the forge. This got me thinking and doing research… which lead me to questions. Thanks in advance, everyone!

I finally found some free time to build my temporary-ish anvil stand — work and kids have kept me busy the past few months. I used kiln-dried Douglas fir 4x4 posts, 7/16-inch all thread going the long way and 1/2-inch carriage bolts the short way. The middle section, where the anvil will rest, is approximately 24-inches tall. I need to clean it up a little bit, but I think it will work while I figure out the details of my backyard “shop”.

Hahaha! No, I am going to do it just as you describe here: I saw a few like this online, and a Youtube video showing how to do it. Until I know what the home situation is going to be, I am afraid to sink anything into the ground for additional support. My wife and I have been talking about the possibility of moving because of her job, so there is a bit of uncertainty in the near future.

I measured out the base of my anvil: 9-1/8 inches long and 6-7/8 inches wide for the feet. There’s a slightly wider spot where the upsetting block is located. With an 80-pound anvil, I’d like a bit of mass below it which is why I’m looking for a stump or making something solid. If I go the wooden stand route, I’m going to use 2-by-12 lumber, line them up in a staggered pattern and use glue and screws to hold them together. I’ll also use bands at the top and bottom to keep it together and act as a base for some sort of tool-holding device. If I go for a metal stand, I’ll have a bit more work ahead of me for fabrication.

Your metal stand looks awesome, Frosty! I have to make sure that whatever I make fits in my shed. My “shop” is my back yard. I don’t have a garage or anything like that. I might be able to build a small shelter but it will be a dirt or gravel floor. If I want to put down a concrete pad and build on it, I have to file paperwork with the Township and deal with a zoning hearing.

Good evening, Frosty & George! Thanks for the replies. I’ll stay away from the treated stuff, and I think I’m going to revisit the idea of a metal stand.

Is using treated lumber, such as 4x4 or 6x6 posts, okay for building a stand? I have read that the treatments can cause corrosion with metals that are in contact with them.

I have to thank you all for making this information available. It’s been very helpful as I get started building my anvil stand. The plan, as it stands right now, is to use 4” x 6” posts to make a 12” x 18” “stump” that will be about 26 inches tall. I’ll post up a picture after I’ve got it built.

Thank you! Will do!

Thanks, SLAG! I have a neighbor down the street who does landscaping. I will ask him if he has one or can acquire one for me. I got my shipping notice from Holland Anvil. If all goes according to FedEx’s plan, I will have it in my possession on Friday. I also received my Mr. Volcano single-burner forge today. Slowly putting things together.

Good morning, George & SLAG! Right you are about the stand having a level surface, top and bottom. I also have to make sure that it stays level when I plant it in the ground, too. You brought up something I had not thought about, though: chemical treatment. I will leave the telephone pole chunks alone.

Good evening, Shainarue! After reading a bit here and doing some research, I guess you could say that Holland Anvil won! Hahaha! As I am planning it right now, the stand I want to build will most probably be 6x6 posts with a bit of angle iron to provide a footprint for the anvil to sit in and prevent it from slipping around. I found a large section of an old telephone pole at the local soccer fields, but it's heavy. Really heavy. I am going to take another look at it one day this week. I will post a picture or two once I get things set up.

Thank you, JHCC! I do not have access to a welder, but I can ask around to a few friends. I am planning on making a wooden stand because it will be easier for me to move and store when not in use.

Thank you, sir! I am planning on making my stand using lumber if I can't find a good stump.

I placed my order with Holland Anvil for their 80-pound double horn anvil.

njanvilman, where in NJ are you located? I’m in Bordentown — just south of Trenton, NJ.

Good evening, gentlemen! Thank you for the responses, they are very helpful. I was leaning towards the no-horn anvil because of cost; the fact that a lot of the mass is under the face; and, thinking I could purchase a mandrel to act as a horn. To Rojo Pedro: I am not interested in strictly bladesmithing. Would I make a knife at some point in the future? Eh, sure, but it is not my primary interest in blacksmithing. I have been finding that my interest in blacksmithing is in the tool making and other functional items, so if I did make a knife it would most probably be a chef's knife or something similar. At some point tomorrow, when I take a break from staring at spreadsheets, I am going to review the Holland Anvil website and look at their other available options.

I hope everyone is enjoying the approaching holiday season and that all is well. I have a question that will most probably give me differing answers based on various experience, but… … after doing a good bit of research and saving money, I am preparing to purchase an anvil and am torn between two. Both are from Holland Anvil. The first is the 68-pound Church Window hornless anvil and the other is the 80-pound double horn anvil. The question is, is a horn a necessity? I am getting a “lighter” anvil because my back yard forging area is not permanent and I’ll have to move things around easily/conveniently as needed. I’m also building an anvil stand, unless I find a good sized stump that I can roll into my yard. So… horned anvil or not to horned anvil, that is the question. Thank you, in advance!

I am. I have a small home station and I also have equipment for operating portable — usually at parks, etc., or while I’m out camping with the family.

Unfortunately, I was unable to attend because of some issues at home. I hope that it went well, though, and I’m going to keep a watch for the next one.

I received an email from Daniel Lapidow confirming the hammer in event. It will be from 10AM to 4PM tomorrow. I’m planning on going in the afternoon, after the boys’ soccer games.

I didn't think of it that way, Thomas. That makes sense now. As for the handle size, Glenn, it's whatever the folks at BS Depot put on. It "feels" good in my hand. I don't feel the need to squeeze it to hold on or anything like that. On the topic of anvils, though, I noticed that the Amazon vendor is a higher price than Vevor.com -- which is having a sale on some of the Acciaio anvils it offers. I need to talk to The CFO. Hahaha!

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen! The handle shape and size feels comfortable in my hand. The only odd thing about it is that the finish on it feels a little bit sticky, like it's not completely dried. Otherwise, no complaints.