M3F

So heres what i have so far...I removed those burners and put the set in that came with the forge. (Hell's Forge) I never get blow back or lines melting with them. I installed the thermocouple in the center through the side, level with where a billet would be. It reached 2300F with the 1st burner running. I'm waiting on a the mig tip for the second burner. The color showed lemon yellow almost white and difficult to look at. I was able to maintain that temp at 15psi with the choke wide open. If I closed it at all or reduced the psi the temp dropped. Throughout all these trials the scale was minimal. In the future I think I will purchase a 1 burner forced air or a 1 burner Chile Forge for forge welding and keep this one for longer blacksmithing type jobs. So my goal was reached but I have some questions to close this out. 1. What does that flame out indicate on a burner? 2. When the 2nd burner is running is it accurate to say the temp will increase over 2300F? Thank you again for all your input.

Ok. Next issue. What causes the burners to flame out at the burner tip up through the choke? And the brass fittings where the propane get so hot after shutdown it melts the lines.

Ok round 2... Full 20lb tank with psi at 25, chokes wide open produced a ton of scale. As I slowly closed them and watched the scale, brushed it off, and readjusted I found that just around 1/2 choke on the front burner and 3/4 on the rear burner the scale was at a minimal. With those settings the laser thermometer reached 2500F. (Again I don't trust it so the thermocouple is on order) It was a good lemon yellow bordering on white color that I could barely look at. After that I turned the psi down to 15 and the temp was 2300F. As far as the sound I really couldn't tell much of a difference. 20220818_074200.mp4 Listened to both videos. Now I hear a difference. Also does the Dragon's breath indicate anything with the results I've got? Thank you.

Isn't this considered a foundry? I'm no expert but I have a homemade one where I cast aluminum and brass. I think your walls are much too thin. You may want to chalk it up as a learning experience and re-lign it as well as the lid. I don't know if placing another layer over what you've done would work or not. The burner tip shouldn't go past your lining either, just pointed in one direction to create that swirl effect. Aluminum melts at 1221F, Brass at 1710F and Copper at 1984F.

Thank you I will try tuning that way, I believe I'm close to understanding the propane forge setup. I thought i was nuetral but what you said makes sense. I've done a small quantity of canisters and mild steel welds in my coal forge and that's it. The satanite mixture and ITC was purchased on Amazon from Mr. Volcano.

Hello all. I have not posted much so I apologize in advance if this isn't in the correct area. I'm xxxx bent on getting my propane forge to reach welding temp. The goal is to weld canisters and billets of 1084 w/15n20 which from what I've read is anywhere from 2100F to 2500F. Everyone seems to want to talk colors when i'm looking for temps. The forge has 2" of kaowool, 4 thin coats of satanite rigidizer, and 4 thin coats of ITC 100HT. All layers were properly cured before the next was applied and the burners tips are roughly 1" up into the lining. My laser thermometer read 2100F but I don't trust it's accuracy so a thermocouple is on order as well as a ceramic kiln shelf. I think I've done all I can and would like a critique. If this setup doesn't hit the temps I need the next step is either buy an efficient 1 burner forge like a Chile or buy an air blown forge. Again the goal is to weld 4-6" billets and canisters. In the 1st pic I'm running 9psi with about 3/4 choke and in the last 3 pics I'm running 20psi and about 1/2 choke. From what I understand this seems to give me what I think is a neutral flame and proper flame coming out the doors. Any input is appreciated. Thank you. 20220817_075819.mp4

JulianB that's impressive. That stake anvil is great. Here are mine.

It has a nice clear ring. Not ear piercing nor low and dull. I gather the hourglass is not Trenton exclusive then.

Hello from Buffalo, NY! This was my 1st anvil and it has served me well. I currently use a 306lb PW. I've studied AinA but am unsure if the hourglass base means 100% Trenton. There are absolutely zero visible markings. It's 152lbs.

According to AinA this looks like an early version of the logo. Without the serial number I couldn't give a specific year. Only a general 1900-1930. DWilliams35 can you post a pic of the front feet, or do you see a serial number there?

Hello. I've come to this site quite a few times for reference and I thought it's about time I become a member. I'm a blacksmith from the Buffalo NY area. I've been smithing for 5 years, am a member of the NYSDBA Niagara region, and a current ABANA member. There will be some growing pains as I learn how to post here but I'm looking forward to gaining/giving knowledge on this platform. I'll attempt to add some pics of my latest work.