Houjous

Thanks Frazer Higher the corrosion resistance the better. It will be around lots of citric fruits. Thanks for the heads up about the passivate! As for what I'm stabbing fruits and thin aluminum mostly.

Hey long time no see! Got hurt and had to put the blacksmithing stuff away for a while. I was not hurt from doing any blacksmithing and it was nothing major. I can't use the forge yet but I pulled out my grinder. I needed a little poker. I made one out of some random scraps I had but the point is a bit brittle enough to not grind it thinner. Do you guys know of a good stainless? It doesn't need to hold a point just not break from minor thumb pressure. I'm looking at a max 1.5mm point that holds for 3/4 an inch. Preferably one that doesn't need heat treating. Ps: yes I know I used two different measurement standards Edit: I forgot to mention I found 414 stainless on the internet as a good choice but I can't find anyone who sells it. So I'm at a loss.

Frosty The reason I asked about 4340 because a few sources suggested that was the best material for hammers. I figured 3-4 different webpages couldn't be wrong. dickb I understand that a hammer is a poor choice for a beginner. What I was trying to say was that my brother in law wanted to buy a nice piece of metal for me. I figured it would be best to look for something that even if i can't build now. It will be something that eventually make and I'll think of them every time i use it. I already have a plethora of scrap metal to practice on and he's adamant about giving me some stock. I'll take a look at some 1040 steel price thanks!

My brother in law wants to give me a nice piece of metal for Xmas. I settled on 4340 because when I'm good enough to use good metal I want my first project to be a hammer head. I would be looking to do a 1.5lbs-2lbs head but where ever I go to buy they want me to order a foot long minimum costing closer to $300. Realistically spending more than 60usd on the high end is too much money for that family. If 4340 is just going to be too expensive what would a good alternative be? Sorry if this is a repeat. Thanks for reading anyways.

Is there a decent place I can learn these details? I don't necessarily need to know exact information but a good overview would be super helpful. I know a little about carbon steel that in the 10xx number line xx is the carbon identity per .01. But I dont know the other elements and why they are good or bad. and i'll also reiterate i know this will not make me a better blacksmith, i just like knowing things.

Good to know! exciting news, Thanks!

Its a 112LB anvil, unknown brand, Farrier anvil style total 350USD.

good to know about the anvil thanks! and it seems that horseshoe clips are "guiders" to seat the horseshoe easier.

I'm looking to upgrade my anvil pretty soon - is this a good deal? Link to farriers anvil sale removed. it seems to be in good condition (but what do I know XD) Thanks!

Ok I've done enough searching that i found a style out of complete randomness: they look similar to links removed It has a offshoot on the anvil face at a hard 90degree turn leaving a bump of extra flat material.

Since I run it 20psi (my torches limit) which is only hitting 1650 at best...wouldn't lowering the pressure gauge lower the heat aswell?

ThomasPowers - I'm asking about the steel not to make me a "better smith" I just want to make sure im spending my money wisely on metal. If i want to sell quality knives i dont make them out of railroad spikes as an example.... Frosty - a year ago or less than 20 days ago...one of the two lol

I've seen the Beginners guide to anvils and all the brands that are currently still making anvils. Before I start looking at brand, I was wondering if there a shape guide. a 1:1 for almost ever style that is out there. I bought a cheap Amazon and the face is dented pretty badly after 1 use ( only think i directly hit it once.) like ive seen a nice 2 step down to the horn on one anvil so it went face plate > step down > another stepdown to anvil) I want to see if there are other unique designs that I would like more than the London Pattern Anvil. Thanks!

degree F if it was the other 2, they would be liquid

Thanks for the Suggestions I'll make sure my next purchase will be atleast 1/4". I'm not super sure my forge can do forge welding. It max's out at around 1650.