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I Forge Iron


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  1. Houjous


    thanks for the tips i also found this wiki page that is useful: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
  2. Houjous


    Forgive me for both asking to many question and also if this post was previously posted. The topic pages I saw tagged at the top and the what I looked through the user made topics and found nothing. is there a webpage or book or .xls sheet giving metallurgy information about steel definitions not just the if it's an alloy or aluminum etc but like whats the difference between 1095 and 1084 or why I want spring steel over high carbon or mid carbon. I figure that I can start learning how to blacksmith by making my tools. I'm starting with a hammer because I want a lighter one. I was going to do one steel because the vender I was using from my last purchase only had one flavor of steel and after 15-20 minutes of searching to see if it was a good steel they said it was a bad choice.
  3. Thank you for the help thus far. I am using Propane for the question of what fuel source I am using. As for the tip "crack" thank you for informing me that it was just a "cold shutcold." I'll keep working the blade then till it disappears. for the tang that doesn't want to forge. I keep the tang in the center most heat. So it being hotter on one side than the other doesn't make sense. I'm looking into the A.B.A.N.A. now. As for the reason I know the temp of the metal and forge because I bought a laser thermometer that works up to 3000 degrees F. the forge's burner maxes out at 1500.
  4. clickbaity title I apologize but - I just bought into Blacksmithing and I got a few bars of 1.5x12x.125 1095. I can get the forge to around 1400-1500 degrees at the max but two things are confusing me. I have made a blade before several years ago under an eye of an master and but I think it was 1084. Recreating the steps I remember plus what I have seen on youtube things aren't working correctly. When I forge the tip of what will become a blade - the "top" and "bottom" of the side edge doesn't want to forge together so it looks like I have a crack going down the center of the tip. the second issue that arose was when I was attempting to forge out the tang. I got it as hot as my forge allowed put the bar on the side of the anvil and wacked it. the side that was still on the anvil didn't even compress a little. I made more of a dent with the hammer than the anvil did to the bar. Thanks for any responses
  5. so similar to your drawing. there will be 7 rods on the y axis and 7 rods on the x axis. rod 2 and 6 will not complete the distance and bend down to make the feet between the 6th and 7th rod and 1st and 2nd rod. if that makes more sense. so the drawing would look like every rod in the y axis would have 7 drifted holes in it for all of the x axis rods can cross unblocked. the legs will be between the drifted holes of the second most outer rods on the x axis so the beginning and end of rod 2 and 6. hopefully this makes more sense.
  6. So the build will be a 7 inch by 7 inch trivet with every inch a punch and drifted hole for the bisecting rod to go through. I think I'll be bending the feet in from the rods that are closest to the corners that aren't part of the parameter. I might end up welding feet on depending on what it looks like
  7. monkey tool? what do you mean isnt that a wrench? you are correct i meant 7 inches. ill have to look at a torch.
  8. I have designed a 7' x 7' trivet that bisect ever inch not above or below the two 1/4' rods but through each other. The only thing I cant figure how to do is heat up the drifted hole to smoosh the other rod into place and even out the top of the bumps so its flat and even or if there even a better way to hold the rods in place. thanks
  9. Hey I'm Bryan this is my second post; didn't introduce myself last time and slowly getting myself into blacksmithing. I made a knife with a master blacksmith several years ago and decided dive into last week to after my health declined. I've looked at craigslist, ebay and craigslist trying to find tools used but can't find any in realistic prices. As I do not know desirable brands or designer brands yet I can't justify paying 40 dollars for a hammer what I can find for 10 dollars and 1-2 hours of modifications. I am looking at the gambit for tools from power tools to hand aswell as some tongs. Right now I have a 4lbs and 2lbs hammer both crosspein hammers, a passible anvil and forge, unfortunate tongs and a nice old tabled mounted vice. I would like a bigger arrangement of hammers, im already starting to look at powertools such as a mig welder, tabletop grinder and any other suggestions you have that a noobie should have. Thanks
  10. Sorry if this has already been asked - I didn't see anything about this. Where do you buy metal. I am in northern CT. Both from junk yards and new metal locations would be great. Thanks.
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