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I Forge Iron

Houjous

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Everything posted by Houjous

  1. Thanks Frazer Higher the corrosion resistance the better. It will be around lots of citric fruits. Thanks for the heads up about the passivate! As for what I'm stabbing fruits and thin aluminum mostly.
  2. Hey long time no see! Got hurt and had to put the blacksmithing stuff away for a while. I was not hurt from doing any blacksmithing and it was nothing major. I can't use the forge yet but I pulled out my grinder. I needed a little poker. I made one out of some random scraps I had but the point is a bit brittle enough to not grind it thinner. Do you guys know of a good stainless? It doesn't need to hold a point just not break from minor thumb pressure. I'm looking at a max 1.5mm point that holds for 3/4 an inch. Preferably one that doesn't need heat treating. Ps: yes I know I used two different measurement standards Edit: I forgot to mention I found 414 stainless on the internet as a good choice but I can't find anyone who sells it. So I'm at a loss.
  3. Frosty The reason I asked about 4340 because a few sources suggested that was the best material for hammers. I figured 3-4 different webpages couldn't be wrong. dickb I understand that a hammer is a poor choice for a beginner. What I was trying to say was that my brother in law wanted to buy a nice piece of metal for me. I figured it would be best to look for something that even if i can't build now. It will be something that eventually make and I'll think of them every time i use it. I already have a plethora of scrap metal to practice on and he's adamant about giving me some stock. I'll take a look at some 1040 steel price thanks!
  4. My brother in law wants to give me a nice piece of metal for Xmas. I settled on 4340 because when I'm good enough to use good metal I want my first project to be a hammer head. I would be looking to do a 1.5lbs-2lbs head but where ever I go to buy they want me to order a foot long minimum costing closer to $300. Realistically spending more than 60usd on the high end is too much money for that family. If 4340 is just going to be too expensive what would a good alternative be? Sorry if this is a repeat. Thanks for reading anyways.
  5. Houjous

    metallurgy

    Is there a decent place I can learn these details? I don't necessarily need to know exact information but a good overview would be super helpful. I know a little about carbon steel that in the 10xx number line xx is the carbon identity per .01. But I dont know the other elements and why they are good or bad. and i'll also reiterate i know this will not make me a better blacksmith, i just like knowing things.
  6. Its a 112LB anvil, unknown brand, Farrier anvil style total 350USD.
  7. good to know about the anvil thanks! and it seems that horseshoe clips are "guiders" to seat the horseshoe easier.
  8. I'm looking to upgrade my anvil pretty soon - is this a good deal? Link to farriers anvil sale removed. it seems to be in good condition (but what do I know XD) Thanks!
  9. Ok I've done enough searching that i found a style out of complete randomness: they look similar to links removed It has a offshoot on the anvil face at a hard 90degree turn leaving a bump of extra flat material.
  10. Since I run it 20psi (my torches limit) which is only hitting 1650 at best...wouldn't lowering the pressure gauge lower the heat aswell?
  11. Houjous

    metallurgy

    ThomasPowers - I'm asking about the steel not to make me a "better smith" I just want to make sure im spending my money wisely on metal. If i want to sell quality knives i dont make them out of railroad spikes as an example.... Frosty - a year ago or less than 20 days ago...one of the two lol
  12. I've seen the Beginners guide to anvils and all the brands that are currently still making anvils. Before I start looking at brand, I was wondering if there a shape guide. a 1:1 for almost ever style that is out there. I bought a cheap Amazon and the face is dented pretty badly after 1 use ( only think i directly hit it once.) like ive seen a nice 2 step down to the horn on one anvil so it went face plate > step down > another stepdown to anvil) I want to see if there are other unique designs that I would like more than the London Pattern Anvil. Thanks!
  13. degree F if it was the other 2, they would be liquid
  14. Thanks for the Suggestions I'll make sure my next purchase will be atleast 1/4". I'm not super sure my forge can do forge welding. It max's out at around 1650.
  15. fair enough. (12" = x, 1.5" =y, .125" = z) I was intending to make the Y the same distance, X was going to drop to 4" or so, and Z becomes to thin while I'm forming the blade. beyond those statements I'm not sure what sizes your still looking for.
  16. I bought a few blanks (12"x1.5"x.125") the other day to make a knives just to find out I run out of material super quick when drawing out the blade. What would a good size blank should I start with? Also any ideas what I should use these blanks for?
  17. Houjous

    metallurgy

    Frosty na you weren't harsh. but rereading it just to catch myself up on the chain and I do have a question. Is there a reason to not use an high carbon steel or spring steel? secondly is there a difference between types in high carbon steel and spring steel? or as long as it says high carbon or spring steel it doesn't matter.
  18. It will be a ballpoint pen. I'm going to steal internals of a replaceable ink cartrage. It will be 3 pieces, the top which screws into the base and then the cap which will hold by friction. I was thinking a 5-7 degree taper from the center of the pen to the tip.`
  19. I made a post that had links to videos which gave instructions how to build a pen im trying to recreate. A video I do not have connection with. But it was taking down; (due to unauthorized advertising) so I'll give you as limited information as I can. I want to make a pen but dont have a lathe. need tips. it will need to have a screw top. need suggestions. i have limited tools
  20. I found this series (linked below) And thought it would be a neat idea to make a series of pens with Mokume Gane. Ive collected the quarters that will be sacrificed but I've hit fatal issue. The videos linked below show himself building the pen off a lathe. I do not have such a tool. What would the best method to correctly form the body of the pens? edit: also I do plan on setting their birthstones on the pen clip hints on how to set gems would also be good! Thanks! Link removed due to advertising Link removed due to advertising Link removed due to advertising
  21. Houjous

    metallurgy

    Frosty:Thank you! That gives me relief. I have the mind of researching everything i possibly can and when I search the web I often see people say "never use X only use Y for making Z." Because I have a very limited budget I want to use the best cost effect material I can that I wont regret later.
  22. Houjous

    metallurgy

    thanks for the tips i also found this wiki page that is useful: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
  23. Houjous

    metallurgy

    Forgive me for both asking to many question and also if this post was previously posted. The topic pages I saw tagged at the top and the what I looked through the user made topics and found nothing. is there a webpage or book or .xls sheet giving metallurgy information about steel definitions not just the if it's an alloy or aluminum etc but like whats the difference between 1095 and 1084 or why I want spring steel over high carbon or mid carbon. I figure that I can start learning how to blacksmith by making my tools. I'm starting with a hammer because I want a lighter one. I was going to do one steel because the vender I was using from my last purchase only had one flavor of steel and after 15-20 minutes of searching to see if it was a good steel they said it was a bad choice.
  24. Thank you for the help thus far. I am using Propane for the question of what fuel source I am using. As for the tip "crack" thank you for informing me that it was just a "cold shutcold." I'll keep working the blade then till it disappears. for the tang that doesn't want to forge. I keep the tang in the center most heat. So it being hotter on one side than the other doesn't make sense. I'm looking into the A.B.A.N.A. now. As for the reason I know the temp of the metal and forge because I bought a laser thermometer that works up to 3000 degrees F. the forge's burner maxes out at 1500.
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