jfifft

Thanks Everyone!

I hope this is in the right spot. I am looking into getting a Respirator with a full face shield to protect both my lungs and eyes at the same time while I am grinding on the 2 x 72. Any recommendations on a brand or model? I was looking at North or honeywell brand but none seem to be made for Grinding. I worry the full face shield may not be replaceable. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Everyone!

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

I am in the market for a new angle grinder for fabrication projects around the shop. I only need it for cutting. I have some 4 1/2" Dewalts that do the trick for everything else but I would like something real durable with a lot more cutting power. What do you guys recommend? Should I go 5", 6", 7"? Metabo? Any experience or advice is appreciated.

Thanks a bunch for the advice! The small tack weld is a great idea. I think that would do the trick!

I have an Adams #2 Fly press that I got a few years ago (second hand). When I got it I took it apart so I could thoroughly clean everything and inspect for any damage. I noticed right away that there is one tine ¼ - 20 screw is all that is left holding mystery part A that is attached to the main thread (with one Allen head screw that I cannot remove) to mystery Part B that is attached to the ram with two push pins. Well when new both mystery parts A and B would thread together before you tightened the ¼ - 20 set screw. Well, over the years and previous owners the threading on both parts is gone so the only thing that holds the ram to the main thread is the ¼ - 20 set screw. Well now that no longer works and the ram drops free. 1. Does anyone know how to fix the press without having to have a machinist remake both Mystery parts?

Thank you both! I will post the results in a few days.

Thanks Jim, Is this the same thing as the drivers that you hit with a hammer and that converts the torque or is it air powered?

Thanks Jim, I am working on getting theat stubborn allen scrw out. I have tried tapping it gently with a hammer, adding some heat and soaking it for a few days in a cup of liquid wrench, but no matter what I do it won't budge clockwise or counter clockwise. If I cant get it off I will have to come up with another solution.

Thanks a bunch, I noticed a tapered Allen head screw at the end of the lead screw (see pic 2). I tried to remove it but it is locked on solid. It seems it has to be removed before the screw will come out of the press body. I might try to add a little heat to the screw to get it moving.

Hello, I have a Adams Fly Press #2 or #3 (guessing by the size) that I have been using for quite some time with no issues, that is until the other day when the rap dropped free from the shaft. I stopped and took the press apart (which is something I have never done) and it showed the threaded insert that is pressed and pinned in the ram as well as the end of the lead screw both have messed up threads. Does anyone have a good solution to fix the problem other than machining new parts? Thanks in advance!

Thanks everyone, I do the same theing with the 1" bolts. I have a ton of tools made so far and I have made a table with adjustable fence that I can bolt my bottom tooling to.

And a few others. Can anyone give me some history on the press or its age?

Here is an attempt at a photo of the painted press.

Thanks everyone for your help! I have her painted and up and running. I plan to post some pictures one I figure out how!

Thanks Everyone! Here are some pictures before I removed the tool.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I could not get any of it to work so I had to remove the ram and pound it out. It was wedged in there 20 thousandths. All good now. 1. Any Idea of the history or age of the press? 2. What do I iol / grease it with?

I was lucky to find a used Adams Fly Press with the stand (#2 or #3 by the size I guess) in great shape. I was cleaning it up and I had some questions that I was needing wisdom on. 1. How do I get the last owners no shoulder tool holder out of the ram. It is wedged and galled in there even after I removed the set serews. 2. How do I restore the press? Do I even need to? The grease is kind of old, so I thought about removing it all and replacing it. I Thank you all in advance!

Thanks Frosty, They come apart after I use them. I never knew there was a right way to mount them I the stuck them on. I'll look for the arrows!!!!

Thanks for the replies and good advice everyone!

I hope this is the correct area to post this. I have some 2" x 72" sanding and buffing belts that have never been used and I noticed the seams are breaking. Some are the expensive scotchbrite type (not 3M) type. It would seem (no pun) one could re tape them or something. Has anyone done this before or know what to use? Thanks in advance.

Thanks For all the help Guys! It does have a 1 1/2" shank tool holder. The tool that came with it has drilled and tapped holes for fastening tooling in. The bottom bolster plate came off, all 45 lbs. of it to reveal a 4" x 7" ole in the frame under the ram. Once I make a stand I should be good to go.

Thanks for all of your help guys. I picked up the press finally yesterday. It weighs 700 LBS! So much for the "2" on the side. I do have two questions though. 1. How do I make the Stop blocks or kiss blocks mentioned earlier in the post? How do they work? 2. The stand that came with the press was dry rotted so it ended up in the trash. Do you think a stand can be made with treated lumber that will be safe? Are there any specs or plans or anything? A store bought stand is too spendy for me right now. Thanks Again!

Thanks Everyone, They are asking $500 for it I may offer a bit less and see if they bite. It is local so I will go see it next week for a close look. What are the other ways around not having a stop nut?