Pat Masterson

Wow Twistedhollow that looks awesome man. I want to get my coal bbq forge up and running so badly but just haven’t had time. I’ve got it filled in with vermiculite and then a 2” or so layer of clayish dirt on top with a rotor as the fire pot. Considering welding up a traditional looking fire pot or buying one with my next bonus. Not sure but I really want the advantages of having both coal and propane. Got some goodies today. Iron mountain flux - from Amazon so I hope it’s not fake stuff and the three piece drift set. I don’t know if they’ve got paint on them or what but they definitely need a good dressing down - maybe a worn out flap disk to smooth everything out. And then two h13 slitting chisels and assorted 1/4” and 3/16” rivets from blacksmith depot. This thin slitting chisel is awesome and is what I picture when I think of a slitting chisel. The other doubles as kind of a drift I believe. But the the real reason for the post is I have to give a shout-out to Cathy. Somehow I double ordered the chisels so I had two of each coming. Cathy Kayne who I believe is one if the owners went way over the top to get in touch me with me to see if this was a mistake. First she called me and I saw a NC number so I figured it was one of the xxxxxxxx robot calls I get every day and sent it straight to voicemail. She emailed and it went to my spam file. Finally she tried calling again and bc I saw it was the same number I picked up and she explained why she was calling. She could’ve just let it go and had an extra 60$ worth of tools sold - because I can tell you now even though I absolutely do not need two of each of these I would’ve kept them bc I’m a tool junky but instead she made sure I only paid for what I actually wanted and refunded me for the two extra chisels. I think it is a little over priced but I’ve never been disappointed with a purchase. This honestly and effort was just the icing on the cake - great shop, great people.

Yeah - I said “ruined” but that was just bc I was mad that I was so close and then messed it up. Plus at the point I had already pretty much completely finished the first one and really liked the way it came out - so again my biggest problem came back to bite me - consistency. I got most of the brazing off yesterday so now it’s just a matter of deciding what process to go with. Macleod that bottle opener is really awesome. Same for those bowls JHCC - really cool.

Almost got it done with it in the forge but I got over zealous because the stamen thing in the middle wasn’t in the right position and then I ruined it. I’m done for the day. When I start getting this tired I create monstrosities like you see below. I might just clean it up and weld it in the morning. Not sure. Thanks for all the advice though guys. As for the first one I think I got just barely lucky enough bc it held up to putting my touchmark in (brand new custom one - I have to get a soft face hammer to set it deeper but I couldn’t wait to try it, putting a couple bends in the stem, wire wheeling everything, blackening and brass brushing and paste wax finish so I think it’s going to be ok. These are going in my cousins display case and not moving from it.

Ok it’s ugly but maybe I did something right…I was able to file it and only one little piece came off. The. I applied more force to this this then its ever gna see and it’s didn’t budge

amazing again Alexandr. Billy and Frosty I need help lol. Is my mapp torch just not getting hot enough? Everything is getting to a dull orange but pieces of the rod just break off. I’ve tried heating from underneath and on top. Same results. I have a fresh mapp bottle I can try but if it’s getting almost orange it seems heat isn’t the issue. I wire wheeled scale off then scuffed up with some 120 grit before trying. I can do a couple tack welds if this doesn’t work i but I really wanted to try something I hadn’t done before plus I suck at regular welding too

Lol. Nows theres an image iron Bill and Frosty assuming brazing is a perfectly legit way to join these two piece otherwise one of you wouldn have mentioned that lol

Nice knife - what’s the handle material? Folding handle for the skillet is pretty clever lol I like that. My cousin is making some kind of display in one of the corners of his apartment. I didn’t get details of exactly what but he asked for two forged poppy flowers. Black Bear Forge once again had an awesome video on it. I didn’t use the links he had for patterns - I kinda of just free handed onto some 1/8” plate and went for it. Probably should’ve used the pattern. Been having fun with these though. Got the first one almost totally forged. I have to do some clean up and more upsetting on the middle part - called a stamen I believe. I wanted to do a couple leaves on the stems but the pics I’ve found show leaves that look very complicated so I might just leave the stems alone. A while back I also got a couple of what I think are some kind of bushings from work. I cut one in half and was planning to use as drawing dies for the log splitter press but instead I threw one half in the forge and closed it a bit to substitute John Switzers awesome swage block. I used it in the vise and it worked great to put some curves in the petals so now I’m thinking about keeping the other half the original size and welding some hardy shanks on them to use at the anvil or make using at the vise easier. Not really happy with the texture of the petals but I think once there all put together, cleaned up and have a little brass brush going they’ll look ok. I found some bernzomatic brazing rods - was thinking about trying to use them to connect the stem and petals but I’ve never brazed before. I’m assuming that bernzomatic brand brazing rods can we be used with a bernzomatic mail torch. And my custom touchmark is supposed to arrive today - so excited. I really need a good hot cut. I have so much trouble deciding on which tools to buy when there’s 25 different good choices for one single tool. Right now I improvise with this giant chisel haha but it works.

Ok…Thanks guys

Hey guys. Seems like they same product is on multiple sites - like, Amazon, eBay etc - all described basically the same same way as large tomahawk & hammer/ mouse ax drift and made from ductile iron. My anvil is ductile iron and I love it but they’ll never be a time I’m quenching it lol - I did some reading on if you can quench when using as a drift and I seem to be getting varying answers….if I’m drifting with this and using it as a handle to work cheeks and all that can I quench them off? If not at a red heat then once it shows no color whatsoever?

I always forget about that. Sorry guys. Thanks for posting something though. Much appreciated.

Hey guys - so I’ve got some forge welding to knock out this weekend but the 20 Mule Team Borax is so very slippery. Now I learned last week that I was using way too much but even after cutting way down on the use it’s still slippery stuff. I know other fluxes like that Iron Mountain stuff is supposed to be much “stickier” for lack of a better word. I’ll definitely be ordering some of that but for this weekend I was wondering if anyone has had this same issue and has come up with any homemade flux brews of 20 Mule Team mixed with something else I can easily grab at a store or something that will help with the issue I’m having. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Congrats Fire Plus Bird. I would do awful terrible things to get my hands on any decent 2x72. (Not really but ya know what I mean)

Thanks for the responses guys. They’re both definitely benchtop woodworking units as they came from woodworkers shops so I knew that. But since the craftsman said the lowest speed (600) was good for steel I assumed 600 was ok. I would’ve never thought the proper speeds for steel were as low as 180. I guess they put that on the craftsman to sell more of them lol. But I have drilled plenty of holes in ate l with the craftsman. Unfortunately selling both isn’t an option as whichever one I decide I don’t want I’m giving to another uncle who would be working strictly with wood. Pnuts suggestion makes most sense I guess.

Ok guys I need some drill press help. I was able to make a second run at my late uncles tools and grabbed the drill press so now I have two but can only keep one. Found some more cool stuff too but we’ll talk about that later. I’m trying to figure out if my late grandfathers or my late uncles will be better for the work I’m doing - obviously steel. Now the inside of the craftsman has the lay out for the pulleys and it says 620 spindle speed for steel but what I’ve read, if read correctly, that’s still too fast for steel. Remember I’ll be drilling 1/2” holes at the absolutely max most likely. The older delta doesn’t have the materials listed for each speed but it’s literally the exact same spindle speed setting list. Delta says 1/4hp but I don’t see a hp listed on the craftsman. both say 60hz but that’s basically jiberish to me. Some other things to consider: 1. the craftsman needs a little tlc. There’s a threaded part on the opposite side of the handles you pull down on to drill that’s rubbing on some kind of linkage and makes it so the up and down operation is not as smooth as it should be (can anyone tell I know nothing about drill presses yet?) but I believe I could fix this 2. the delta has the automatic table operation to bring it up and down which is nice and a light on it, also nice 3. I couldn’t find the chuck key for the delta but I’m assuming I could buy some kind of universal one? 4. The delta has somE kind of attachment that was bought as an aftermarket piece can’t believe I don’t have a pic but it basically bolts to the table and extends it and has a built in fence so if you want to run something across and keep it square this would do that. Mostly for word working but i believe it could come in handy one day - I could probably even line it with thing plate steel to make it more useful. As I said I can’t keep both so I’m looking for an opinion on which some of you guys would keep with all those things considered and also assuming everything else works correctly. Thanks

Yeah I though I stated the dimensions before but I could definitely be wrong. It’s 3/8” with about a 6” twist

Lol I’m not a high brow kinda guy but good call. Ok guys wish me luck. Poker has to ship today or it will be considered late. I’ve got the four piece basket bundle finally welded to the shaft. There is a spot that’s thinner than I wouldve liked but it is ok. Going to follow John Switzers steps from Black Bear Forge on you tube for the rest. Draw out the other end of the bundle to a taper so it ready to be made into the hook .then do the twist with the twisting wrench on that taper for the hook make the hook selectively cool the hook and do the untwist from that end Get all of that mostly in line and cooled then pray to god I cut it to the correct size so that when I do the forge weld for the poking end I end up with the around the right length then put the twist in the middle with John didn’t do but that’s fine I really like that part and it’s relatively low risk

Ok. Thanks Billy. That’s kind of what I was hoping considering I gave an approximate length in the add for the this product anyway but figured it was at least worth asking.

Dharris that looks awesome. And really nice tongs Michael. I’ve got a question - does anyone know how much twisting square bar will shorten it? I mean, it does shorten it right lol? But the twist in the middle of this fire poker for example? Any educated guesses on how much it shortened? Overall length of the whole poker is about 34”. Thanks in advance for any answers.

Thanks Das.

And just realized it’s supposed to rain tomorrow. It just keeps getting better.

Yeah - agreed guys. Will start over. also learned a few things yesterday. 1. Was using way too much flux. 2. Only needed any flux at all about half of the times I used it. 3. I made swages a while back that were two square bars - a v swage I guess you’d call it. Made two different sizes - one with 3/8 and one with 1/2” and although I did pull off quite a few forge welds using them to make little basket twist Christmas ornaments they were definitely hindering me. Found it much easier to just square off the end and weld each side little by little on the flat of of the anvil. I imagine a round swage would work better. I did upset the end before trying to weld and I know I also don’t yet know how to make scarfs that compliment each other when trying to weld. I just don’t understand why getting them to stick inside the forge worked so well the first and then just not at all the second time. Had I tried that earlier with the first attempt I would’ve been good. Probably going to take off work tomorrow to try to get this done. I’ve been totally upfront with the customer and he seems very understanding and said he’d be patient but I really don’t want my first sale to be late. Tonight I got myself set up to start up over early in the morning so hopefully things will go my way.

Ok guys normally I go through and read a few pages and ask questions about peoples work and compliment your stuff but please excuse for me for not doing that - I’ve had a terribly stressful last five days. So I finally got my Etsy shop going. My family crest has a knights helmet so the logo is a cool knight helmet with the M I’ve been using as a touchmark already included. It’s really cool - at least I think so. The name is MidKnightForge on Etsy in case any one wants to check it out. Anyway 2/9 was my bday and I hate bdays for personal reasons I won’t go into but I’m driving home and I get an alert that I made my first sale. What are the chances and it was like only a month after I started the shop and on that day - finally a bday I enjoyed a little. So the item bought was the basket twist fire poker. Now I wouldn’t say when I made it for my stepdad as a Christmas gift it was easy but it went pretty smooth and I think I made a really nice piece. The picture of that one will be obvious. But now I am having so much trouble getting the basket twist forge welded to the shaft. Drop the tongs weld was just not working for me so I came up with what I thought was a great idea. The forge has two sides so I put the basket twist part in from one side and the shaft in from the and when they were both up to heat I stuck them together, pulled them out for a couple lite taps to set the weld - normal forge welding procedures from there. Worked great. But by the time I had figured that out where the basket twist and shaft meet was just too thin. That’s the pics with the red x’s. So then I said ok no problem - tack welded up another set of small bars for the basket twist and tried the same thing - would not stick no matter what I did. So then I cheated and tack welded the basket bundle to the shaft and then forge welded and got most of the way there. But now again I have a section towards the meeting point that is just a tad too thin and I’m looking for a way to save it. I’d like to just weld in there and build up weld then blend with a grinder but I’m not good enough at welding to do that. I’m also thinking maybe take a piece of thinner bar and tack weld it into the thin spot that has the gap. You’ll see what I mean in the pic with the yellow circle. No red xs or yellow circles is the other side of the one with the yellow circle which I can shape to look ok with a little work. Please give me some advice here. I really really don’t want to have to refund my first customer for not being able to complete his item. Thanks.

Ok 3 different times I thought I figured out how that tool worked…4th times a charm though, pretty sure I got it now - thanks Billy. JHCC is that gas forge homemade?