Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About matthewfromers

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello to you all! I've realize this little new friend from a forge weld test, and it look quite good to use! I will spend much more time sharpening it with some stone!
  2. Thank you very much Jlp! I made a little outline based on what you told me, to get a clearer idea of the concept, to see if I understood the above and why I like to do drawings Can the areas I highlighted be considered consistent? Considering of course that they can change based on how much air is blown inside. Thanks for your support, Matthew
  3. Dear Jlp, regarding the bellows, I chose to use all reclaimed woods that I already had and I was not very attentive to the traditional method of construction. I made something definitely solid but certainly not original. For the seal on the piston I used an old soft carpet that resembles a fur coat and keeps it greased with Vaseline! It works very well as a system! I thank you for the suggestions and I will try to better test my results, for now, a small first experiment is this spear plane that I have finished and I must say, that there are no traces of delamination and cuts the hair of the arm very well!
  4. Dear Jlp, I really appreciated your explanation is very clear and I will treasure it for the next times! I'm trying to learn a lot what the forge "expresses" during the runs. The color of the flames, the type of sparks, the noises. In addition to being all very fascinating it is very important, in my opinion, to become familiar with the forge and bellows. The bellows, among other things, allow me a lot of air and flow control. Place some photos. I feel very good about it and I think that this guy (fuigo Japanese), increases the feeling with the fire. It is very difficult for me to understand the color of the package when it is well covered with coal. I'm always afraid of overheating and I often try to control it. Thanks again! Matthew
  5. very kind Thomas, I'm trying to figure out how to control the atmosphere of my coal forge (side turkeye, Japanese style) trying to keep the packets above the air inlet with a good quantity of pieces of coal on top to cover the all. Any other advice about it? I really appreciate the support from you all. Many thanks to all. Matthew
  6. There's a little line between the two pieces of w1, I didn't find out anything about that on line, it looks like good forge welding and there's not any sign of delamination. It is normal?
  7. Wooow it look great! It's a full flat grind with a microbevel? Amazing work! Love the handle!
  8. Hello guys! And thanks for all your advice! I see that I've a lot of work about forge welding! On saturday I run my forge and japanese bellow with the purpose to make some other forge welding, after all you advice. First of all I've choose more compatible material w1 with iron and 1070 with iron. The result this time are for shure better and I didn't have any delamination. I show my result: I'm happy about that, I guess that I've learn a little something more! The "scarf fact" open up a world to me and I'm very happy about that! In one of the forge weld I stumbled in some cracked small area, almost certainly caused by the excessive temperature, (the packet coming out of the forge threw out little stars), and I think that this problem depended precisely on this fact. Should I learn to recognize the temperature just below the melting temperature and weld to it, to avoid this? Another question that intrigued me a lot was, how long can a package be for effective welding? It could be possible (using hammer and anvil) forge weld at 6 inches x 1.5 inches? I'd like to get a material ready to be turned into a knife. Thanks again to you all, have a nice day! Matthew
  9. Yes sorry, my fault! Vercelli! I'm living in a near small plase near by Vercelli! Woah! Amazing trip anyway! Vercelli it's really famous for the rice coultivation!
  10. Oh Fabriano! I know that area! I'm living in Cercelli north-west of Italy it's between Turin and Milan. And il looks like Iowa. ahahahah Thanks for the support man!
  11. Dear anvil, do you mean some thing like that in your forge process (in this case of course): Do you mean something like this Frosty? Yes I think that could be a risk! I'll try! Thanks you all for the support!
  12. Dear Pnut, I see the pdf and it's really interesting! Thanks for all the advice Dear Jlp, I've understand what a scarf should be! so basicly this is what I've done, weld a piece of w1 on a bar of iron, without any scarf or preparation area, cut in alf and the "transition area" it's, of course still visible. if I have correctly understood how kindly you have exposed me, in my specific case, what I should do is something like this: this should prevent the formation of this "step" or "transition area". Am I right? Thanks you ALL for the post and the knowledge that you 're sharing. Matthew
  13. Dear Steve, thank you a lot! I would try to forge it! But for shure I will try with a better and more known starting material! My fault, yes I didn't start from ore, as you said, this cannot be called "bloom" Yes, this should be a most correct term, I've been ispired also from a book of Yoshindo Yoshihara, that describe the process. Thank you all for the support. Matthew
  • Create New...