Randy Griffin

56 minutes ago, natkova said:

You loose space .

I can see that.

I have a large area in the back for a lot of stuff. All the forging, grinding and cutting is done there. This part is only for knives. Design and assembly, tempering, fine tuning, leather work, sanding and polishing. I can’t stand for long so everything I do I must be sitting and so far this has been the best for me. A few things I will change but overall it works. 

On 1/31/2023 at 8:58 AM, natkova said:

I had that U shape workbench design before, there are pros and cons to that.

I love mine. What are the cons?

Yes. Pretty much. Everything has its place and I’m one that when I finish using a tool I reach and put it back in its spot.

My work table wraps all the way around my shop.

Saw this at a friends shop today. Is it a William Foster and is it normal for the last name to be stamped first?

Well, I’ve been away for a while and looks like I missed a lot. So sorry for the misfortune you’ve had these last few months Thomas. I’m glad to see you doing as well as you are. Don’t give up yet. God still works miracles. I’ll be praying for one.

God bless you.

I second high temp at quench. That grain is huge. Try normalizing at a lower temp and quench just above non mag.

Creosote. Termites ate the last two hardwood stumps I had.

Hi Jack. I’m in south Alabama and a knife will rust lying on a counter top. I use mineral oil. It’s food safe and makes the wood handle shine like new money. You need to treat it every time you use it and from time to time when not in use. Post a picture. I love looking at knives.

Sure. Here you go.

My latest. Kind of like a honesuki. Single bevel. I made it to see how well it will work for slicing. So far I like it. I tapered the Wa handle 1/16” to nothing. It feels great in the hand. Saya is poplar.

Didn’t follow me home. More like it just showed up. Friend gave me this bandsaw. It needed some work. Got some tires for it and a new, wider blade, cleaned it up and she runs good. Sluggish starting so I ordered bearings for the pulleys. I’m impressed the way it cuts.

I’ve been making knives from industrial size band saw blades lately and found if I’m careful not to overheat the metal when cutting and grinding, I don’t have to heat treat the blade. It’s perfect as is for some kitchen knives. I found a handful of solid carbide bits in a junk store for 2 bucks. They drill the holes just fine.

Well if you quenched it twice in water, 1700 the first time, and then anealed it, you now have some soft micro fractures and oversized soft grain. If you want to make the shaft, machine it yourself and send it somewhere to be hardened correctly.

Small paring knife for my cousin. 3 1/2” blade, black walnut handle and poplar saya.

I’ll get some pictures and post here. I’ll be there again next week.

Njanvilman, I recently ran across a fisher looking anvil, almost exactly like the pic above, only, there were no markings and very little rebound. Maybe 40-50%. A very discernible weld around the waist. Are there fakes out there? I passed on it but I noticed last week the guy still has it in his store.

How about lard. Pork fat rules you know.

And if your lips get chapped, you ain’t eating enough coon and possum.

Corn hustlers lotion. I’ve never used it but know people that swear by it.

try mineral oil. It’s good for everything else. 

Regular old canola oil is the good stuff. Unless you use some of the more exotic steels all you need is canola oil and water.

How thick is the material you’re drilling. If it’s real thin just clamp it on top of some thicker material. With me, if the drill point is longer than the material is thick it will drill a three sided hole. Clamping the pieces together adds thickness and you get a round hole.

More like just showed up at my house. 
A friend that owns a sawmill dropped these off today. Said I could have all I want.

It’s one of the better anvils out there. That one is in exceptional condition. If the rebound and ring is good, I’d give as much as $5/lb. That’s top dollar for me.