AdamTheSaint

Members
  • Content Count

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AdamTheSaint

  1. I ended up redoing this one... Again. In the meantime, I built a small ammo can forge that's 125 cubic inches. I axed the 3/4" burners I was trying to use, picked up the proper ward fittings to make 1/2" sidearm burners, added another burner in between the two so now its a three burner design. I also tore out all the refractory I used, except the wool, and did that all over again. I'm thinking of using kiln shelving as a floor for protection as well as decreasing over all inner dimensions. It got hot enough as it was, but it wasn't right. I have just a couple of things to do to it before it's ready to fire up again, I'll post follow up pics of that. It's not incredibly long, but it's long. 16" . I don't really need one like this, just felt like building it when I didn't have a full grasp on what I was doing. Now that I do, I'm too stubborn not to see it through. The ammo can forge works great and we've been using it a whole bunch. I imagine we'll still use it the most, but this one will be there in case we need it.
  2. Right you are Frosty. I can't ever seem to leave well enough alone, which is why my old Harley chopper spends as much time on the lift as it does the road, if not more. The huffing is the friction I was worried about undoubtedly, slowing the stream down. That was with solid "baffles" no? Wonder what would happen with, say, a fine metal kitchen strainer cut and shaped into a spiral that fit inside the mixing tube?
  3. Thanks everyone, it sure beats that railroad track you see sitting on the bottom shelf of the cart underneath the forges. Speaking of the track, thinking about setting that up on its end and grinding out a brazeal style inspired anvil for drawing curves and cutting.
  4. Guy on Craigslist had some 8.5" round stock drops for sale, picked up a 16" piece weighing over 250 pounds... For $50. Found the stump while walking through the neighborhood sitting out by the curb for heavy garbage pick up the following day, knocked on the door and the lady said I could take it. Thing was about as heavy as the steel drop was. Set the drop into the stump about an inch and a half, set it with gorilla wood glue. It ain't going ANYWHERE. Good score I think.
  5. You're two steps ahead of me Frosty, I came to that exact conclusion, came to post it, and you had just typed your last response. I'm gonna go look at my torch pile in the garage now.
  6. When I said pool, I was speaking of "k style " baffles, which are an older design that Hiram Maxam (the patented inventor of the gun silencer, and the car muffler as it were) used in his original design. I apologize for not specifying that. That baffle system is a series of stacked cones with a hole through the very center which allows the projectile to pass through, and also the gasses to move from one chamber to the other, slowing the explosive gas and mixing it with a colder and contained atmosphere. I now remember reading that you had tried steel wool already, so I'll disregard that idea as useless.
  7. Wait a moment... How would packing the mixing tube with stainless wool fair?
  8. That makes total sense actually, I wasn't even thinking of a ribbon burner when I posted that, much less the NARB. Exciting times. K style baffles might work, but I am somewhat concerned about pooling of propane in the tube. Monolith style baffles should alleviate this.
  9. It feels as though a conflict of personalities has the potential to stalemate what could be a good idea. This reminds me of another industry of which I've invested a large amount of time and money, the firearms industry, more so specifically, the SUPPRESSOR industry. Before any anti gunner rolls their eyes, hear me out. Suppressors, or silencers as their patent is actually called, use baffles of various sorts to expand, slow down, and cool off, explosive gases before they're launched into the outside atmosphere, which is part of which makes gunshots non hearing safe. The other being the action of the firearm, and the sonic crack of the projectile breaking the sound barrier, neither of which the silencer can help... But I digress, back to slowing down fast moving gases, and the mixing effect there of, inside of a tube, or pipe, or whatever other semantics you prefer... I'm going to go look at a few of mine now, and while I'm not going to risk destroying something that cost me a lot of money, a $200 tax stamp and registration there of to the BATFE, I actually don't think it would be hard to create a baffle system that would mix the gasses completely, but I do feel this would be best suited for a forced air system, it WILL slow down the velocity of gasses, and a hunch tells me that's counter productive to NA burners.
  10. 70 is way, way, WAY high. Like, 10 times too high.
  11. Ok, so mini side arm burner, 2" inswool, 1/4" hymor castable refractory, 1/4" plistex. Seems to work well. Ammo can gets hot but nothing to be alarmed about. Questions, comments, concerns?
  12. Action shots coming, 122 cubic inches of awesomess. Excited about this little guy.
  13. Correct, I was playing around with the choke a bit and taking pics of the results. Blue green indicates a rich environment, correct? I noticed a large amount of carbon monoxide at that color. I'll make sure it stays at the blue. So the second picture is ideally what I'm looking for, correct?
  14. As you know, I was not ecstatic with the chamber size of my slim quarter keg forge. I could've just rebuilt my burners and, in theory, been alright as that would've solved the back pressure issue, but I still would've not been happy with the dimensions I had to work with. So instead I tore out the castable refractory and k26 bricks that were underneath, and did it over again. Here are the results. i have a slight cold spot in the middle, I believe this is from a build up of the castable refractory on the inside when I was making the nozzle flares. I will attempt to knock it down some and see if it helps. All in all though, I'm pretty happy with the result. The blue flame is at 1psi, the pic where the forge is red hot is at 5psi.
  15. Haven't fired it up yet, gotta take care of the burner ports inside the chamber, but I think I should be golden.
  16. I turned 40 today. Been dead 3 different times in those 40 years. Let's party.

  17. Yes sir, I surely am wearing a respirator. Both my grandfathers died of emphysema, plus two uncles, and watching it was horrible. Bad enough I smoke, but I surely don't want to increase the chances with this stuff. I used silicon silicate as a rigidizer, but under the weight of twice the amount of castable I had planned for, it just didn't do enough. Gonna use chicken wire, maybe even aluminum foil, to see if that don't help keep it all in place along with the rigidizer, before I put the castable refractory on. I'll get everything smooth with this final wrap of wool. At least I know what I did wrong. Stayed tuned, round two is where I whip it. I believe this is gonna be a fantastic forge when done.
  18. Well, I drug it back out and cut down the mixing tubes to 6 inches, got the jets aimed perfect, but it was just bothering on how little space I was left. As I'm taking pictures to share with the class of how much I managed to get my dragons breath down, plus the much nicer shade of blue it was, I took a pic of the jet while it was running. The first pic here is that picture... Um, that red on my weld ain't supposed to be there... So I go back to the front, still bugging myself about the room inside... Here's that pic... Something ain't right... now it makes sense. Where I thought I had only added a half inch of the castable refractory, I added over an inch... And it shifted while setting, making the flame kiss the refrac before it even got into the chamber, heating up everything wrong. The flame was firing off an inch OUTSIDE the forge. so I tore it out. Question, can I reuse the kaowool that's inside here, I've got enough tucked away that I never used to wrap a smooth layer around everything you see here, but I'm not sure if it's ok to reuse this bit?
  19. Fantastic. The mig tip is slightly off center, not as much as it appears in the pic, but it was. The jet tubes aren't set in stone, so to speak, do I can play with that easily, and I'm currently searching for a way to actually make it set in stone, so to speak. I'm thinking of using JB weld to get them to stay where I set them, seeing as the set screw idea is ok at best in theory in my experience. I'm going to cut the mixing tube two inches also, hopefully these will cure the problem. If I need to, then I'll just chip the floor up, cut the keg opening on the bottom a couple of inches lower, and then just put the castable refractory over the ceramic wool itself and not buffer the two with the brick as I did here. This picture I'm including is how everything looked before I used the HyMor. I only used maybe a half an inch in thickness of the HyMor, however I just didn't think that it would eat up as much of a space as it did. I'm only running the forge in the garage for testing, with fans on, door open, fire extinguisher within arms reach, and for maybe 2-3 minutes. I agree whole heartedly that it shouldn't be run in there at all, and for actual forging use, it will be in the backyard, where half the yard is concrete slab, next to the metal gazebo. No excuses for safety however, I shouldn't run it in there at all and knew better. Complacency kills. I'll update this soon and let y'all know how its running. Appreciate you guys, and this site, so incredibly much.
  20. Oh, it's deg(F) . I apologize, I don't often post on international forums, the main forum I post on is ar15.com so I forget my manners from time to time when I speak and forget there's a whole other world that uses different units of measure. I definitely don't wish to lower the temp, so increasing the mig tip is out. I suppose I could adjust the injectors to be closer to the air intake and not so near the moving tube, which would lean it out a bit and perhaps lessen the dragons breath? My only concern with the dragons breath being this intense is making an unnecessary safety hazard for my son using the forge, however it shouldn't be a huge deal so long as he follows the basic safety rules under my supervision. I also suppose I could chip the floor out a bit and remove the half bricks I used, thus creating more room inside the forge. I think the k26 I cut in half and used there are unnecessary. That then, in theory, would cut some dragons breath down , correct? The purpose of this forge is knife making primarily.
  21. So the "excessive" flames put of the front and rear aren't necessarily a tell of a problem, just telling me that the atmosphere inside the chamber is at least ideal, if maybe a tad small? The mixing tube is 3/4" x 8". Really, I was only concerned about the dragons breath and if it was a problem. I'm happy as can be with the temp inside.