AdamTheSaint

This is 5psi with only the front burner running. My infrared thermometer reads between 885 and 1,770 , depending on where in the forge I put the dot. Here you go frosty.

Turning the propane down had little to no effect in that regard. What you are seeing is around 5psi lol

6D307F41-A6B2-4B47-AD6C-5AED69C702B9.mp4

A few things different. One is easily fixable, I believe I need larger MIG tips , .025 is what I had handy so I used it. Second is, in my quest to reduce internal volume inside the forge to maximize forge welding capabilities per burner/cubic inch... I should've made the chamber bigger initially. I think I'm gonna have exhaust issues, maybe. I need to go ahead and get the door worked out. Think I'll cut a slot into the top of the bottom outside ring on the keg big enough to accept a piece of kiln shelving and slide one in for the door. I need to consider working out a porch also. It took about 45 seconds in the forge for that piece of rebar to be easily bendable. What say you? 3A94CCD9-F9FA-486B-BA9E-79CF2B062667.MOV

Humble? We're in the same area. I'm off JFK and the beltway, in Aldine.

I started going gray when I was in my early teens, now it's highlights of a few dark hairs in a sea of silver. I'm turning 40 years old this month haha Around here, we call guys that been around doing the thing awhile grey beards, it's meant with the up most respect

Thank you JHCC. That was actually one of the very first posts I had read a couple of months back and even so, I still forgot to edit and resize my photos. My apologies all, I'll be better about that going forward.

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone, I like it here. Thanks for the kind words Kevin. He's a good kid, just more into the artistic side of things (even though I see art in everything, even the science) and not into "how does it work" thing. Trying to break him of that thought process, knowing how it works makes your paint strokes go further I like to think. He's pumped about starting though. Thank you, and that's gospel for sure. My shovel chopper in the back of that pic I posted doesn't leak oil, it sweats freedom haha Thank you Frosty, means alot. I'm enjoying it myself and I haven't even actually heated anything yet haha I built (2) modified 3/4" Reil EZ burners initially, then I got to thinking of everything a whole new way. A forge, like my 40 year old Harley for example, is a living thing with a soul and personality all its own, so what might work great in a forge with similar dimensions, might not work worth a darn in mine. Could all be hocus pocus, but I'm gonna explore it in that manner, with the science learned from guys like you of course, and experiment with several different designs. Which ever works the best in this forge will stay there, and the others will get a different designed forge, since I know I'll need a few. I just got done building (2) 3/4" sidearm burners last night. I'll be getting parallel fittings today or tomorrow to build some Z burners also. I know, I know, it's not the ward. It's what I could get my hands on yesterday last minute. Trying to find the wards locally in case these fittings don't play nice. Today I'll also tig up some stainless burner holders, and then hopefully put my castable in and let it cure. Also designing a door that'll likely be a kiln shelf slid into a slit I cut into the top of that ring around the base, but who knows what will happen between then and now.

Hey guys, stumbled on this board few months back when my oldest boy started to mention he wanted a forge to make... you guessed it, knives. Been reading and lurking, soaking up whatever information I can, sorting through the meat and cutting the fat that I can make out. I know enough about forges to comfortably say I don't know much, so don't be shy about correcting me when it's warranted if I give less than stellar advice. Anyhow, we were gonna build this thing together, father son project sorry if thing, then he admitted he doesn't really care about the actual act of building the forge after a few hours and left to go chat with his girlfriend haha kids today, same as yesterday hahah So I've been building this thing a little here, a little there the past few weeks finally. Using a slim 1/4 stainless steel keg (it's mine, literally, and not by theft or deposit) , well, I'll get more into it once it's done. Welder/fabricator by trade, my passions are my Harleys and chopping them up, learning whatever I can about most anything, my family (even if the oldest bailed on me haha) and being righteous in the eyes of my brothers. I'm always busy doing something. Was a single father with full custody for a bit over a couple of years, got myself the woman back that I should've married instead of who I actually did and lifes pretty fantastic. I probably don't look like the average member here , but I'm hoping I'm accepted into the community because, honestly, blacksmithing/blade-smithing/forge building wasn't even on my radar until I looked into it for my son, and now honestly, it's been consuming a large portion of my time and attention. I can't stop, too much to learn how to do, a whole new world was revealed to me thanks to this forum. Anyhow, see y'all down the road.

Older thread, but I ran across it in my travels and figured I should chime in to help the next guy that reads more than posts like I've been. It's a mullite based low cement castable refractory, Everything I've been able to read has me comfortable using the HyMOR 3100 special kk on my forge. Granted, I know very little about forges compared to the grey beards of the board, but I tend to catch on pretty quick on most everything I do. Here's the data sheet for the product I'm using in case anyone is interested. The numbers look good to me compared to other products I considered. I don't think you can go wrong with it, but I've been wrong before and will always be willing to learn if someone a bit more knowledgeable would like to point out something I missed. Plicast HyMOR 3100 Special KK.pdf

Awesome, thank you.