Jymm Hoffman

See if you can find pure carnuba wax and an analysis of it to compare. The last museum I worked for used carnuba to preserve iron artifacts, after removing rust, etc, normally by electrolysis. Their method with smaller parts was to leave submerged in hot carnuba wax until no more air bubbles were coming from the iron and the iron was the same temprature as the wax. While this is normally impractical to larger work, applying Tree Wax (brand name with carnuba) to warm ironwork is one option I use for indoor pieces. Most of the time now I use tong oil or Penetrol with japan drier. Dipping into or liberally rubbing on and letting drip dry while the metal is cold to warm, wiping off the drips.

I lived in Niagara County for 8 years. The last time I bought coal, the place near Buffalo (1-1/2 hours away,) had run out and not sure when the next batch was coming in, so I drove to my old source in Euclid, Ohio, 4-1/2 hours one way. That was in the early 90's and I do not think there was any dealing of coal at Amherst yet. I realized I had to do something differently. I found out about Mitch Fitzgibbons that built a flexible propane system that would weld, I switched to using propane. If you get tired of chasing good coal, wondering if it would be as good or better than the last batch, the dirt and clean up, try gas. I have been building blown propane systems since 93 and have not used coal in my shop since. I do a lot of forge welding and do not miss coal. More time for pounding on hot iron, less clean up and no handling of fuel. They get hot fast, so it does not matter if I want to do something for a couple of minutes or all day. Light the forge and in minutes it is up to temperature.

You may have to do all the above. Sometimes the steel bit may slip out when turning. Try getting a "tack" weld without turning the ax, just a couple hits, not too hard. Then quickly flux again and get back into the fire, then try turning it. Don't forget to "feed" the fire.

Try spreading moth balls around. It really works, my dad uses them every winter in his camper and antique cars. I use them in storage areas where I don't have to put up with the smell.

Not unusual for a good anvil to "ring like a bell," especially a Peter Wright. There are lots of tricks to quite down an anvil, and I recommend that you do make them as quite as possible for your ears' sake. I learned early on that if you tighten it down to a stump, it will help quite it. Other tricks include a rubber mat of some sort between the anvil and the stump. Silicon (caulking) works pretty well too, especially if you use some tightening method as well. I have simply pointed 1/2 round stock, driven into holes next to the feet, bend over the feet and drive tight. However, a chain that can be tightened is better and easier to remove to move the anvil. Look at the PAABA's website projects page to see an example.

I forgot to mention ear plugs. I did use foam for years. I now have the molded type and really like them. They are really worth the expense.

While much of the talk started out with foot wear, to that I will add I wear cotton and rag wool socks in my wooden shoes all year round. It really is cooler in summer and warmer in the winter. When others complain about cold concrete floors, my feet many times appear to be steaming when I kick of the wooden shoes. I do put irons on the bottoms to keep from wearing out the soles, otherwise they would only last about 8 months. Next up the body is cotton work pants for warm weather and jeans in cooler, bibs in the winter over the work pants. Next is my knee length leather apron with strap that connects the neck strap to the waist strap. It puts the weight of the apron on the shoulders and not the neck. The apron is split in the legs with straps and buckles to keep the legs where they belong. Makes it a lot easier for holding tools between my legs. I wear long sleeve cotton shirts all year round. I started doing this when I switched to gas, helps to keep some hair on your arms and deflect sparks from burning your arms. I always wear safety glasses with side shields, I need corrective lenses anyways, but won't let anyone work in my shop without safety glasses. Sometimes I wear goggles, and frequently a shield when grinding. I really like 18th. century style work hats, 100% natural fibers again, frequently wool and linen. Helps keep hat sparks out of the hair, etc. and easy to throw the face shield or welding helmet over with not fuss, or turning a hat around. Plus they really do a much better job of keeping the sweat out of my eyes than any other hat or bandanna. I frequently wear a left glove, occasionally one on the right (hammer) hand. Normally cheap welding gloves. I have tried Kevlar, etc, and find the cheap welding gloves work as well and cost a lot less.

More of what Ferrous says, Western Reserve in Ohio, Pittsburgh group: Pittsburgh Area Artist-Blacksmiths Association Homepage , there is also a group out of Oil City, as well as the Niagara group of New York Designer Blacksmiths. Most, not Oil City, can be found on the ABANA affiliates list. Eventually you should have an ABANA chapter in Erie. Until then, if you are willing to drive 2 -3 hours, you will be able to go to some really good meetings/hammer ins/ demonstrations.

Here is another source for work shoes for wide feet: Wide Width Steel Toe Boots, Steel Toe Work Boots In Wide Sizes, Extra Wide Steel Toe Boot, Wide Safety Boots, Extra Wide Steel Toe Work Boots And Shoes I was reluctant to try to buy without trying, but I did buy a pair of shoes from them that do fit my wide foot, walking/work shoes, no steel toe. They request a tracing of your foot with measurements to help in the process. If you don't scuff the shoes up, you can return them. They fit me very nicely. The shoes I bought are actually made in Pennsylvania, a pleasant surprise to me as I too prefer to buy Made in the USA. I prefer to wear wooden shoes when standing on concrete, as my shop has a concrete floor. Wooden shoes are my everyday work shoe.

Please keep getting the word out about the stolen anvils. I am supposed to get the replacements tomorrow and will post pics of those.

I guess it is time to introduce myself to those that don't know me, and maybe I will stop the little message in the corner..... Thanks Glenn for the site and posting my current problem of anvil thieves. For those that don't know me, I am in Western Pa, active with the Pittsburgh Area Artist Blacksmith Association, check out their site for more info about me as well: Pittsburgh Area Artist-Blacksmiths Association Homepage and I frequently post on forgemagic.com.

I had not planned on going public with the anvils until I had tested them. I am still in the development and hopefully test phase soon. Several people have asked me about prices. I do not have concrete prices from the foundry and heat treat facility heat. We are now going to try H13 that comes highly recommended by a friend that used to make dies for large forging presses and hammers. He has been trying to talk me out of S7 and the foundry just had a problem getting it, but has H13 in stock. So once I get things nailed down, I will let you know. This pattern is also designed to be cast without a horn as well. This whole process has taken longer than I had hoped. I do not know how H13 will work until I put it under the hammer. I was supposed to have these in June, but had to scrap those out. Then again in July, but we changed the pattern, then the foundry was backed up, just one thing after another. I never thought I would go into dealing blacksmith tools, but will keep you posted. I just wanted to improve the historical look of my period set up and maybe have something to offer others interested in the same.