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I Forge Iron


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About the2ndcashboy

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    Livingston, Tx

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  1. No, the base was rusted pretty heavily. Nothing that will hurt function, but it's pitted too deeply to see any numbers.
  2. Sorry, had to go to my desktop and edit the post to add pics. Yeah, the indentations under the heel are what makes me think its an A&H. I'm not that knowledgeable about anvil history though, so I thought I'd get more learned opinions.
  3. Picked up this anvil the other day. I believe its an A&H, but there are no remaining markings at all. The sides have been beat on quite a bit and the base has lost some metal to rust (looks like it probably sat in something wet for a few years or decades). Dimensions are: 120lbs, 3-5/8"x15" face, 25-1/2" overall, 1/2" pritchel, 7/8" hardy (I think. It's a hair under 1" so I'm guessing with wear it was originally 7/8".), 10-3/4" height, 9-1/2"x11" base.
  4. That looks a LOT like the presumptive Badger I picked up awhile back on the cheap to repair. Badgers are supposed to be better than Vulcans, but this one didn't weld very well, even with the special cast iron rods ($$$). Lots of fizzing and burning in the weld puddle. That one is still functional, but I wouldn't pay 375, and don't count on being able to repair it in any way.
  5. My NARB would run at 5psi for about 30 minutes and then start popping. At first I turned the gas up, and that worked, but then I got smart and just opened the doors up all the way. Now it runs @ 5psi for hours at a time, at a nice yellow heat.
  6. Yes, I've already signed up with littleblacksmith for a class this fall. I might check into Lyle Wynn as well. I grew up in the county Brazeal is based in, and still have family there. Wynn is in that general area as well.
  7. Ah ok, so he's still in Kenya eh? I noticed one of his pages said he was going there late last year, but there was no timeline.
  8. Is Brazeal still doing classes? Everything I can find on the internet is outdated, and I emailed him with no response. Is he ok? I haven't heard that anything happened to him.
  9. I don't think I'd want to use Matrikote as a finish coat over fiber in a forge. At least not anywhere that might get bumped or poked. I suppose you could do a hard floor of some sort and then coat the rest with matrikote.
  10. Sounds good. Do you have a schedule for the classes yet? I'm interested in hammer and tool making.
  11. So I've been lurking for awhile. And finally started posting a few weeks ago. Perfect time for an introduction, right? I'm an aircraft sheetmetal/structures tech by trade, and a rank newbie at blacksmithing. Got started doing stock removal knives 10-15 years ago. Made a few off and on over the years, then finally made my first forge 2 years ago to heat treat some steel. It was just a brick charcoal forge, but I discovered I really enjoyed forging. After a hiatus to remodel/sell our house in the suburbs and then buy a house/farm out in the boonies and get that up and running, I finally got the project list worked down far enough so I can start into blacksmithing in earnest. Put together a nice gas forge last week and am getting my work area squared away. Haven't made much other than some leaves out of 1/2" stock so far. I'm really looking forward to learning the craft. I've spent my first 35 years trying out a huge variety of different hobbies (mostly involving metalworking), and I think it's time to settle down and really dig deep into something. IFI seems like a good place to hang out and learn.
  12. I just hope the data I got is helpful to people, even though I should have done quite a bit more "before" testing I think. I may make a smaller knifemaking specific forge sometime this year using the same materials and a 1/2" NARB. I'll do more "before" testing if so.
  13. I don't know what Wayne's castable #1 & #2 are, but I used Mizzou in my burner. It's what the ribbon burner plans floating around out there recommend. Supposedly Kastolite isn't tough enough, but I think it's what Frosty used in the original NARB (strengthened somewhat). Seems to me the expanded metal on the edges is almost required in these smaller size burners. There's just not enough room for a decent lip on the cutout and 3 rows of holes. My mold was 2x2x7, and 2lbs of mizzou was pretty much exactly enough to fill it. I used the mixing instructions from Hard Luck Forge. I've fired it to full temp a half dozen times so far and it seems to be holding up well. There's one hairline crack across the face but it's only about 1/4" deep. I used an old toaster oven for the initial heating/crayon melting. Just took it to 250, 350, and 450 for an hour each (cooling between each cook) after letting it air cure for 24 hours. As far as buying the refractory in larger amounts, it's probably not worthwhile to get a whole 55lb bag of mizzou unless you're going to line some forges with it too. At 2lbs a pop, that's a LOT of burners. Hard Luck sells mizzou in 5, 10, and 20lb bags. A 5lber would do 2 NARBs. In your case, I'd say most of your issues came from mixing refractories, rather than the amount of water you added. Different castables will have different heating and expansion rates. You might get away with doing that on, say, a forge liner that's only 1/4" - 1/2" thick. A 2" thick block is gonna have problems.
  14. I ran the test again today, just to see if the coating reacted any differently on the 2nd firing. The warm up curve was much more uniform this time. No weird pauses or anything. Actually tracked pretty closely to the uncoated test, with the exception that it was still climbing at the 10 minute mark, and the liner itself was obviously not heating up as quickly. It was still about 2175f @ 14 minutes though. I took the TC out at that point and let it run to 20 minutes, then put it back in and let the temp stabilize. It was at 2280f when I took the TC back out @ 22 minutes and put the stock in for the timed heat. The liner looked like it was pretty close to uniformly high yellow heat, so I hoped the stock would heat much quicker this time. It took right at 4 minutes this time, which is much better than the first coated test, but still not as good as the uncoated. I'm thinking I'll have to run the forge for a good 30 minutes to get the liner to full heat soak, and that would probably get it to heat the stock the same as the uncoated. That's kind of disappointing. I've always heard that the kiln wash will drastically cut stock heating times, but I didn't get that result at all. My guess is that the people that had the large heating improvement either didn't have a layer of castable over the wool, or were heating to a lower temperature. Or both. The stuff really does provide an insulating effect, but that may actually be somewhat counterproductive in a forge with a decent heat mass like mine, at least in short forging sessions. After I finished the stock heating test, I turned the burner down to 6-7psi to see how long it would run without backfiring. After about 10 minutes it was still running fine, so I stuck the TC in to see what the temp was. It very quickly ran up over 2300f , so I snatched that thing right back out of there. Good to know it will run that hot even lower than 10psi. I'm excited to see what it does once I get the doors done and the burner mounted properly. Overall, I'd say the Matrikote was probably a good addition. It definitely increased the overall temp. It also should make the lining more durable, and with its increased insulating effect, I should be able to run the burner lower without backfiring. I do wish I'd done some more testing with the uncoated forge first though. If I had it to do over, I'd have tested the uncoated forge at more of a variety of burner psi levels, so I'd have more points of comparison with it now that its coated. I wasn't expecting the poor stock heating results after coating. I was aiming more to check the max temps and warmup rate. The stock heating test threw me for a loop.
  15. This was the first firing with the Matrikote. From my understanding, there's not really a burn in process like refractory. I can stick the TC in next time I fire it up and see if anything changes. I'm definitely going to try the stock heating test again, probably after the forge has had more time to heat soak. It probably would have been better to run the uncoated test a bit longer, but I was fairly confident it had stopped climbing. Uncoated, the temperature rise was fairly consistent, it didn't really "pause", just climbed steadily until it stopped around the 9:30 mark. Coated, there were several points where it stopped climbing. Especially once it hit about 1900 the rate slowed way down. It hit 1900 @ 5, and then actually dropped a couple degrees before it started climbing again @ 6 minutes. I let it run past 10 minutes because of that, and because the forge still hadn't reached that bright yellow that it had uncoated.
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