JPH

oops.....didn't work...here they are..... @#$!!computers...one day i might figure them out....(riiiight....) JPH

As mentioned in a previous posting here's that three core composite using 200 series stainless and 1070 for the three cores in a twist/counter-twist interupt/offest pattern. I got lazy and used 1070 for the edging instead of my usual high density shear steel... Now I got to mount the thing...will use some sort of forged bronze for the furniture... JPH

Hummmmmm....ok I have been using a lot of 200 series stainless, not much C I know (only 15 pts or so) but it sure contrasts nice....and for a colour layer used in a multi core composite with say 1060/70...it rocks...in fact I have a large dagger/shortsword I am etching right now with this mix..might post it when it's out under a seperate heading For the other stuff...meteoric iron just for the "wow" factor...a lot of L-6, 1095 or my MAD6 mix...M2/A2/D2 for when I am feeling really self destructive as this stuff does NOT want to move under a hammer and the contrast isn't that great but man does it cut.. I putter about alot trying different stuff so it's hard to say...from old Ak47 barrels to pry bars.... JPH

Howdy.... For most work I use my 8lb cross pein that I made about 10 years back..for smaller work I use a 6 or 4# cross pein and for the dainty/delicate stuff a 3 or even the miniscule 2 lb cross pein... JPH

My two cents here..... I have made 100's and 100's of these things and when properly heat treated, they aren't all that bad, considering what they are.. There is more to making a knife than just the materials involved..PROPER and careful thermal treatment, a thermal treatment that is OPTIMAL for that particular material will work wonders on the end use, couple that with good edge geometry and you will have a pretty decent knife. Now will they cut?? Sure they will..if properly done but they will not be as good at holding an edge as say a knife mde from 1084 or 1095, but for what they are, they will serve the purpose... I can get mine "shaving sharp" and using cold caustic soda brine as a quenchant they get just hard enough (at least for me) to take and hold a decent edge for a decent length of time...Not the greatest material in the world but it does have what I call the "wow" factor... I am woreking on a batch of 50 of these right now that I will have done later today or early tomorrow, I might just post a pick of a few .. I do mine a bit differently than most folks do... All in all..just be honest with your clientele, tell them that these are more for a "novelty" than for serious use, although alot of my clients use them ALOT in re-enactment settings and they grab them up by the dozens... Not the greatest steel for a knife but it can be used if you know how to do the right thermal treatment... JPH

Daryl: Ok...there was no pressure relief valve on this system when it blew..there is now though...I got it located before the valave with the overpressure relief line running back to the tank. One of the problems of designing a system when you really don't have all the info you need... Ten: On the filter..I have two can filters, one on the tank between the tank and pump and one on the line on the return to the tank, both on the "low pressure" lines.. Boy I tell ya this was a total mess to clean up though...but I am back up and running.... JPH

Candid: well once I get Julius broken dopwn for the upcoming move (oh I am so NOT looking forward to that...) I will enlcose all the valaves and sltt in a heavy duty plastic tub just is case his happens again. As it is I am a bit behind but I shall catch up in the next few days. The reapirs cost me some $$$ that I didn;t have planned but old Julius will pay for that in a couple of day's worth of work on the time he saves me NOT having to flatten and true by hand. All in all it could of been much worse than it was... JPH

DD: Well when I break something I BREAK it...no half efforts on my part when it comes to total destruction... Talk about T&E learning... well the mess is cleaned up and I am back to smashing things so this is good... JPH

Howdy!! Ok..I got Julius up and running WITH a over pressure relief valve installed and he's back to squeezing things A-OK.. I have attached a photo of what I did....man that base plate cracked.. the hole is an oval!!! There were chunks of iron in the valve port and one of the solenoids is jammed...methinks that is what caused the overpressure... Anyway it should be dealt with now...it was an expensive lesson but a lesson well learned. JPH

For the pressure relief valve, I'd install it on the pressure line that makes the ram extend. I'd most likely just add some fittings at the valve and have it t'd off before it changes to hose.> Chris: I was thinking I might put it in right in front of the solenoid where the ingress goes in. This is where it blew and well..if I put the relief valve there it SHOULD prevent any sort of excess pressure buildup before the valve and well..that should do it right?? Now where do I vent the pressure relief valve to?/ do I have to run a new return to the tank or can I splice in to the return from the cylinder?? I will say that running a new return to the tank would be easiest as it's just a matter of running a hose and a couple of fittings... JPH

Rich: I appreciate the offer...but the parts are already on their way to me from Northman...Like I said they really were a GREAT HELP..It's nice to know that a company will do that to help out one of their customers... THANK YOU...if you need anything from up this way let me know....dice clock..."Shady Lady" tokens...ya know the usual Vegas stuff...Pics of Elvis on Black velvet.... JPH

Howdy: well after pulling the valve and all...the baseplate is cracked...BIG crack from the inlet port right on out to the edge...after talking to the folks at Northman they suggested that since I do not have any idea as to why the thing cracked that I should replace the whole valve.. Now I don't have a hydraulic test bench so I have a new valave coming in from them along with a new baseplate, these folks bent over backwards to help me and even sold me one at wholesale cuase there wasn't a distributor close to me... Talk about customer service...it is refreshing in this day and age to see a company go that extra bit to help "a little guy" out....And they want the old valave back to see why it did this..they said at 3500 PSI it should of "switched over" to bypass if it loaded above that.. Great folks those are!! So it will be here in about a week......oh the threads are 1/2" pip thread for a "tubing" connection....I already have the new fittings coming if from the house of hose here in Henderson........now...do I dope these connections??? Anyway, thanks for all the advise...I do appreciate it...now how do I put in a over pressure relief vale and where on the line to I put it and where do I run it to??? Fun fun fun in Henderson, Nevada JPH

Update: Ok...I undid the valve and the hose in question after three turns the male fitting was very loose and was "wobbling" in the female hole...Now this isn't a "good thing" now is it?? The other hoses were snug all the way out. The male fitting looks OK but I will replace that as well.. The valave in question is a Northman # SWH-GO3-C6-R120-10 Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?? I called Northman and they do not sell direct and the gentleman on the phone says there are no distributors in my area.. Dang..well...any ideas>> JPH

Howdy: Ok...I was mistaken..it is not on the egress to the pump it is on the ingress FROM the pump so it is under high pressure... There are no ruptured lines, they are all A-ok....after puttering about and coming up with several new profane combinations it looks like the leak is between the solenoid frame and the hose fitting. I cannot tighten the fitting down any further, it leaks like a sieve, so...I dunno.. I see no evidence of an "O" ring..might be inside still... As far as the make..it is a "Northman" brand Solenoid Operated Directional Valve Mfg #7072, so it says on the mfg plate...I am pretty sure I can find these anywhere that sells hydraulic components but I will take it apart and see what the deal is if there is a blown out "O" ring or whatever is in there...could be a dollar fix vs a 300$$$ one... As far as safety goes..you all must realise I am the worlds biggest chicken.. I have no qualms about admitting that I am the quintessential "coward" when it comes to high pressure stuff...ALL the plumbing is on the back side of Julius just in case something like this did ever happen...It's just one great big mess...that's all...well that's why I had three kids..to help clean up!! I got about 40# of kitty litter sopping up the mess....will let that "absorb" the rest of the evening and then scoop it up and get it outta here...Sigh....why does this stuff always seem to happen when it's a rush project?? JPH

Oh well.....anyone know anything about hydraulics?? I am working on Julius Squeezer and all of a sudden I hear this horrendous BANG!! the sound of spraying water and well I have bright red hydraulic fluid spraying all over my studio at 3500 PSI... Looking like I blew a seal at the solenoid on the egress to the pump...Now..what do I do besides spread kitty litter all over the floor and wipe up the fluid???.. Are we talking new solenoid or??? I mean I know pretty much nothing about fluid dynamics and hydraulic systems so HELP!!! JPH

Thomas: Ya know old man..I appreciate the offer but logistically it would be a nightmare, but still..thank you... I am currently working in a 25ft by 35ft studio. It is getting rather "cozy" in there. I will be putting in a 30ft by 50 ft one in the new place, which is like 2/3rd bigger than I have now, plus I am looking at another 1/2 acre of real estate. It will be a major PITA to build. move and set up but what choice do I have?? Ya gotta do what needs to be done right?? Still with my share of this place I should be able to just about pay for the whole Magilla and only need to carry about 65K on a mortgage.... Granted Pahrump, Nevada is the boonies...population of 40K or so...it is the 5th largest city in Nevada (which isn't saying much) as once you get out of the Las Vegas valley things get to be really rural really quickly...I will be outta Clark County and in the "Kingdom of Nye" as brother Art Bell calls it...Ok I am a 50something old fart starting over...so be it..it won't be easy but day-um....as long as UPS and FedEx ground delievers and picks up I can work on the moon, my business won't "suffer" much and for that I will be forever grateful. I fully realise that I am in avery unique and enviable position as far as "crafts folks" go...I have been able to support myself and my family since 1984 doing this...ands while I might have another 15 to 209 years left of heavy hammer swinging...I plan on dying with my 8# hammer in my hand (that or being shot by a jealous 20 year old husband....when i am at the tender age of 93....whahahahaaa!!!!) Yeah this bites...this whole thing bites.....but you play the cards you are dealt.... JPH

Yeah, the whole situation just bites....I will probably be out of business for close to 4 to maybe 6 months while I am building/relocating and that means storage spaces for the equipment....not much fun I fear....but I will "be back"//it's just starting over at this point in my life is..well....frightening to all get out.. Looked at a few properties up in Nye County, it is a bit "odd" out there so I should fit in just fine... Hell's bells..I might just run for county Sheriff once I am there for a year...That is a scarey thought in itself...whahahahaaaaa...Maybe city council or county commission?? Dunno... But I will survive one way or another. JPH

Hello: well sooner or later this little tid-bit will "get out" as they say, so I might as well get the facts out before rumors start flying... After 18 years of marriage my wife and I are divorcing. I am loosing not only my home but my workplace, as we built this place almost 15 years ago with my working in the studio out back as a requirement. So, loosing this place, I loose my studio. Needless to say this pretty much puts a kabosh on anything until I not only find a place to live but also to work. I am already looking at properties (found several that may meet my needs) and building a new home/workshop complex a bit north of Las Vegas across the Nyw county line ( yes it will be Art Bell and I in the Kingdom of Nye for you hard core radio fans...) Breaking down the equipment and all will be a major PITA and moving it will be even more so. Being a one man opperation does have it's drawbacks at times, but with Ichabod I could probably do this all by my lonesome OK... I will have to find a storage place for all my worldly goods until I can get into someplace permanent once all this gets settled. At least my "personal" stuff, outside of my fiurearms can be moved in the back of my van (I don't have much "stuff"...well, not any more anyways....sigh...). So now ya all know.. I am sorry that this has happened, cause I was really looking forward to doing this. Maybe once I get settled into the new place I will be able to do this...but then I will probably really be way out in the boonies... Take care JPH

App: Welding is welding...it's not that hard to do, besides it is a basic skill after all..The hard part is getting the twists even and everything alaigned right. Now THAT is a real PITA to get done right. But the welding is just welding.. While you do need to know how to make 100% perfect welds 100% of the time, it's really not all that hard to do if you follow the "rules of welding"...It's just that when you do a sword in this fashion it's a bunch of rerally long welds.. JPH

Chuck: Thank you for the kind words.. I try to keep this as easy to understand and follow and to be as striaghtforward as I can when writing. Sometimes it's difficult to know whether or not I actually succeeded.... All in all I think the article truend out OK... Take care JPH

Hello: I just posted the entire walk through article on my website en toto...for those interested.. www.atar.com look for "articles by Jim" in the menu and click you will be taken to a sub menu listing all the artciles to date.. Fred: I didn't recieve any message..so what's the scoop?? JPH

sorry that this took so long to get done, but sometimes "life" happens...anyway here is the completed three core twist/counter-twist offest interupt pattern sword with a three piece bovine ivory (bone( grip with bronze and silver mounts. This one turned out OK so it seems. Sorry that the photos aren't all that hot but hey, I never claimed to be a photographer... JPH

Chuck, John: Thank you for the kind words..My site still needs a whole lot of work to get where I want it to be but it is coming along. It was a total mess and frankly I wasn't all that keen on the way it was layed out and all, but my websmaster at the time kept telling me he'd "do it" and well..what he did..well...it wasn't done the way I wanted it to be. There is a certain level of "expectation" as to what my site should contain and be set up like, considering the "reputation" I have garnered (and have constantly tried to lived down..) and all (As ya all can probably tell I usually don't take myself serously most of the time...). So I work on it as time allows and it will be the way I want it here shortly I hope. Like I said there is still a lot to do on it buit as it is, right now it is 100 times better than it was... On prices..I have been doing this stuff for a very, very long time..I got the "time down" on a lot of stuff...I don't stand around waiting for stuff to get hot..I will be fitting guards or drilling or soldering while stuff is heating..Not much "dead time" usually.... I don't believe in pricing myself out of the market...could I charge more?? Yeah, I could...but I couldn't look at myself in the mirror and the words of my Papuli come to mind when he said "Don't price your milk to high that it spoils in the can"....I have had to raise prices due to the fact that my raw material cost has risen dramatically and I hated to do that..but what choice do I have?? I try to keep my prices within reason and fair to everyone, including myself...I am a one man opperation, I own all my tools and I am pretty "fluid" when it comes to my work as one fellow said. I can just move from one step onto another without much fuss. In fact the only "glitch" I have is leatherwork I HATE it..but I am taking a leatherworking class starting next month, thinking that just maybe if I actually KNEW what I was doing I wouldn't feel that way..Who knows right??? Anyway thank you again for the kind words..I appreciate them greatly.. JPH

Tyler: I do not use a salt bath for heat treating for several reasons, the biggest being is I am one great, big, yellow bellied, knock-kneed CHICKEN!! That is far too dangerous for me to even be around. One DROP of water or moisture on a blade or in any way gets into that bath and you will have molten salts spraying all over. I worry enough about the Nitre I use for royal bluing and those only get to 600 degrees or so... No..I heat treat the old way...and even that way has its own sets of hazards but it's still much safer than molten salts.. Doing that stuff..well I will leave that to folks who are braver than I am... JPH (cluck cluck cluck)