JPH

Howdy!! Ok on the browning, there are two ways to go about this that I know of...one is the "old way" which uses "organic" materials and the other is the "new way" using chemicals. While there are ready mix "browning formulea" out there like from Laurel Mountain Forge and a few other places I do not like the finish as much as I do the traditional way it's done. Plus you have to be really picky and careful on how you apply the "new stuff"..put on too much and you'll not get a decent brown so I use the old ways. For the squeamish the easiest is to use the chemical mix, "aqua regia"..which is basically nitric acid and water. I use 1 part nitric acid to 5 parts distilled water. Starting with a "fresh" surface ("raw" metal here..) and wearing rubber gloves apply a coating of the AR and the steel will almost immediately "darken". Now I hang these from a rod in a trash can while browning. Apply the re-agent three or 4 times a day for two to three days. These will look horrid during the process. They will turn black, blue, red, orange or any combination of these. On the third day after you got a really "fuzzy" coating card off the loose rust. I use a wire brush, you can use steel wool. After you card off the loose rust you should see a nice brown coating starting to form..Re-apply the re-agent again three or 4 times a day. For a smoother coat card off every other application, for a "rougher" brown, do not card off until the 3rd or 4th day after the first carding. At this time you should have a nice brown. If not..simply re-apply more re-agent and give it another couple of days. Now this is very dependant upon humidity in your area. Here in Las Vegas where it is very dry it usually takes me 14 to 17 days to get a nice brown, in the SE, say Georgia or Mississippi it might take only 6 or 7 days, if that. Neutralize using baking soda and water "paste" and then dry and oil. You MAY get some scaling off of the loose rust a day or two after but that is normal. Just clean it off and re-oil. PAste wax will also help seal the surface but as it is..it's already passivated.. The "Organic" way is applied the same as above except you use boiled down horse urine. I get a gallon or two and reduce it down to 1/4 volume. Now if you value your domestic tranquility boil it down outside, and in a non reactive (glass or ceramic) vessel. Stainless steel CAN etch doing this so... Once you get it boiled down the smell isn't all THAT bad, a bit fragrant but hey...you're tough and you will "sacrifice" for your "art" right?? The colours you get depends upon the materials....mild steel and high carbon tend to be a chocolate brown...alloy steels tend to be a bit more "tawny" in colour... All in all....I like the finish. It just looks "sexy" and besides, not a whole lot of folks do it, yet... If you have any questions, by all means feel free to ask.. JPH

Dennis: Ok...I don't see anything amiss on the photos that you posted as far as the scales go. If you are worried about using epoxy, remember that epoxy is used as a replacement for cutler's resin, which is really nothing more than heated pitch. I wouldn't worry about what anyone would think in regards to the epoxy, after all you are using modern steel..which is way beyond what would of been used. So use the epoxy. Now are you drilling the holes prior to thermal treatment?? If so...use Co drills or TiN coated ones...That's all I use noewadays, gave up on the HSS ones years ago. The Co or TiN drills are not really all that much more $$$ and they do cut a whole lot better and if you do hit a "hard spot" they can usually chew through A-Ok..better than a HSS one anyways. Helpful hint....fit one scale, cement, let cure, then drill the hole though from the tang side, then fit the other scale, cement, cure and drill though from the first side. I use marine grade epoxy on everything except horn, which I use this really nasty stuff on that you can stick glass to glass together with. Takes 24 hours to harden. If you want I will look at the cans and let ya know what it is...It's out in my studio and I am in my office presently. Really now. I see no problems with the grips you posted. I don't do scales very often cause what I do doesn't usually require then mut dang, you got a good start so far...

Ian: Oh yeah tossing axes can be a fun way to spend a few hours or an afternoon. You get the rotation right you can stick them pretty much every time.. i find that I get a better stick and accuracy if I throw then blade backwards. This strikes with the handle "up" rather than "down". Looks funnier than a cross eyed duck but for me it works. Plus if you are playing handles, it's harder to get hit. There are a few different ways to throw these things and have them work..I guess it's all on what your use to. One guy in my club throws them almsot sideways and well, it's kind of odd to watch but it works for him...He also htrows underhanded sometimes as well..that is also interesting to watch. Usually I throw overhanded mostly blade to the rear as I get better range and for me a bit better accuracy. I am working on a couple more with a heart piercing that I will post when they are done browning. Forged and fitted these last night so the start to brown this morning. Just wish it didn't take so long to do but man the results are worth it. It looks so NICE...Oh interesting note on the browning..if you boil the pieces in distilled water for about an hour or two the browning will turn/blue black for the old "rust blue"... I might do this on a couple for grins and giggles... JPH

Hello: Hope no one minds my two cents here.... On the borax/flux thing..what materials are you welding in this chain?/ If it is plain old "iron/mild steel" borax will be fine...You can get anhydrous borax for like $1.00 a pound at most pottery suppliers. At least that is what it costs me here in the Las Vegas Valley. Same for fluorspar and a few other handy "blacksmithing chemicals". Now if you are welding alloys that have Mo, V, W, Co and especially Ni and Cr you will need a flux that is a bit more agressive than plain borax. But I would say that for 95% of the work you will be doing, borax will be more than adequate. Ok..I have to take exception with your statement about the charcoal. There is nothing "wrong" with using charcoal for a fuel, in fact it was the "original metalworker's fuel" for thousands of years. You can melt steel in a charcoal fire, with the right blast. One word of advise: DO NOT USE BRIQUETTES..They are Henry Ford's revenge if you ask me. REAL charcoal (I use either the local mesquite or the hardwood lump available at resturaunt supplers...they usually have the best prices...shop around) burns HOT with the right blast and it burns CLEAN. works especially well for stainless steels. As for the blast you need a low pressure high volume blast. think of an open window and a gentle breeze vs a 1/4" pipe of compresses air...Same CFM different pressure. Charcoal burns differently than coal/coke plus it smells like you are having a cook out rather than 19th cent Pennsyvania steel mills. Believe me, you can weld in a charcoal fire quite easily. Anyway , hope this helps.. JPH

Howdy: Ok...on the peirced work...what I did is well..this is like so simple to do it's just well...you'll see... First make a hole..I punch these usually, and let them cool slowly, and after that I then take one of those "rod saws" and cut the design. I usually draw that on with a p[encil for a guide.Takes like 15 minutes or so to cut. It actually takes longer to do the rust browning than anything else. I think that the browning is just "sexier" than the rougher black forge finish, plus not everyone and their uncle knows how to do it...not that it's that hard to do..but still it is rather unique... Actually I liked the way these turned out...too bad I haven't made any in the last 12 years or so... JPH

Hello: Here's a pair of throwing axes/tomahawks that I just finsihed up. Soft iron poll and body with a 1060 insert edge. Bladed width approx 3" with pierced work. Slow rust brown finish on a flamed and oiled hickory hafting. Thought I'd share. JPH

Jens: Not shabby at all....nice "honest" knife...You water or oil harden?? ya know.I once made a file from an old kinife I had laying around.. Ducking for cover.. JPH

Julian: Ok...it looks like a sword and at this point, that's doing pretty good for a first attempt...Not some "weird fantasy" piece that I see so many of for "first attempts". It is a straight forward "honest attempt" at a sword... But tell ya what...make a few dozen knives first, single edged, double edged...small, large, mix them up...learn the basics of moving the metal, how it reacts...get to know edge geometry and distal tapers, thermal treatments.....if you need help..drop me a line...I'd be more than happy to help you out... Now when you get to the point where you are comfortable in your skill level, and you are ready to make another sword, you are more than welcome to pop on up here and I will walk you through it one on one. I do not make this offer to everyone but you have piqued my interest. An honest attempt like this shows promise...and so many folks nowadays, well..that's lacking... JPH

Howdy!! Just a note...just finished posting pics of that finished khanjhar I did for that article on Ladder Patterning on my website. All in all it turned out OK for an Olde Fart like myself... xxxx...I wish I had me around when I was starting out... Woulda made things of so much easier... JPH Edit: words edited

Well I just hit on a way to check my limit switches on my press, If you just squich modeling clay... Works great...I put some in..squish, and then I check it and adjust accordingly.. Also works for die designs to check on top/bottom die work... Thought I would share... JPH

Ralph: No, haven't tried that yet, maybe I will on my next re-lne...I get to do that about every 3 to 4 months. I do alot of welding... On the flux...I have another one of my bright ideas on that, I need to investigate it further. I am always tweeking and experimenting with my recipe, and sometimes I get a hit...usually it's a miss...hard to "improve" the "steel glue" so far...but maybe this will. JPH

Ralph: Yes it does, along wih a few other things...the stuff is very agressive and well, it'll eat right through most refractoires in a heartbeat. This is why I use kitty litter and a drip plate in the bottom of my forge. It catches any flux that happens to flow, drip or just move off the bar, rather than have it eat into my forge bottom. JPH

Stryder: Ok methinks you jumped the gun a bit....let me clarify... 1: YOU didn't start anything, when I made that statement, it was in regards to a rather unpleasant posting by an individual who got his knickers bunched up because I suggested that he get a hold of several titles and one of them happened to be one that I authored. It got freakin' ugly really quick and well, I just didn't want a repeat of that. That is all. My comments were in no way, shape or form aimed at you or anyone, I just wanted to advoid another unpleasantry. 2: I have been more or less "crucified" by folks who for some reason do not feel that it is "correct" for me to "divulge secrets". What a crock of well...you know. There are NO SECRETS..now are there things that I hold back from folks? Most certainly, but only until I can know for sure that they are working "safe" and not going to harm themselves or someone else if they try using a certain chemical compound or technique. Some of the things I do can be quite hazardous but if you work safe, they are no more "dangerous" than anything else. You get your head up your grommit for 2 seconds and something might just bite you hard and deep... So I cheesed off a few folks...I certainly am not loosing any sleep over that, in fact for every one I upset I must of helped thousands..good rate of exchange if you ask me. 3: Speak up...you have a question, let's hear it..If you have a comment, let's hear those too. This is a "forum" after all... Believe me, I am like Voltaire on that subject... $:If you want to get into forge welding...heck we'll help ya...but I gotta ask what you plan on doing with it after you got it made? Are your skills at a point where they will do this materail "justice" or are you wanting to make a $50.00 knife out of a $500.00 piece of material?? Now if you are at the point where you can do it decently, then let's dance...if not.. well then let's get you to that point. Drop me a line when ya get back in town...might take me a day or two to respond as I have RPFS looming in the near future that I have got to make stock for... Oh...dang I just remembered...if you want to see a more or less "real time" tutorial on welding up a ladder pattern bar, I just posted a tutorial on my website that shows how I do it.. now everyone works differently but it will give you the basics of what is entailed. This will give you an idea as to what you are getting into...It's dirty, it's smelly, it frustarting but it sure is FUN!! JPH

Howdy!! Hey..I didn;t say I was leaving...all I said was I didn't want to start up a pi**ing contest again...Glenn said not to worry about it..so I won't. AZ Mike: What KIND of saw blade was that do you know?? It could be the fact that you had a high Cr/Ni content alloy. Some of thise power hacksaw/recip saw blades are rather rich alloyed and that can have an adverse effect on welding if you are not aware of what you are working with. Even then there are ways around it. I would say start out with 1095 and L-6...these weld up like glue..or better yet..to get use to welding start out with wire rope..drop me a note if ya want... Stry: Ok what you are describing is called "can welding" and is becoming very popular, this involves powdered metals and sheets and all sorts of arcane stuff..I have done it...it's just not as much fun as traditional pattern welding , well at least to me it's not.. None of this stuff is that hard...I worked alone from pretty much day one and I still do...Now if you have any questions, either ask them here or drop me a line..I know we here can probably help you out. This goes for anyone else reading this by the way.. Take care JPH

Well Glenn you are "The Boss"..I just didn't want to start up another "flame war" or get into a ****ing contest again after that first one. I tell ya, some folks just have some really thin skins.... But you know me...I tend to try to stay out of the "lime light"..I'll let other folks bask in the "glory and the fame"...that is fine for them..not for me... I just couldn't sit by while poor little Stryder there stumbled about trying to T&E it when I could save the guy a whole lotta heartache and frustration. I have seen folks get so worked up over failing at welding that they quit the whole smithing gig entirely and walk away from it for good.....and man I hate to see that happen... JPH

Stry: Ok pilgrim...methinks you misunderstood what I mean by welding. Forget the rod..forget the torch , forget all that stuff. I am talking forge/hammer welding. The "old way" it has been done since the Iron Age started back in Asia Minor a couple of thousand years ago. The basics of welding in a forge is to heat the two (or as many as you have) pieces until they are hot enough to stick together, quickly remove them from the forge, place on the anvil in the desired position and then lightly but firmly tap it with a hammer to make the weld. All of this being done before the pieces cool enough to drop belowe that welding temperature..Which by the way varies , depending upon the materails used.. I take it you are not familiar with this??? Confused??? Don't be.. welding is the most misunderstood process in smithing and one of the easiet to do decently... I can walk you through it...I have done this with a few folks over the years. As far as books go, I myself cannot comment on that due to past problems here. Seems that some thin skinned individuals got their knickers twisted up over me doing that... Drop me a e-mail..I can help ya JPH

Stry: On the mix: 1095 is simple, plain, nothing added as close as you can get to shear steel, steel there is. If you weld up anything with any additional elements in the alloy that can effect the etching you will get a distinct patterning. L-6 will give the most contrast of the more commonly available steel, followed by O-1. A-203D/E while a high Ni steel is NOT hardenable so that should be taken into consideration. Now I use a lot of L-6 and 10XX series mixes, along with a lot of weird stuff from time to time. I take it you are just starting out on this.. If this is the case are you very VERY comfortable in your ability to weld? If so...then drop me a line and I might be able to help you out..if NOT, then you need to learn how first and then start in on the pattern welding. I start folks out welding mild steel to mild steel and then after a piece is done I cut it in half, once half is sectioned on my bandsaw to see how the welds are and the other half, we try to "pop apart" If you are in need of some help in welding, also feel free to drop me a line as well... welding isn't all that difficult, just takes some time, practice and attention to detail. But if you never seen it done it can be as frustrating as can be for someone starting out.. Good luck.. JPH

Sandpile: Thank you for the offer, but on something like this I want to know exactly what I am dealing with. I for one, when I am dealing with this much force, well..voodoo metallurgy is not my idea of safe. All in all I will be making dies this next week, had a few pieces to get out to pay the usual tariffs around this place. On the press, I have found that the bark on the faggots is, well nastier than the usual mill scale. This stuff is more tenacious than a terrier. Eats fresh belts for breakfast. Still even with the added PITA of the more stubborn bark, old Julius is still saving me about 1 hour a blade so far and I have yet to tap into the "mainline" as they say in using this thing to its fullest potential. This press makes dimensional forging a snap, all I do is set the limit switches and hit the pedal and a squeeze later, there it is. Smooth as pond water on a calm day... So the first matter of busines will be centre rib dies, after that some dies to make my warhammer and axe heads a bit easier to forge out. I am starting to have some fun with the beast.. JPH

Howdy!! I finally found some die steel (thanks to Jim Joyce from the CBA) and it is on the way!! Got two chunks of S-7 which should work ok I hope...that will be enough for two sets of dies.. Now I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.. JPH

Candid: well the 12" would be ideal for what I have in mind as for a center rib die all I would have to do is run the end mill down the center lengthwise and I would have the proper alignment when I whack it into 2 6" pieces. Would be easier that way.. But if all I can find is 6" long pieces I could do it one at a time I guess. Depends upon what I can find..no luck as yet really..found one place that wants like $100.00 US for a piece that size..Sigh... JPH

Castle: What ever I want to use it for...All it is, well is shear, pure power/force. So far I have been puttering about with pattern flattening in laminate, fullering and centre ribs. enough puttering to know that my spring tooling will NOT work under it for several reasons, the big one is alaignment. So I will have to make dedicated dies for it. No big deal if I can FIND what I need. Candid: well, the reason I want D-2 is I "know" that steel and this is what I used for the die material for my spring dies I am using now...Methinks that I might have better luck trying a different steel The size I need is 3" x2" x 12"...this will give me enough material to make a top and bottom die that are identicle (mirror reverses) and if I design the plate correctly I can do sping laoded a captured die and well, have as close a tolerence as I can get...No off set cross sections... As for impact, these isn't any, the ram moves about 2" a second, it is more stress loading than impact. So I think I might look for H-13, 414X or something similar, as I am having no luck finding D-2 at a decent price or the size I need.. The first dies I will be making will be centre rib dies for spears, swords and daggers, followed by a 1/2" tennon die and then the fullering dies. The amount of control, even "free style" without the limit switches is amazing. Talk about an even surface... JPH

Hello: Yeah I am squish things,,,boy can it...it's scarey all that power but now I have to make new dies and all..I was hoping that I would be able to use the dies I already have but no...seems that the regular "spring dies" that i use are not suitable for a press..it makes the impressions off center. Sigh Anywayone know where I could get a deal on some D-2 that's like 3" wide and 2" thick??? JPH

Julian: Ok.on the drifts..I have made a couple dozen of these in all sorts of sizes..I used old truck axles. These are usually a 60 pt C steel and well, get yourself down to a wrecking yard and look around. While you are there get yourself some dead leaf springs for edge inserts as well. Now, make it a tapered oval, this way it will allow for the head to stay in one place and not spin around like it would if you left it round. There really is no need to heat treat these as they do get pretty warm, at least they do when I am making axes as I make like 8 or 10 at a time. If you get stuck, drop me a note..be more than happy to help you out. JPH

Well I got it all put together, greased up, topped off the hydraulic fluid and stopped all the leaks I could find and fired the puppy up. Ok..first impression is it is slow...but that is not a bad thing with this much raw power. The amount of control is to me amazing when comapred to my LG. My first thoughts about using this in conjunction with my LG for drawing I feel are correct. I think this will do a better job as a "final dimension" tool than my LG could be. This and the fact that using the limit switches and foot pedal I can pretty much "dial in" the size I want. Keeping the faggot straight is very easy as well as maintaining uniform thickness. Much easier than with my LG, which figures given the limit switches. I feel this is much more accurate than an air hammer. This should allow me even greater control as far as patterning. Now I am thinking out all sorts of dies for this thing. I see a lot of versatility in this beast. Over all...it works!! JPH Here's a pic (ok it's pretty grainy but what the heck) of my press that I just named Julius Squeezer.... Caption should read...after 11 years...it's done. Edit: photo posted on request.

Blueprint??? Oh no...this is a "build as ya go" thing...I just slapped the frame together out of some really heavy I beam...welding the xxxxxxxxx out of it and built a big "O" with all sorts of re-enforcements and other goodies...This is more of a jigsaw puzzle than anything. All and all, it is done, it works so all I have left to do is leak stoppage and then figure it out as far as what to do with the thing. I do see a lot of potential...it is a lot of power... JPH Edit: words edited