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Posts posted by Arthur210
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Stand for my 157# Wilkinson Dudley anvil. Legs are 4.5" diameter tubes filled with sand. I will use the handles on each side as hammers and tongs rack, as will as attachement points for bike chain hold down. The short lengths of tubes at the corners will eventually host small remkveable shelves to lay down tools.
The underside of the stand is reinforced with welded webbings.
The stand weighs a bit over 100# and is rock solid. I laid transparent silicone caulking between the anvil and stand, so no ringing at all.
When I need to move it around the shop, I will use a set of snowmobile rollers. Much easier than dragging it around!
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Yep, I plan on filling the legs with sand.
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A new to me anvil, purchased from a fellow local smith who had one too many. The markings are very faint, but he's had it identified as a Wilkinson Dudley.
Only has a few dings on the face and a bit of sway. Marked at 157#, which is almost double what my current anvil is. Plus it has a horn, which my current anvil is short on.
I see a nice stand for it in a close future. Just put it on that small stump to take pictures.
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C'est pour un contexte d'activité médiévales, alors le but était d'être le plus fidèle possible aux pinces Mastermyr, dont les poignées sont rondes. Je trouve aussi ça plus confortable.
The tongs were made for a medieval recreation context and the objective was to have them as close as possible to the Mastermyr ones, that have round reins. I also find them more comfortable.
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Thanks SLAG.
blacksmith-450, yes it took a few hours to draw out those reins. I learned that I need to heat the steel to bright yellow to have it move faster.
Overall the tongs too me about 10 hours to make. Next one should be faster, as I now have a better sense of how curved the jaws need to be.
Nice bottle opener, btw. Very clean lines.
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Sending positive energy his way.
Arthur
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Helena, it makes it easier for you to locate the one you need for a specific use. Otherwise you need to lift each one until you find the right one.
Thomas, I did mark the ends of the inscribed lines with a center punch before chiseling.
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Five months since the last time I lit up the forge, so I took it easy and made some simple things. A dozen tent stakes and a pair of bottle openers from small cuts of 3/8" square.
The top one took a lot longer to make. Chiseling those lines before the twist was time-consuming, but it was good practice.
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Indeed, I will be careful with that. Doesn't look like it, as there are some areas where rust is starting to come through the paint, but I will double check.
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The hole runs the whole length. I have two shorter pieces which were broken and the hole is there.
I don't know how easy they would be to forge weld. From what I could find out they're (probably) made of 95CrMo.
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What did you do in the shop today?
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
I got lazy and used my electric welder.
Never done any forge welding, so I didn't feel that attempting it on a fairly delicate piece like this (it is made from 1/4" square stock) was a good way to start.
Riveting didn't seem practical either (not a lot of space between the turns). I could have tried using collars (or wire), but was worried the pieces would not be secure enough and would twist. Plus the surface wouldn't be flat.
I am happy with the result, but I feel like it took a long time to get reasonably even spirals. I used only a small hammer and scrolling tongs. I should make a spiral template before I make more like this.
Overall, a pleasant and relaxing morning.