Dylan Sawicki

Nope. Look up Wayne Coe (I think that's his name) on google. He sells Kastolite-30 that's what you should use. But don't layer it over the other cement, wait till the other stuff come's off. Also you should cover the Kastolite with an IR reflective like Plistix (also sold by Wayne Coe). Now keep in mind that I haven't built a gas forge (hopefully I will soon), But this is what Frosty and Mikey seem to recommend I'm sure they will reply also, hope this help's  

Dylan Sawicki

Look up the no weld grinder, great set of plans for a grinder. Very easy to make its how I made mine (I welded mine though). Buy them (either download or by physical plans and ship.) from USA knife maker that's where I got mine.

Hope this helps

Thanks nice to meet you too, I made a spoon on Friday using one of the NEB's swage block's of course. Sadly I didn't end up with the drill press. I almost have enough for the swage block just gotta wait until I have a little bit more money. Can't wait

JLP That's a really nice job you did on that swage block, Make's me wanna get one even more

Wow that's really cool! May I ask how you did the hat.

nvm just saw your other post on page 43

Sadly no hopefully I will tomorrow.

Made my first hot cut hardy today,  Brazeal style. Forged from 1 3/8 4140. First time I made something with a striker before, my striking anvil worked pretty well.

Made a Brian Brazeal style hot cut hardy. Forged from 1 3/8 4140, Now I have all the tools to make a HAMMER!!! So I'll make one this week or next week!

Made my first hardy tool today on my new striking anvil that I finished on Friday before the NEB meet. A bottom fuller forged from 1 3/8 round 4140

Nice punch! but i'm concerned about the angle of the tip it looks a little too pointy you may want to test it. Otherwise looks great.

Swedefiddle I'll add it if I have to so far its been fine. I'll keep using it this way for a while and decide if I have to.

Lou L Ok after re-reading your question I understand it. No I did not put gussets in I don't even know what they are the tube is just welded on and its holding up just fine.

I'm not sure what you mean but i'll post a picture of how everything is mounted a little later.

Finished my vise stand today and its awesome . The tube is 4" with 1/4 wall thickness and both the plates are 1/4 as well. Here's some pics

Thanks for the tip SLAG I'll use the African Blackwood that I have. Got some work done on my vise stand its almost done just have to add the top plate.

Made some progress on a knife I've been working on. It's looking really cool so far. Now I just have to decide on wood African black wood or Cocobolo.

I got a good  pretty good 150 pound old english anvil for that price. But for a beginner that's not a bad deal

I made a bottle opener drift from 4140 and two bottle openers.

I've used several spring fullers that were just forged flat and bent mild steel. No need for work hardening or quenching. 

I agree this i the best anvil stand ever! When I fabricate a steel anvil stand I'm totally going to add the tubes for tool trays stock, stock holders, Most versatile anvil stand ever.   

Thanks C-1! They were fun to make.

Yeah just a little bit but the other one is a little to long so it make this one appear short.

Here a pic of the other side. Both are 4140 by the way.

Here are two hammer eye punches I made. The one on the right I made last week and the other one I finished today. The one on the right was the first hammer eye punch that I have made. But it came out a little small and is the perfect size for other punches, fullers hatchets. So I used it to make the other one. The handles are ash.

I believe that would date it 1916-1917. If I am correct 

Nice I like it, can't wait to see it finished!