RaggedEarth

thank you everyone for your tips and advice. I think I have come to the conclusion then, that the work that I have done on the horn has not been at an adequate heat. I am brand spanking new to propane forges and I don't think my forge it getting as hot as it should and I have also been forging in full sunlight, while i construct the cover for my work area, and misjudging the color. All in all it sounds like this is a case of incorrect assumptions and user error. Thank you everyone for helping me you!

My thoughts were to create a heat sink with blocks of aluminum or wrap everything but the horn with a soaked towel. But again I really have no idea if that would work as I certainly don't have experience with such large chunks of steel, so I'm not sure what that transfer percentage would be between sections.

So I have been a blacksmith for about 5 years now, but cut my teeth at a living history museum, so I have had access to old but albeit quality blacksmithing tools. I moved away from the museum and no longer have access to its workshop, so I have started my own workshop in my home. I purchased the 112# cavalry anvil by NC tools, as it was the best bang for the buck that I could find. I have no problem with the face, but as I found out, the horn is not at all heat treated. This it "on purpose" according to NC Tools but its so soft that it gets chewed up by normal forging of hot steel. Now, on to the question. Is it possible to re-heat treat an anvil, or even a section of an anvil. Or is there a company that has this ability? Could it at least be case hardened somehow. I know full well that the answer to my question is most likely either NO or "if you have the money" But im really hoping to hear some opinions that have not occured to me. Thank you guys and gals in advance for your help! Also, Does anyone know the alloy of NC Tools anvils?

I'm hoping this hasn't been asked a lot before. But I am hoping to get into high end kitchen utensils. I want to be able to make spatulas, ladles, coffee scoops and the like, with copper working ends. I would love to skip some expensive trial and error on what a good gage of copper sheet to start with is for utensil making. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Awesome man, unfortunately I can only be there on Saturday. I wish I could have entered in the competition but alas it was not meant to be. Hope to see you there man!

I will be going, I will be there with some o the other smiths from Pioneer Farms!

Awesome, thank you. I will keep that in mind next time I take a crack at bottle openers.

That looks awesome! Is the blade just the spike or did you forge weld in a HC bit?

I have only been smithing for around 3 months and I finally got around to making a bottle opener! My last name is Patton so i made it in the shape of a P (or I tried)

Hey, new to IFI here. I actually created my profile so I could respond to this post...seven months later... but anywho. Since so much time has passed you may have already gotten an answer but if you haven't, that a wheelwrites anvil right there! From what I have been told they are pretty rare. That is the kind of anvil I learned on (at a living museum) and we would have collectors come by and offer to buy it about once a week. I hope you were able to grab it! Greetings from Austin Texas!