NFLIFe

Hello all, So, I've got a cheap anvil. I knew it was cheap the day I got it, but it was a gift, so I didn't complain (it's a harbor freight 55 lb... I believe it is made out of a dense cheese). But now, after my first dozen or so projects, it is so pitted and beat up that it is impacting the quality of my work. Plus, there are some techniques I see online that I try, and they typically work, but in the end I have such a dent in the anvil that I don't want to try it again. My question is, would it be worth getting a piece of good quality steel, cutting it to shape, and welding it to the cheap anvil's face? Or should I just start from scratch either building or shopping for a used one? (no way I can afford a new one any better than I have, not this soon after the holidays)

Yeah, thanks guys for all the advice... sorry for the curse earlier, I just type how I talk sometimes (which is sometimes done rather quickly, as I'm often on the throne, and my butt goes numb after a few minutes). I just want to clarify again though, this was just something I cobbled together out of scraps while I was making a knife. I never set out to make a spear, I just looked at the left over chisel nub after setting the rest of the blade to cool and thought "I bet I could make a little spear out of that" and started hammering. Prior to that I'd never researched or intended to make a spear. Since I thought this little toy turned out cool, I did go watch some videos on spear forging and determined that I didn't yet have the tools for it; but that it was certainly possible in the near future (indeed, the tools for making a spear head seem easier to make or acquire than the stuff I currently am lacking for knife finishing and handle making)... After reaching this determination, I made the OP you can see here. So, when I said "going to try spear making again, the right way, once I get the proper equipment" it was a statement of fact, not one of defeat... and when I posted this here, it was not to say "look at this amazing spear I made, there is no way I can make a better one until I win the lotto"; but more along the lines of "hey I just cobbled this together half on accident, it came out prettier than I had hoped for, and now I'm interested in spear making." And no worries lads, no one is charging into battle with this rake handled little guy... In fact, the lady and I have determined it will make a cool curtain rod/conversation piece in the den.

Yeah... I mean, 30 second in he's using tools I don't have... I get it, I can make them, but one thing at a time. , just delete this thread I guess. Sorry guys. Foul language is not permitted on IFI

Well, it could just be my ignorance, but I have no idea how I would make a solid socket with just my hammer, tongs and anvil (which is the totality of what I have aside from the fire part). I've seen tutorials where you just sort of wrap and weld (technically I don't have the stuff to weld either, but I can visit my buddy's shop for that), but even that leaves an opening where the socket and blade meet.... Not to mention, I have only one set of tongs currently, that makes any project where I don't have a long extension "handle" difficult until I have it hammered to fit the set that I have. With the wrap and weld technique that seems like it could be problematic. And again, this was just screwing around with some scraps, wasn't trying to brag.

This started out as a half round file... I don't know if it was hard to get it into shape because it started out as a semicircular shaped object, or if it is simply that small, thin knives are more challenging than the big choppers I've been making... But this thing's size is no tell of how hard of a time it gave me, nor the sense of accomplishment it gives me as a baby knife maker to be able to say that I hand forged my latest edc knife (which fits better in pocket than a thick bodied pen). And look at the snakeskin pattern the half round file gave it! I figured it would be an uggo when I first started hammering it into a square rod... but it ain't bad compared to some of my others.

So I was making a Christmas gift out of an old chisel with a rotted handle. After drawing out and finishing the blade, I was left with the round socket and a short but rather thick "nub" from the base of the chisel. I knew the socket was a bit small for a spear, but in between cooling period from other projects I started drawing out the nub into a blade. I didn't think it had enough metal to make a normal looking spear head, but as always, there was plenty once I started getting it flat. As it happened, I also had a broken rake from this year's fall cleanup in the shed, and its handle fit nearly perfectly into the socket. So, I sanded it, hit it with the torch to give it an aged look, then rubbed in a little stain, and pinned the head on. The end product isn't exactly what I'd call battle ready (really only because of the comparatively flimsy rake handle, the head is solid, if only a little small)... But for something that took an hour of my time (not counting tempering, obviously) and is literally made out of my garbage, I'm actually pretty tickled about how it came out. DEFINITELY going to try spear making again, the right way, once I get the proper equipment.

I think I'll do that on the future^ So, it sounds like I need a metal pipe that roughly matches my handle... Wrap, weld, HT&t, then put it on the handle. I'll report back once I'm done screwing it up :-)

I recently finished hammering out an old RR spike into a thin hawk head. I've read articles and seen videos where you wrap the axe head band directly on to the wood handle, then weld where the metal meets. My question is, what about heat treating and tempering? Are you supposed to remove the axe head after welding? In the videos I've seen they never discuss how the heat treat and tempering is accomplished... They just show the guy wrapping the head, then usually cut to the finished axe. I tried googling this question to get a better video or article... But most the results were about wrapping paper or Ragnar Lothbrok.

I was realizing what you're talking about with the knife I'm currently finishing... It's much smaller, making the metal easier to work with smaller blows; but even still, I've gotten it much flatter than this one turned out to be by using little love taps after getting the shape right.

Ha, yeah I like the ugly, mean looking ones... That, and I don't yet have a flatting hammer lol I actually didn't plan on it being a shark like knife from the beginning... I was experimenting with my "seax-kukri" yard work/chopper design, and added the mild drop point. After adding the serrations the shape reminded me so much of a shark that I had to do the fish tail grip (although I killed the balance in doing so).

I might do that for now... But once I get a drill press in going to steal it back and go for a blue-green g10 scale grip... Stick with the aquatic look.

After joining the forum and reading up on heat treating, I realized I was jumping the gun with my blowtorch and cinder block ghetto forge... A few knives I was making might have turned out okay through luck, but others have broken or cracked in testing. Anyway, here is my return to the hammer after getting a real propane forge set up and using heat treating information found here. I suppose you could call it a Bowie if sorts, but I'm calling it a Haimesser ('sharknife'). Although I'm calling it a Christmas gift for my little brother, after putting a handle on it, of course.

I cannot imagine living my life as an irrigation mechanic with a sword in my belt.... It'd get awkward. That said, I've often wondered why it is unacceptable for me to carry a belt knife (like a 4 to 5" blade). That would be incredibly helpful on a daily basis, and I don't see how that is a scary weapon when compared to a shovel, wrench, etc.

Nice... The handle shape looks great, must feel super secure in hand with the way it wraps around

Sounds good... Although I'll admit I try to avoid NYC normally (I have a buddy who got arrested by NYPD for carrying a multi tool... I can't imagine what they'd do to me if they looked in my truck!) Do the local laws get in the way it forging at all? I've been told you can't even keep large blades at home in some of the boroughs.

Haha... I can't say I'm much more refined. Old North Fork, LI farm family trees tend to resemble pachysandra patches on paper. Not the dagger in question here though, that's a blue blood!

Thanks I'll check them out. I've been reading "the complete bladesmith"... Great information, but it definitely doesn't cater to those on a low budget.

Personally, I'd care more about how it holds up than how it looks. I also very much agree with the sentiment that non structural flaws show handmade character... But only so far as the pricetag can justify.

That's pretty... Makes my first few knives look like a family of inbred savages.

Hey all, I posted these in my intro post, sorry if you saw them already. These are all made from old files (w2 tool steel so far as I can tell). They're a bit rough, but currently my finishing equipment is limited to just an angle grinder. Leather lace grips are also simple, but they work well and required no additional purchases on my part. This was my first... The inspiration was from studying HEMA knife fighting techniques; so the edge I isn't the sharpest, but it has a strong stabbing point and a slight back curve that facilitates trapping and controlling your opponent's limbs. duplicate post removed as SPAM

Not sure about ABANA. Might be, considering the arts and farts community out in the Hamptons... Not many bladesmiths I would guess though (the culture here is very anti-everything-cool). I plan on building a coal or propane forge over the winter, but that may be a ways off. I find it amazing how you can forge a knife with minimal equipment and it will be perfectly serviceable... But yet if you want something just a little bit nicer, you could spend $10k on tools and still want for more. Any advice for quick and simple sheath making? I can't decide if I should start with kydex or leather... As always for me, I value function over style.

I have the 55 lb harbor freight anvil... It works okay for the money, I suppose; but after 2 solid months of forging, mine already looks more beat up than grandpas 100+ yr old anvil. Then again, I got it for free, so I'm not complaining.

Hello everyone, Beginner knife maker/blacksmith here posting from the last remaining bit of "rural" long island, NY. I'm an Air Force veteran, and currently a ditch digger by day... But by night, many other things. Recently, I've been getting into blade smithing. Right now my setup involves a propane torch stuck in a metal cylinder, hammer, anvil, and an angle grinder for finishing. These are my first three successful knives (I botched the heat treating on two others that didn't hold up to stress testing). All of them are made from old files or chisels, 90% sure they are w2 tool steel. This first one I call my "grapplers knife." No real inspiration for this one, other than wanting a nice strong stabbing blade with a slight back curve to facilitate HEMA techniques that involve trapping wrists/limbs. This second one is sort of a seax/mini-machete/work knife, thick spine and grind, tough temper. My inspiration here was the Anglo broken spine seax along with the kukri work knife (hence slight forward bend and balance) Doesn't take a sharp edge, but it withstands chopping/hacking like a blade twice it's size. Lastly, is the little gem I hammered out last night. The blade is roughly similar to the air force survival knife, but is much lighter and thinner. I made this one as sort of a joke gift for my girl, who has been very concerned about clown attacks. As you can see, all of my knives are a simple full tang, leather wrapped handle design, and all made out of found steel so far. In the future, I'd like to learn forge welding and make cable forged work and fighting knives with stacked leather military style grips... Of course I'm currently lacking the equipment, time, and knowledge to do so. Enjoy, -Josh