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Found 6 results

  1. Benton Frisse

    Viking Era Blacksmithing Class

    Took a Viking Era Blacksmithing class taught by Mr. Elmer Roush a few weeks ago. Great class! We went over mammen pattern axes, spears, arrowheads, and some other pattern axes. I was able to forge a large spear (my favorite exercise from the class), a mammen pattern axe, a mess of arrowheads (none of which I was super proud of, need more practice with those), and I managed to squeak in a tomahawk on the last day for fun! Great class, great facilities at John C. Campbell Folk School, great FOOD, and a truly inspiring, down to earth, helpful instructor and assistant. I can't wait to go back and learn more from Elmer. I've never forged a spear before but I think I truly enjoyed forging the spear more than I do axes, tomahawks, knives, or whatever. What a fun process! The spear, hawk, and axe are all A36 with 1095 welded cutting edges and bits. The arrowheads are all mild. Thanks for looking! Moderators, I put this in historical based on the title, my apologies if it is improperly located!
  2. So I was making a Christmas gift out of an old chisel with a rotted handle. After drawing out and finishing the blade, I was left with the round socket and a short but rather thick "nub" from the base of the chisel. I knew the socket was a bit small for a spear, but in between cooling period from other projects I started drawing out the nub into a blade. I didn't think it had enough metal to make a normal looking spear head, but as always, there was plenty once I started getting it flat. As it happened, I also had a broken rake from this year's fall cleanup in the shed, and its handle fit nearly perfectly into the socket. So, I sanded it, hit it with the torch to give it an aged look, then rubbed in a little stain, and pinned the head on. The end product isn't exactly what I'd call battle ready (really only because of the comparatively flimsy rake handle, the head is solid, if only a little small)... But for something that took an hour of my time (not counting tempering, obviously) and is literally made out of my garbage, I'm actually pretty tickled about how it came out. DEFINITELY going to try spear making again, the right way, once I get the proper equipment.
  3. I just finished my second darkhouse spear. I also forged a new set of tines for my heavy duty spear. I ended up welding in the wedge because it was giving me some trouble but it works great now.
  4. Over All Length, 5-1/2 feet long and the spear head is made if 3/8 inch thick steel. The spearhead is my Stock Removal project, I hand made the jute rope wrapped around the top quarter to cover the bolts that secure the steel to the wood and add texture. At the shoulders, the spear head is 4 inches across. I screwed a steel ring to the shaft at the bottom that can be used for a myriad of reasons. Now its time for Beta Testing! I’m gong to put it through a car door, a wooden dorm and anything else I can find. I may give it to a friend who is an enormous Strongman/Powerlifter and see how much damage he can do with it. I’ve recently started experimenting with etching, I used PCB etchant from Radio Shack on another blade, the results were nice. I am going to etch my next spear, however I want to make the spearhead black. To get the same high-contrast that the folks over at Zombie Tools use. I think they also use ETEC-502 somewhere along the process. Any advice and constructive criticism is appreciated. Example: Thanks, Kwisatz
  5. So I was lucky to get just under a dozen of these cheapo chipping hammers from WELDMATE. These are chinese made, and simply stamped into shape. They are soft enough that a file bites relatively easily into the tip. So I don't think that they're quality high carbon. But they're not soft either and they hold their tips relatively well. I was able to forge one of them into a pretty decent spear head. I haven't tried hardening any yet just cause of time and not having access to any flame since the holidays. So I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with these things before? Worth harding and using for tool bits? or just for ornamental stuff? Any clue as to what the composition is? I'll attach three pictures. The last one will be of the spear head I made out of one of them. Thanks
  6. I am making a version or Prince Naulas Magic Spear this week. Yes, THAT Prince Naula. From Hellboy 2: The Golden Army. I was given a lawnmower blade so & cut, sanded, sanded more, and came up with what you see in the picture. The 16.9 oz water bottle was added for scale. The entire blade measures 13 inches long. Of that, 4 inches will be embedded into the wood. The wood will be carved to approximately 22 inches long x 3.25 inches wide x .75 inches thick. I am using wood that I think is too long because i am going to be able to keep trimming it back until the balance feels right. The original http://www.nitrocomi...es/39104023.jpg My version: The handle I am carving by hand to look something like this, but with burned in filigree http://www.handaxepr...aded/FS1201.jpg Inserting the blade into the wood using this method http://www4.gvsu.edu...nifemaking1.htm However I will be using two, 2 inch Chicago Screws like these to secure it instead of a but cap. http://ak.buy.com/PI...0/218913383.jpg Then making something out of leather decorative to cover the part where the wood meets metal, this http://i964.photobuc...er/75221e7a.jpg http://i964.photobuc...er/ca0ad10f.jpg I am going to Temper and Anneal next. My plan is to temper it in the forge as evenly as I can until its “straw yellow” then quench in motor oil, three times. Then bake it in the oven at 400 degrees and let it cool overnight, three times. Why three times? I am shamelessly going to copy Stormcrows technique and see how it comes out. Questions for you all: 1) I am “guesstimating” that the 4 inches and two, 2 inch Chicago Screws will be deep enough to support the weight of the blade. 2) Should I add epoxy when i insert it or is that overkill? Suggested brands? 3) I can already tell that sharpening this is not going to be easy or fun. I’d like to sharpen it before i mount it. Any advice on how to get a good sharpening with just my hand tools and a few table clamps? I want to get it as even as I can over the entirety of all four edges. Thank you for any input!