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I Forge Iron

EAlger

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Everything posted by EAlger

  1. Thank you Latticino for the reply. I'll give that a try. Ed..
  2. Thank you Frosty, What you propose sounds pretty good to me. I removed the cast from the mold today. Gotta find a release better than cooking spray. I have the casting in front of the fireplace hearth at 98 degs. In a couple of days, I'll use our toaster oven and bake at a couple hundred degrees. The oven has a very good temperature resolution. I'll work with this floor casting before trying to cast the door baffles. Plan to use Kast-o-Lite 26 and 30. Ed...
  3. I've cast a floor for my forge using Mizzou. It's 1/2" thick, 4" wide and 11" long. It's still in the form. I've read the instructions for curing Mizzou which will take days. Besides, don't have a way of measuring temperatures above 500 deg say less at 75 deg per step. Can someone give me an alternate curing method? Ed...
  4. Axner Pottery list at least 10 different types of Kaolin? Is there a preferred type/brand?
  5. Thanks Mikey for the ideas. I'm glad I didn't rush things along before asking questions. It's gonna snow tonight and be just above freezing so my project will wait a couple of days. However, mean while I'll make a mold for the floor. Thanks, Ed..
  6. Mikey, so I had planned to use Mizzou for my floor, but I could us Kast-o-lite 30. So curved, top and bottom? Crescent moon shaped with pointed ends to meld into the wool? The floor could then be thicker in the middle? Or just flat sides and uniform thickness resting on the curve of the ridgedized wool? Ed...
  7. Frosty, I have some linoleum; might give that some thought. Mikey, the floor is probably not a problem. I'm planning on trying to cast front bricks, the lower one would have a 3" W x 2" D notch in a 4-1/4 x 3 x 8 brick. I've lots of material to make forms. The upper brick; 4-1/4 x 3 x 8. (Using your Kast-o-Lite layer idea. As an outside layer, I could add some Perlite mixed with Sodium Silicate I have.) Does the face of Kast-o-Lite 30 cast brick need a wash? Ed...
  8. My Mizzou and Cast-o-lite 30 and 26 came in the mail and I'm waiting for the temperature to get above 30. My plan is to cast a Mizzou floor and cast a couple of front bricks. I saw your append, Mikey, about your thought of using layers of Cast-o-lite 30 and 20 for a brick. Need to do some welding on the legs. The snow came in and interrupted my progress.
  9. I didn't call all the listed stores in Fort Collins, but the many I did review held pottery making instruction classes in homes and barns. Perhaps I wasn't diligent enough in this regard.
  10. Thanks all for the suggestions on cutting a kiln shelf. I wouldn't have a problem cutting, I think. My problem was the $$ getting the shelf material. One internet pottery supplier wanted $168.50 to handle, crate, and ship a $45 shelf... That's probably an extreme. To go to Denver is a 140 mile round trip in traffic and I'm not up to that anymore. When the Mizzou arrives, I'll try and cast a floor and see how that works.
  11. Thank you all who have written informed and interesting things. I'm at the entry point of my learning curve in this subject. All ideas and suggestions are welcomed. I've always bought the best tools I could afford and taught my boys to do the same. I made a couple of uninformed starts in this project. However, finding this forum totally changed my thoughts about the building process. I mentioned that I felt that my forge use would be limited but if any of my past experiences prove helpful, I must build something that would prove worthy. When I built my first canoe, I bought the tools. Now I'm on my 4th. Who needs 4 canoes? I'm most grateful for the knowledge I've assimilated so far. Keep your thoughts coming. I'll post pictures when I'm finished. Ed...
  12. Latticino, thank you. The floor would be opposite the burner port as I have it set about 20 deg off vertical with some adjustment available. HighTempTools can provide 5 pound bags each Kast-o-lite and Mizzou so I may do that. Ed...
  13. Latticino, thanks for the info. HighTempTools.com has both Missou and Kast-O-Lite 26 and 30 in quantities I could use. Not sure that these materials might also be used to cast a couple of bricks/blocks to shield the forge openings? Ed...
  14. MF, no pottery supplies nearby us. Must go 60 miles to Denver. Masonary blades and diamond wheels for the Dremel I have. At 81 years, my nerves aren't what they use to be so cutting with a chisel may be fun. I can find kiln shelves on the internet OK. The problem is to the shelf cost there's a $ huge packing and shipping fee!
  15. Thanks Frosty for replying. My forge is going to have limited use. I didn't think far enough ahead about the floor. What I read in this forum about the use of floors seemed pretty casual so I didn't think too much about it. My Bad... Even if I managed to get a piece of high alumina shelf from the internet, I'd have to travel 60 miles to Denver to get it cut. I need an alternative solution that might last the couple of dozen firings of some small pieces of tool steel. Ed...
  16. My forge build will be used to heat treat tool steel for wood turning tools. The forge will be about 125 cu-in heated with a Frosty 1/2" T-Burner. Insulated using 2 layers of 1" Kaowool and rigidized. The kaowool will be treated with Plistex. I suppose the use of a floor would be well. My reading in this forum gives info for High Alumina Shelves $$. For my limited use of the forge, I'm open to alternative materials? 1, Mullite Shelf material as an alternative to High Alumina? 2. How is this material cut to size? I don't have access to a tile saw? Ed...
  17. My forge build will be used to heat treat tool steel for wood turning tools. The forge will be about 125 cu-in heated with a Frosty 1/2" T-Burner. Insulated using 2 layers of 1" Kaowool and rigidized. The kaowool will be treated with Plistex. I suppose the use of a floor would be well. My reading in this forum gives info for High Alumina Shelves. For my limited use of the forge, I'm open to alternative materials? 1, Mullite Shelf material?
  18. Ahh Mikey, thank you so much for the tutorial . When I mixed Cabosil with my epoxy, I just added the filler until the epoxy felt thick enough. As a rigidizer, I can see now that it'll take a little more experimentation. Thanks, Ed...
  19. Somewhere on this forum I read for a rigidizer to mix 1 cup of Colloidal Silica with 1 gal of water and spritz. Does this sound right about the right proportions? Ed...
  20. Thanks Mickey for the information. I've been using Colloidal silica for years and I didn't know it! Colloidal silica is also known as Cabosil which I've been using as an epoxy filler on my canoes. For a 2 layer blanket application, I assume that each layer, as applied, wants a spritz of Colloidal silica, curing as applied?
  21. Mickey, regarding your entry " Using Silica Based Rigidizer", I'm having a hard time visualizing inserting the "Rigidized" blanket into the forge shell? I'm guessing that by "permanent shape" that it would still be flexible enough to get it fitted inside the forge shell? By Silica Based rigidizer, do you mean Fumed Silica, Sodium Silicate, ?? After I understand about Rigidizing, I would add Plistex 900 over the exposed areas, and burner port area, and add an Alumina Kiln Shelf. Ed..
  22. Ah, very well Frosty. Thank you very much. I had to ask because there's lots I don't know about building a forge! I'll ask about Kiln Wash and Kiln Shelving but have to find the right thread... Ed...
  23. Regarding the "Frosty T Burner Build" PDF: The build states, "All the ratios are derived from the pipe Diameter". I'd like to know if this refers to the pipe ID or the pipe OD? Mikey98118 stated: "You normally use nine times the inside diameter of the tube body...", in his treatise on Burners 101. He didn't state that this applied directly to the T Burner, however. Ed...
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