Judson Yaggy

There are some issues with that design.  

Hand forging can take many years to a lifetime to perfect, and a power hammer won't help much if you don't know how to hand forge.  While taking the year(s) of practice needed to learn hand forging I am sure you will meet a friend with a commercially produced power hammer.  Learn from proven designs.  Please don't get hurt or frustrated with your home built.  

On a more positive note, nice wood shop. 

Yup, triangle swage is the best way.  You can also forge a round taper, set it into the step of the anvil horn, and forge the taper with a cross pien and drive the round stock into the V of the step.  

1 hour ago, GrumpyBiker said:

I had an hour before my wife would have dinner on the table so I only got this to the halfway point.

It took you an hour to drink half a beer?  You should try harder! (grin)  Nice opener.  Next project should be a cork screw for her bottle of wine for when you make dinner, that will make you VERY popular if you know what I mean.  

Wanted to give a heads-up about the forging contest Saturday night (after the membership meeting) at the meet next weekend. 

Teams of two will have one hour to forge a trivet. Overall design will be up to the teams, but it will have to meet minimum size requirements of at least 6” across and 1.25” tall. As with many previous contests, bonus points will be awarded for best design, use of forge welds, teams of strangers and teams with at least one beginner. Green coal tools and materials will be available for use, but if you have special tools or stock you want to use you should bring your own. No power drills allowed.

Forging contests are a ton of fun, I hope you will consider playing!  If you want to be involved, see me at the meet.

9 hours ago, Fatfudd said:

Since Moloch and Murray hammers were significant upgrades to the original Little giant hammers they are pretty nearly bullet proof.

True. Because of that, nice score!

On 9/7/2017 at 10:04 AM, Steve Sells said:

Either you want to forge weld or you do not.  Stop being so cheap, and buy the Borax to prevent scaling, it is not expensive and the little risk of loosing $3 for a a kilo is not that great. they have better ways of stealing money then with a low cost item like borax

Having been to India and talked to smiths there, I can say that $3 US can be a SERIOUS amount of money to some over there.  Borax is not a requirement for forge welding so if he wants to find his own way without it let's encourage and advise rather than criticize. 

6 hours ago, JHCC said:

I vote for confident seabirds -- in no uncertain terns!

You must be puffin on something to come up with that one!  Of course it's better than inconfident seabirds, that turns things into a slippery slope. 

I have found that some smaller sawmill bandsaw blades (Woodmizer is the most common in this neck of the woods, around 1 1/4" wide) are already laminated or bimetal and react in interesting ways when forge welding or etching for pattern. Many more layers when looked at closely than the unsuspecting smith would expect.  Less than ideal when pattern welding for looks rather than performance.  

Would not use band saw blade  and pallet strapping as a default recomendation unless you really KNOW what the manufacturer of both is using.  I learned that from the crumdugeons!

Looks like a cast Badger to me, the shape and semi-circular cut out on the feet below the HH are tell-tale.  Tail broken off and repaired obviously.  

The shop I worked in 25 years ago had a production line of curtain rods and hold backs, it was pretty profitable.  The hold backs were mirror image scrolls of 1/4" round stock (one for each side of the window but scrolled in opposite directions) and curled thru about 2 1/2 revolutions.  Then they bent back to the wall in the usual way (kind of like the second photo but with sharper bends), and we used a rounded set tool to forge little dimples that were then driled for screw holes to give a nice little accent to the wall atatchment points.  I must have made 500 of them in the few years I worked there, but it was long enough ago that I have no photos.  

Is the red thing an Edwards?  I've always wanted one of those...

The older Blu's were so-so, suppoedly they have improved the  hose sizes (and other details) to improve things.   I've run power hammers professionall for architectural metalwork, up to 200#.  Mostly antique mechanicals, but some modern and antique utility and self-contained as well, and I was lukewarm on the Blu that I ran.  It was ok, and any hammer is better than no hammer, but for the way I work there are better hammers out there.  YMMV.  Also, do some googling about the design flaw in the quick change sow block.  Don't know if they have adressed that issue yet but if not they should.  

Pics of a railing project, and just because it's cool, a pic of the Camera Obscura projection of the eclipse thru holes my pole barn roof onto a timber frame that I am currently working on.  

On 8/30/2017 at 6:02 PM, 58er said:

First attempt at something architectural. 

Collars and stacked layers of stock always look great!  Well done!

Online registration now available at the NEB website.  See you all there.  I've been asked to again run the forging contest, so if anyone has any ideas or bribery, this is your chance!

Lucian is an amazing smith.  I had the honor of working with him at Richard Spreda's shop in Stowe, Vt  20 years ago.  I learned more from him in 2 years than I had (have) before or since.  

Wish I could have made it on Saturday, was planning on going but life got in the way.  Next time!

On 8/28/2017 at 5:38 PM, Glenn said:

The reason would be the root side down (the way it grows) the system is in place to transfer water or moisture up the stump. Would placing it root side up change that water movement ability? 

Trees pump water and sap both ways.

No difference for knives.  If you ever forge anything heavier, then yes, the extra weight will make hand forging easier.  

2 minutes ago, PaperPatched said:

He also said that in the cause of mutual trust and respect he would abide by the forum rules.  If we start banning people for what they think there might not be nearly as many folks here as there are now. It's actions that we will see that should govern our response.

Well said and I agree.  Often offense to swear words is in the ear of the recipient.  I find it highly dependent on the generation, geographic region, class, religion, or nationality of the offended individual.  If we throw a second or third language into the mix the textual and social quirks of the first language are fairly meaningless.

As long as we play by Glen's rules and apologize when we make a mistake, no need for talk of punishment.  

On the OP, having now seen the photos of the finished product, I don't think he wrecked the anvil.  Shortened the life some?  Yes, when measured in scores or hundreds of years.  But it is HIS anvil, and there are a lot more anvils out there.  Someone who shows a higher level of workmanship in TIG welding and grinding like that will soon figure out what works and what doesn't in regards to anvils and blacksmithing.  If not, one less anvil in the world.  They are making more every day. 

Are you looking to sue or looking to buy?  The answer might tilt our responses.  

6 hours ago, the iron dwarf said:

I visited Kiev in 1992 for a week

Hey!  That's when I was there!  Sadly only for 3 days in May, but they were a glorious 3 days.  Hope to go back some day.  

I can't add anything about the anvil that hasn't already been said, but one that size is a nice find.  Welcome to IFI.

Good!

10 hours ago, Melw45 said:

I scored a 6hp motor for $8.00. I guess it was a surprise to the guy that rang me up.

Electric or gas?  If electric be careful, last I knew 6hp motors only existed in Craftsman brand fantasy shop vacs.  

Pass.  Lower end Vulcan or similar to start with, and then worked past it's usable life.  What's left of the sweet spot/working surface has worn down to just cast iron.  

Chile forges are outstanding in terms of quality and performance.  I have used one professionaly and was very impressed with the performance. Good customer service on the phone as well. I am not affiliated in any way with them, just an honest review.  Never used the other brand, and now I never will, from the photos it looked like quality suffered to make a price point.  

Sometimes the "warm fuzzies" burning off a flanel shirt are the toxic and flamable fabric preservatives sprayed on the fabric during production.  Wash your clothes after buying.