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Found 10 results

  1. Gotta gate I'm getting real close to hanging and I am really struggling with whether I have chose the correct posts to mount to, and whether my concrete hole to support the post will be deep enough. I have tried a few post calculators online but can't find enough information to feel confident in my posts. The gate is 8' tall, 4' wide, and weighs almost 300 lbs. the post I chose to hang the gate on is a 2"x3" structural tube post with a 1/4" wall thickness. On the other side of the post is a 13" wide side panel also 8' tall that is welded to the same post. That panel additionally weighs about 85lbs. My initial plan was to set the posts 30" deep in concrete and hang everything off of the post without tying any tabs or anything into the building. It's a large archway and I'd really like it to be free standing without anything tied to the to the side of the archway to support the post when it's under the load of the gate. From what I'm describing and the pictures do you think I'm overdoing/underdoing it? Will that post set 30" deep in concrete be enough to support all that without sag?? You can see in the picture the posts. The left side is where I am talking. The post will have the gate and side panel mounted on the same post together.
  2. theimi

    photo1.JPG

    made a gate for the owners private home on a wine farm (edgebaston/Stellenbosch)
  3. This project is to replace an existing old chain link entry gate for a volunteer community garden with a fabricated, more artistic one. I would like to use the existing 2 1/4" diameter galvanized posts (see attached drawing) which were placed by a commercial fence company several years ago in what was likely a sufficiently deep hole to prevent frost heaving but only about 8" diameter concrete footer. The inside dimension between the two posts is 49". I made my gate* 48" wide (which may be a problem, I realize now). The gate will weigh approx 150#. My question is the best way to hinge it. I was thinking that pintles would be best given the small gap size available. The left attachment would be a fabricated cylindrical clamp for the hanging post with a simple smaller cylinder welded on to receive the pintle. Is it necessary to use a bearing or cap it and put in a grease zerk? Also, how far apart should the hinges be and how far from the ends? In order to stabilze the gate and reduce the stress on the hanging post, I planned to add a top arch to span the space between the two posts. I welcome your comments and advice. *frame is 1 1/2" square tubing. 'vine' elements are 3/4" round tapered to 1/4". about 40 leaves of 12 gauge will be welded on the vines. gate is 4' x 6'. arch is 2 1/2" x 1/4" flat and letters will be 1" x 1/4" flat bent to shape. thanks.
  4. Hey everyone! Here's a gate that we did a few years ago, but it's one of my favorite projects we've done so I thought I'd share it. The gate is 5 ft tall, by 39 inches wide, I think. We cheated a bit, it's not all hand forged, a lot of it is plasma cut from a 3/8 hot rolled plate. But the leaves are hand forged. We painted it with a tarnished copper green, sprayed a watered down black paint all over it light but enough to make it run down the gate a bit. And the leaves have been gold brushed. Hope ya'll like it! Have a good weekend!
  5. Ken Albert

    gardengate

    © smine

  6. metal dynamics

    the 79'er gate

    here is the new gate, can you guess what number i live at?

    © metal dynamics ltd

  7. metal dynamics

    the 79'er gate

    my new front garden gate design.
  8. Recently I read Jack Andrews book Samuel Yellin Metalworker through Inter Library Loan, and in looking through all the job cards, saw that Yellin’s shop did some gates and grills at Grace Cathedral in San Francisco, the city where I work. I’d thought all of Yellin’s work, at least his public work, was in the East. This was an exciting chance to see a great smith’s work up close and personal. Little did I know. A quick call to Grace Cathedral, just to check the hours they were open and see if anyone knew specifically about the gates and grills, put me in touch with the Cathedral Archivist, who knew what I was talking about and suggested I call when I came by. What an eyeful! The Archivist brought the key to the Grace Chapel Gates, that featured one of Yellin’s signature grotesques, then starting with the Bishop’s Door, thought to be Yellin’s work but not definitely attributable. Clearly wrought iron and nicely done. Then onto a rail done by Harvey Yellin in a side chapel, the slight inconsistancies in the twisting showing it was done by a smith, not a machine. Then I was shown the chancel gates surrounding the main altar, with the heavy, captured bolt that connected the gate to the floor and the opposite gate. The originals by Yellin and, when the altar was moved, extra gates to match that were made in the 60’s, showing much thinner decorative bosses and an overall less complex presentation. Can’t say what was really different, but you could definitely tell the new from the old. The Grace Chapel Gates, 20 feet high, decoration so elaborate I could spend a years trying to figure out how they were done. Huge, incised twists that the Archivist thought were multiple pieces. Another grotesque on the bolt handle. The doorjamb (Gatejamb?) where the gates overlapped was most impressive. When my guide offered to hold the 12 foot ladder so I could get closer to the dusty finials at the top of the gate, I leapt at the opportunity and I’ve got an SD card on my phone full of details. All this was during a longish lunch hour from work. Got back to the office but couldn’t quite focus on the work at hand, I wonder why? . The archivist is there Monday through Wednesday. If you find yourself in San Francisco, on Nob Hill at Taylor and California Street, check out the Mr. Yellin’s work.