velegski

Harbinger. I would suggest that you follow the normalizing and annealing temps and techniques of full time knifemakers rather than survivalist. For instance, one document suggests that the normalizing temps for 5160 are 1600F while the annealing temp is in the 1250F range. Another uses a higher 1550f annealing range. Of course im fat fingered that one. Meant to say I'm not talking about any of the annealing techniques. Everyone has their own favorite cooling technique. Sorry. Missed your real question. Just heat it up again, keeping below your quench temps. Just have a straightening system ready after your quench. It might decide to bend again after quench.

Mr. Powers. Thanks, as I've stated earlier I'm still trying to wrap my head around the heat treat, temper process. Funny that you mentioned Cryo. I know of the process but never attempted it. And cold treatments are the next chapter in a book by Dr. Thomas. Thanks

PNUT. since no one is responding I thought I'd take a shot. Mind, I'm not a metallurgist. I would think that when the blade is removed from the heat source any transformation of austensite to martensite would stop. Nothing in my research suggests that the transformation continues after removal from heat source. If anyone has documentation that it does I'd appreciate being pointed in that direction..

Nice idea. I'll research it. Many Thanks

Thanks for reminding me. It was on my list of things to build and experiment with.. Been sidetracked by caneswords and their locking mechanisms

I guess I did make some assumptions after rereading he did not specifically mention the specific device or technique use to temper. I just tried to say dont jump the gun by assuming the colors. If he's using a flame drawback technique then as mr. Powers pointed out he's got the technique backwards. Of he's using a temperature controlled device then I say its way off. Approximately 100 deg F. using his numbers and the edge colors. BAD Rock. As an aside. I used an electric kitchen stove to do my first knife shaped objects. Yours is way, way, better. I had similar color results and assumed I messed up. Several tests later I found out that colors can be a guide line but sometimes don't tell the whole picture. As I said earlier. Oils, alloys and oxidation contribute to colors when done in enclosed ovens. My first blades tested between 58 and sixty 6sing Rockwell hardness files. Do some tests first.

I knew this was going to happen. As I understand it the maker used an oven to temper this blade. Blades tempered in electric ovens will exhibit such color patterns. Oxidation,oils, and alloys are players. If he did another temper cycle the colors would get even darker. Unless his stove/oven is wildly out if wack its not possible for the knife to get enough to get hot enough to get the 525 deg plus temperature to produce that coloring.

OK. So here's my 2 cents. DONT DO ANOTHER HEAT TREAT CYCLE. Just yet.. What does a file test of the edge tell you. Clean up the edge. grind it and sand it than run a good file over it.. If as suggested it, 1095 steel, a 425 temper could have a Rockwell hardness of above 60. If a file will have a hard time cutting that.

I generally follow Frazers technique. If that fails to achieve the desired look then I may do one or more etch's. I also do a ferric etch followed by a coffee etch as described by Templehound. An ultra strong instant coffee bath followed by a cold water rinse to set etch.

Sir. 1. Colors are a guide. And pictures rarely if ever give a true image of the item since lighting, exposure lenghts and film editing can change the image. My first tempering cycle the metal may come out yellow but by the 3rd cycle its a bluish purple. Oxidation! 2. Determine the items end use. For instance you mentioned a rasp. Which type? Wood rasp or farriers. Each requires different heat treats. 3. Test items.. To temper in an oven I make 3 test items. Each is tempered at a different temperature. Temperature range is determined by the end user of the item. For instance, for a knife with 1084 steel i might try 375 degree F. 400F and 425 F. Each blade is the fashioned, a temporary handle put on then the blade tested to destruction. 4 for old school techniques of file making try ..Antkytherea on you tube. He demonstrates his techniques case hardening tools.

Always hate these discussions since each maker seems to have an opinion. However it seems that when I research several sites that normalizing is often done before annealing during the manufacturing process. It also make sense in that in his process the annealing helps in the stock removal and molecular structure. Since you dont go back above in temps the grain structure doesnt grow. All in all its if make sense from his perspective and analysis. and since it works extremely well for him .. great.

Kelly's a good man to do business with. I would contact him before driving up to his place. Steel I ordered was only available in 42 inch lenght. He is available by email or phone. Vic Legg aka Legski