pintail1

Picked up a Trenton on Wednesday: S/N looks to be 1363 (per AIA it would be 1898)(there is an A to the left of the SN) (both are on the right side foot under the horn) On the right side of the foot under the horn is the letter T. It seems to be marked at 150#. Wire brushed with brass wheel. Overall it is is excellent condition. I'm located in Rehoboth MA in case anyones keeping track of Trentons. Also picked up a nice stake anvil pictured (no markings). Plan to use this weekend.

Motor is a Dayton but I really didn't look at HP. It's ten miles from me so it is easy to return and take a look. Machine is very hardy but I can't find any info. on the web for Wyman. All comments, thoughts and user wisdom appreciated. For me this is a tool that can accomplish what my 1" belt sander can't; and I can justify $299 for my hobby (though my wife will curse me for taking even more room in the garage... or as she calls it the tool shed)

Have the chance to pick up a Ryman Belt Grinder 2" X 40 something (??) (belts are available per sller) and works as it should. Wanted for knife making and other stock reduction projects. It's $299.- and is far less than any other 2" belt sander I've seen. It is set-up horizontal and also has arbor for adding wheel or buffer. (arbor has wire wheel in the photo). Runs at 3600 rpm. (I can modulate) Any advice. (This is a real heavy piece of machinery and very solid OEM table)

Here's mine

Acquired an Atha ball pein hammer that look to be NOS: has paper Atha sticker on handle. New to smithing and have a rounding hammer, a few cross pein hammers, etc. and recently got some tongs (good deal cause I also sold spare Pexto 36" finger brake for a whole lot more than the tongs cost) Like the hammer, but is this a keeper or an ebayer (collectors seem to like this kind of thing): If I make a few bucks I can get something I need more. Thanks for the advice!

I cut the taper on my table saw (nothing fancy) with a tapering jig I made in about 10 minutes: Have photo of q jig (mine not so fancy) and schematic of stand attached. Stand Diagram.tiff

Put together and anvil stand over the past few days (anvil is peter wright) and also forged my first metal: heated metal in my woodstove (Tough to get a good hat but I managed). It felt great. We are starting to thaw (Northeast) and in the next several weeks I hope to get the forge (Centaur) operating.

They look very "elegant"; like they might be French or something.

Haven't fired it up: the weather in the Northeast has been very uncooperative. Not sure on the power, have been spending all my time clearing snow, going to work, and finishing an addition (where the forge will live). So have not looked that carefully. I wrote to Centaur and they provided me a brochure page showing the forge; I have attached. They had no other info. How is it to work with? Centaur Forge.tiff

Picked up a hammer several weeks ago that had initials welded onto the flat part: I spent some time and ground them off today and got back to the original metal. Hammer weighs 5.9#: marking are an M in diamond 186? on the other side (photos attached). Any info appreciated.

Recently acquired a Centaur Forge with blower and foot pedal (see photo) together with a Hay Budden (~250#) , Peter Wright 1.1.24...I've also acquired a few tongs and hammer and am looking forward to my first time moving metal (also planning to take classes at Hannaway Blacksmith Shop in Lincoln, RI). After reading several of articles I think I have a pretty good idea of how to start a burn: how do you determine how much fuel to add to the forge (I think I'll figure hat out) but how do folks stop the burn to conserve fuel. Bought 80# of nut coal at Cranston Coal (Cranston, Rhode Island). Have burned a woodstove for years and now how to manage that so I always have a good bed of coals in the AM: have just never wanted to "stop" a burn. Thanks Centaur Forge.tiff

Congratulation on the new granddaughter: looking at the snow outside you may plan for a July visit. Let me know when your coming: I'm real close to Attleboro

Thanks VaughnT If you succumb to your desires and give in to your addictive tendencies for a hit 'n' miss engine one won't be enough: It's like a monkey on your back. It's a nice monkey so I say go ahead and give in to your desires: whats the worst that could happen, you end up with a nice monkey on your back. I've got more projects than time and more time than money: that said the engines, anvils, tractors, etc. that I'ce collected have all been gotten at very good prices (recent anvil purchases a prime example), I enjoy the dickens out of and use them, and they are appreciating in value a whole lot more thna the .5% the bank is offering, and when I sell things, for cash, I don't owe a dime to the tax man. What can be better than that.

Dave, sounds like a nice collection: I've found with mine I keep one each of 12 and 6 volt battery and swap them between the tractor I plan to use. I plan to start small with blacksmithing as taking on somethin too big too early can be discouraging: baby steps...

Centaur responded; it is one of their forges (discontinued) they enclosed the folloing from an old catalog. I plan to write back to see if they have operating instructions/manual. Very nice of them to follow through with response.