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I Forge Iron

Ralph

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Everything posted by Ralph

  1. Tyler, I understand about heat rising. But unless thte burner was placed close to the edge I do not think that is a problem. But that is my two cents worth based on my forge. The burners are on top but they do have about a 30 degree angle ( I think) Either way I do not have exhaust recirc issues. So far Ralph
  2. Hey! I have been smithing more or less for 12 years and still have MY finger prints. In fact I learned early on how to check for hot metal. Easy way is have the junior person present to go and pick it up. If he yells and drops it, you kow to use tongs or wait a while. :o
  3. Ralph

    J Wolfe

    Glad to hear some better news. Yall are in our prayers. Ralph
  4. How does a burner huff its own exhaust if you are using a cylinder? Side or top it will be the same distance from the edge of the forge. The few forges I have built all had the orignial issue and tuning the flare fixed it. Ralph
  5. Ralph

    J Wolfe

    Going to have to call jwolfe and tell him hostpital visits are not something to try and rack up. I know as I have spent almost 18 days out of the last 90 days in teh hospital. But I will redouble the prayer efforts for him and Jeanette. Ralph
  6. WOOHOO!!! Nice to hear nice news once in a while. Congrats to Mom and Dad and have fun with the youngster! Ralph
  7. I got around the hole alignment issue by scribing a straight line down the pipe before drilling. Helps a load when lining up down the tube. :)
  8. WOO HOO Pam!!!! Glad to hear of this. I just hope my arm/shoulder gets better so I can smith again. I hope that you have a great time. BTW does the place provide coal etc? or is it all you? Ralph
  9. I still think it is the nozzle. Made a world of difference :?: Questione in my forge. And I have talked with Ron in person. It is his contention that it is more important than most think. Takes only a few mins and costs nothing. Ralph
  10. Do you have a nozzle tip on the burner? ( a flared one?) If so you might need to 'tune' it. Take burner out and light it. see how flame is. turn off and slip nozzle up or down till it huffs. The go other direction till it burns poorly. slide it back till it burns smooth. At least that is what I remeber. I got that info from Ron Reils web site. But I am not sure if he still has that info posted. Good luck
  11. A good stiff modeling clay also feels like hot iron. And it seems to defore in much the sam manner so you can guess the amount of matrial
  12. I know nothing, but I would tend to agree with Tyler. Most likely some sort of leather punch. But the curious thing is that the die looks to be interchangable. It has a retaining spring over the top. But does not look too strong to me.
  13. Went to HS in Grand FOrks ND. and have seen some of these crosses at various cemetaries. Pictures do not really do justice. Unfortunately I was not that interested in metal work back then. :(
  14. Ralph

    Travelling

    Thanks! I am looking forward to see how Furr's has fare over the years. Dawn and I both worked at Furr's 25 years or so back. Ralph
  15. Personally I would not use lead. too many potential hazards. But modeling clay is a good alternative.
  16. Well we are leaving for Houston on Monday. Hope we get some usable info from MD ANderson. In any case will be nice to get some good food again other than what we make ourselves. Yall be good while I am gone. As it is I hope we can get net access via Dawn's laptop.
  17. Bryan, Congrats to you and your son!!!!! So do you know what area he is going onto? IE what is his job training going to be? BTW tell him that this old sub sailor salutes his service to our country! Ralph ( former Reactor operator on SSN648 ASPRO)
  18. Marc, Sorry to hear about your friends passing.I understand your loss. Just recently lost a good friend and smith. But as long as you pass on the know-how he passed on to you he will in that manner continue to influence and help others.
  19. Joelon, Strine is correct if you work at it you WILL get better. ALl of the time. If time is such a issue, I strongly suggest that you locate a smithing group near to you and go and participate in at least one hammer-in as your hammer techniques are extremely difficult to assess on -line. But watching others and having them watch you is the fastest method to learning the 'proper' way to hammer etc.
  20. Let me know when, and I will watch and take notes....... Speaking of knives. It is of my humble opinion that you should use new steel for knives as there is so much blasted work in them. SO why risk it with unknown metal? ALso a piece of 1084 steel from a 'drop' bin is cheap
  21. Well as it was stated, we are smiths. Where do you think tap and dies came from? Does require some filing and chisel work to do it though. In fact as you make them take pics and notes and then use them as a blueprint here on this site. :)
  22. Well...... if you really want to know call the Fire Marshall's office and ask what the rules are. BUT , I repeat But once you call they will know. ANd if someone does complain then you may be stuck. Often I go by the motto " It is easier to get forgivness than Permission."
  23. between anvil and mount. Use ther stuff in a tube like for a caulk gun
  24. Silicon works. SO does an old asphalt shingle
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