KRS

If its for a press then the valve is most likely mounted in a fixed position and activated by adjustable end stop.

So you can bend lot of parts the same way in no time

I should have taken a picture of the pile where I got this from:

~6.5"X11.5"

165x295 mm

​Another two handled sledge in the second picture, in front of the anvil.

And you know its serious when you add a bar to your tong-rings to rotate the stock

On topic of welding the flywheel to the tire, I think a rear mounted drive wheel has enough advantages to consider it.

It makes it easy to change the tire, you don´t have to weld anything to the tire. The part where the motor wheel and the tire connects is further away from the user.

It allows a versatile build and is not more complex then a front wheel drive. And obviously for drifting you need a rear wheel drive

Edit: Lee, in the animated image the motor is wrong mounted, it should climb the wheel for a better control.

It´s no rocket science and I am not trying to discourage you making your own plans,

but if you really don´t want to purchase plans you have to have a few fix points to build around.

In no particular order:

-Ram weight and geometry, slim Ram is taller, if you use round stock how do you prevent it from rotating

-Cam, crank distance to centre, variable?

-Stroke, distance between the dies- idle/max rpm, variable?

-RPM, diameter of the motor wheel, and the tire- if you go too fast with a dupont linkage it will do....     nothing.

-Spring, this depends on position, RPM at the crankshaft, length of the crank, weight of the Ram

-how much Spring tension in idle/ Top/Bottom dead centre, how to adjust the tension.

-changeable dies? do you want to use tools with the hammer?

-optional: safety?

I think you need to make final decisions for at least 3 points from the list before you go on

This is what I have done:

If I don´t use it for bending it doubles as a coffee table.

Patience is something you will need, it took me a few nights drawing and calculating as I have build mine without bought plans.

I think I did the bare minimum of planning and drawing with very little changes in the shop.

Hardwood bearings will work if done correct and can always be change to PTFE or better, UHMWPE

^What he said.

If your welder friends never repaired anvils and they tell you its easy to "fix", don´t trust them

You could check if its possible to reduce the rpm by half with the dahlander wiring.

I think it would require a new switch and some wire shielding. 

anyone knows if that is doable?

I´mma take a chair and enjoy the show.

Remember that every little gusset helps

For many years handwash paste contained wood to help scrub off the dirt,
then some added tiny plastic particle or changed to only plastic as abrasive.
Thats when I decided to make my own from sawdust and liquid soap.

arftist, if people wouldn't appreciate your experience they would not ask you to share it.
I for my self have only experience with aluminum when it comes to hand held circular saws.
I knew there are metal only hand held circular saws with lower rpm, but the bosch blade for higher rmp was new to me.
And I like to read about stuff thats new to me :) no experience challenge here, only asking you to share yours- and for that I am thankful

Mixing scale in the oil sand makes it even heavier, it fills up all the gaps between grains.

The Bosch blade is rated for 5800RPM.   My saws rated speed is rated at 4900RPM.   

 

I think you are correct that the larger blades are rated for a lower RPM to hold cut rates, that is surface feet/minute, within an acceptable range for the cutting surfaces .  However my blade and saw are a much smaller diameter than most of the cold cut metal saws, so the RPM can be increased to compensate for the smaller diameter blade to maximize the radial speed.

The hand held circular saws for metal I know run at 2200 RPM and can cut ~3" thick material, 9 inch diameter blade.

Con: not as hard as an anvil

Pro: lower thermal conductivity coefficient, the heat will stay longer in your workpiece

I would guess the height is 13" at the moment without the base plate, see the 3 welding wire rolls in the background for scale.

Maybe you find another piece for a upsetting block since you already have a step between the two blocks.

It would add some weight too 

guess I would make a long handle for a small PUK saw.

Might take a while but cheaper then a flat long neck angle grinder 

I learned it early and take it as given, but some people who see me doing it have never seen it before:

For a clean cut with a hacksaw, measure where to cut and grind a small notch with a file. The saw will bite immediately and not slide to the sides.  

When I overheat the iron I let it in the fire, but in cooler areas.

My experience is that it cools off on top of the fire, but the iron does not burn because of the lack of oxygen-

yay or nay? 

I think it depends on where you grind, horizontal on the top the belt should pull away.

vertical on a front plate or on the wheel it should come towards you.

If you can stand in front or at the back of the same machine you dont need to change directions.

I´m not sure if I read the question right because I cant think of any other ways, at least with a belt grinder.

178 - (everyone that is not from england) - (every hobby smith) = ?

I would keep calling shops, that way you can plan your route better and it shows more interest.

I wish you the best of luck for your tour, take some pictures and post a travel log :) 

Original

Trenton

*Year

*size

I think its a really cool project but I would not make it any harder then necessary (not talking about Rockwell hardness :) )

The pre-sprung face will not last even if there where no death spots.

every time you hit it you remove tension, every time you place a hot iron on it the top side will expand.

Could you share how you did the mark and provide a close up? I guess its CNC made?

Regarding the stand- I see you plan to have the horn on the one-leg side, as many others have done it already.

I think about switching to one like you have planed but I cant decide if the extra space under the round horn is worth loosing horizontal stability.

On the square horn I have mostly vertical force, but on the round horn I work often in all directions  

I´m with dwarf, and I would place some temporary spacers around the edge, else the top plate could warp and in the worst case close the gap

You don´t have to find a matching anvil if you have the pattern   ;)

(product piracy is bad, hmmmkay)