KRS

Wouldn´t a Tong work better? like on of those the blacksmiths have

That way your hand would not be over the fire

Sure you dont confuse it with EN 1090 which is the european norm for rebar, but not related to HC 1090 steel?

Same here, the rates I sell are higher than what I pay for the power I use

Alan, have you seen this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0ICdvaU94o

Most combo vises are not made for smithing, they are used for straightening sheet metal after cold cutting in the vise, setting a rivet and other small works (with small hammers)

They are no substitue for a anvil, chunk of steel, railroad track, sledge hammer anvil. All those options will be better.

"Stop hitting yourself"

This Post was created with the famous 9 Finger "thathurts" System

Carl Schlasse and Sichelschmidt & Schlasse where registered in the same area, my guess is that that´s the same Schlasse

S&S made London pattern anvils too

Instead of ash you can use scale to increase the density of sand.

Nice anvil, congrats

If you have problems finding your mark but you know it should be there this helps:

I make 2 marks, one where I need it and the second is to assist me finding the first fast. They are the depth of my anvil face apart.

The distance has to be long enough so the second mark is not glowing bright.

Placing the Iron on the anvil, lining up the second mark on the edge I know exactly where I have to look for the real mark.

For more distance between the marks because of a long heat use a hammer, compass or a whatever you have available

I don´t think "medium sized forge" is a proper unit of area. Measure the surface you need to treat and maybe then someone can help you

16 minutes in in this video you see the tools in close up, recommend the whole video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUXoNUzAyvk

John, I think that might be because the Ever Ready will only work if you have a block sized to the anvil

Chris.

Its a bear, no doubt- but you could add ears and a short tail, maybe?

Good job on making him look friendly

for a sweet spot you could weld two pieces of the head upright between head and flange.

The bottom of the head without flange makes a nice chamfer for welding full penetration.

(at least on my rails, UIC 60)

Lots of cutting and welding but should work like a small farriers anvil

Buying a "Wisdom (R)" anvil actually makes you smarter: You get the wisdom to never buy something like that again.

Not mine, but it fits in this topic and I like the idea:

Search for videos with Jesse Sipola, his work is impressive.

When I get asked how I moved the 600 pound powerhammer base I say "the egyptian style"

Funniest part was getting it on the drill press:

My assembly/welding table is made of 2 heavy beams on stands, Hofi has as far as I know a similar setup.

I removed one stand to have a ramp and pulled it with a hoist on the beams fairly close to the other stand.

Lifting the other side up on the second stand was easy with a 15 feet lever

Its a big OK drill press, but the table was too small anyway and most likely too weak so I kept it on the beams to drill.

Was neither that slow nor that dangerous as it might sound, don´t get distracted and think twice about what could happen.

If overheating is the only problem I would stick with what you have. You probably will run into the same problem with the other drill press.

Maybe add a fan to yours?

Edit: Frosty has a point, got a similar that saved me from hand drilling- but since you limit yourself to one drill press only I would keep what you have 

Congrats, nice find. I am still thinking of all the tool combinations I would use with double hardies

But I would always try to remove as much paint as possible with a scraper first instead of the wire wheel on old items.

I don´t like old rust protection possible with lead airborne.

If the paint is thick its sometimes even faster

​Sounds like the Injanga knows what´s up, dye penetrant testing could reveal hidden cracks

For solid stock it is explained, when it comes to tubes there are some differences:

A hot rolled square tube has stronger corners and generally more even distributed stress from the production.

Cold rolled tubes have weaker corners, just as you would imagine if you have ever worked hot metal

There are regulations that you would have to normalize cold rolled tubes before you weld at the corners (in Germany)

Nah, I am fine. Power Hammer build is done, I have everything I need.

Stage: Denial.

There is (almost) no such thing as "too much power" for the motor, yours looks a little bit weak- and the shaft and bearings on bigger motors are stronger. Downside is a VFD for big motors are expensive.

I guess the tire is from your old car and was free, but if you can find one with a flatter running surface you have a better transmission and less wear. I have 3" and it works great, tire was ~10$

If it works the way you planed it you have to cover the motor and tire to protect it from oil and scale.

I watched the video but still have doubts regarding efficiency and controllability- I would love it if you prove me wrong and am looking forward for your video

​

mg is your hammer, F is the resulting force of the spring that holds the hammer up.

This is in no way comparable to a vehicle suspension.

A regular DuPont idle force diagram would like the image above- flip it and you have a situation like you would get if you flip the hammer.

​The physics of a flipped animated image is not real world physics

Many people complain about tire hammers being wobbly at the top - and I guess this would hold true of any power hammer with a giant crank 6 feet up in the air

With a counterweight and the right balance its not wobbly.

This reversed linkage would at best be inefficient,

the toggle link should be level in idle, since this is not possible unless your the spring has a force of  F=∞ the ram will pull the linkage down.

The ram is supposed to go down, so thats not a big problem

If you reverse it you need the same force as a regular linkage only to be in neutral position- and then even more to make it hit.

Pulling it down makes a soft hit, instead of the snap you would normally experience- so much energy lost.

I don´t think it would work. Lots of the homemade power hammers are crap, that´s why they wobble.

If you haven´t heard about gutenberg.org, it hosts a large variety of free books that can be read in the browser and by most e-book readers.

Oxy-Acetylene Welding and Cutting

This book goes far beyond what the tiles suggests, welding, cutting, soldering, hand forging, heat treatment and more.

Practical Mechanics for Boys

for Boys... well, its from 1914 so don´t get too upset.

In language which every boy can understand and so arranged that he may readily carry out any work from the instructions given.

Metal Shop 

If you find more interesting books there, please expand the List.