KRS

SLAG, you are right, the smith in wpersons video is German, it is Alfred Habermann.

Always readjust the disc catch guard and the tool rest as the wheel wears down

Yes

http://www.beautifuliron.com/gs_stc-88_air_hammer.htm

there is a section for oil specifications

1 hour ago, JHCC said:

It should be noted that while social mores have changed considerably over time, there are still some vices that almost everyone finds upsetting.

No vice shaming, every vice is beautiful 

Try the vise section,

I will relocate it for him, its not like I have a life outside of being servant here for people, 

Before the thread goes completely off track,

what is under the anvil? Is the steel post continued?

looks like it is sitting only on half of the table

Table build from grating like this:

Have you looked at the certiflat welding tables?

18 hours ago, bobasaurus said:

The texture does take a bit more washing than a smooth knife.  Keeps things from sticking to it, though.  

I know what you mean, like those knifes with grooves or the skeletonized cheese knifes

I think the flatter is from peddinghaus

Here is another example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GVB0qkRF1c

Something for the Zombie Problem

On 4.5.2016 at 3:51 AM, navasky said:

I haven't got a chance to use it yet

I am glad the outbreak has not reached you yet and that you are well prepared.

We are having a pretty hard time here and hope foijewoaijljkljkllkjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj

I use it for stamps and touchmarks with good sucess, just give it a even, thin coat

And I agree with gote, but the holes can be too close to the body.

round and square hole on my anvil sit exactly centred above the end of the feet, I would prefer clearance under the holes.

Not long ago I have seen a anvil the same pattern as mine with a notch cut into the feet 

From what I read -you know where- it is a flux sheet pressed onto a wire mesh for forge welding steel to iron.

The product is used up in the Process.

I only know of arc gouging for stick welder.

Doing it with a mig I would be careful to not overheat your hose/ cable assembly unless its water cooled.

For cutting you need more power then for spot-heating, I do not know the ya205a but I guess its 205A max so it should work, depending on the duty cycle.

If you don´t absolutely have to, look for other options for cutting.

7 hours ago, swedefiddle said:

Hmmm....uranium sounds special. Where can it be found?

Where ever they are making Nuclear Explosives, Can't be hard to find. Israel, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan..........

Enjoy the glow!! Won't make you Fret at All. Hummmmmmmm

Neil

Isn't the most (not natural) found uranium in Afghanistan from Russian and American DU Ammunition?

Most of it is likely pulverized, but of the thousands tons used you might find enough to build a few frets 

I really don´t think you have to quench unless it is specifically asked for.

If I had any saying I would ask you to grind down what you have done, tag some square bar to both long sides, start your welds there and cut them off later.

you could even bevel the sides a bit before you tag the sacrificial bar to it since the corners are what takes the most stress.

I would travel the short distance, place one bead half on the other not at random spots. Lay some square lines with soap stone to keep the welds square to the anvil.

Keep it clean, preheat and go hotter

12 hours ago, medieval said:

Spray on cold galv....available at Home Depot. 96% as effective as hot dip galvanizing 

In terms of anode protection yes, zinc is zinc.

But hot dipped ads more zinc and has a better bond.

If there are chemicals involved the zinc paint could fall behind even more

At the end of the day put a hammer and a tong cross-over on the anvil.

It keeps the devil away because he is scared to get pinched by the tongs.

It works like a coffee machine,

water cant get over 100°C, then it becomes steam and pushes more water trough the rising tube to the top of the tank.

from the bottom of the tank comes fresh cold water.

this should help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeC9bNxQ2Zs

7 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

Any store online and cable in particular you recommend? Also, I know that you also need to buy those metal things that have the loop to go on the end of the wire. I forgot the name of them. Thanks

I checked briefly but the companies I can recommend are not international, sorry. 

On the last hitachi grinder I replace the cable when it was still undamaged because It annoyed me.

Way too short and in general a cheap bad cable.

Go to good tool store or order some quality cable online, its worth it imho