KRS

Beside the oil and everything, ventilate.

In a heated shop the air humidity will be higher inside than outside. Warm air holds more water than cold air, Water will set where its the coldest

Before leaving your shop in the evening ventilate it, let some dry cold air in and the warm damp air out.

If you don´t the moisture will condensate over night

Ask him to show you a youtube video from 1875

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa_hiLXLbTc

Thanks for the kind words

You all know the guy at the flea market with a box of files, all thrown in?

I cry every time...

Alan, I think you misjudged the size, most are 100mm files, ~140mm total length.

I put them in a drawer when I am done, for the regular files a rake system like yours is best practice, no doubt

Keep them sharp

Chris

23 hours ago, Steve Sells said:

I dont understand what he wants, it appears he wants to make knives with out bothering to learn how to make knifes,  but that would be silly, wouldnt it  ?  its not like we dont have an entire section devoted to knife making lessons....

22 hours ago, odblacksmith said:

I think i got it...no forging...no stock removal... i'm not to much of a blade guy I have made a few small axes, some rail spike knives etc; so an expert i am not.This sounds like maybe a job for a 3d printer?But then again i don't know enough about 3d printing to know if it would spit out a knife shaped object or a decent blade.Other than that maybe powdered metal "Sintering" I think its called. I'm genuinely at a loss,i have not been able to make a blade without heat,hammer and abrasives.

20 hours ago, Rashelle said:

"How WOULD i make a blade without forging or stock removal?"

Flint knapping, but then that'd be stock removal of a non metal knife. Cast a bronze one.  Then work harden the edge.

I'd been not paying attention to this either till odblacksmith quoted that.

2 hours ago, metalmangeler said:

So is the OP for real? "How do I make blades unrelated to forging and grinding?" On a forging site.  "Anyone care to name a particular book or website." Maybe IFI would be a starting place. I try not to be a difficult person on the web. BUT.............

Could it be that you read it wrong?

I think his question was how to make a good handle, where to get the steel.

Not producing a blade without forging or removal. but the many other aspects:

What makes a good grip, how to select the material, what kind of wood, how to make a sheath and so on? 

Edit: Not that information hard to find, at least to a point where one could draft a more specific question.

Human sized Hamster wheel that powers a single naked light bulb

If you are looking for software solution to organize digital files I am sorry, this is not the topic you are looking for

I never had a satisfying solution to store my key files in way that

-they don´t touch each other

-they are visible so I don´t have to search very long

-is cheap and fast to make

-is extensible

Behold, the Multichamber File Management System, MC-FMS:

Over 40 files in those 2 displays.

I used left-overs from some Multichamber roofing sheets, cut them to length and taped one side shut.
Done.

You should try it manually. if you would damage it with a cheater bar you will most likely damage it with hydraulics.

The only difference is that you apply external force so you need to bolt it to the ground and make sure the stand is not too weak.

And you have to do it steady for a nice bend, have it lubricated

my 0.02$

Your welding will improve a lot with proper preparation.

Stick welding is forgiving but cleaning the surfaces always helps.

Magnets will only help so much, it is better if you clamp it together before you weld:

use your dies as spacers together with some sheet metal or paper, paper will burn and makes the removal easier

23 hours ago, John McPherson said:

I certainly have not seen anything like this in catalogs from the past 20 years. The pinnacle of commercial casting and blacksmithing around the world appears to have been from 1880 up to about 1930, when this page was printed.

There is a heavy duty single wall Czech style still being made.

Looks like a beast, but I am fine since I have the "small" rectangular from the catalog I posted.

I found it the day before Christmas last year really cheap so I could not pass.

The double-walled firepot design was the first I have seen In one of my oldest books for metal-working before I even started, but since then I rarely have seen those

I have looked here and there but I cant find much on that kind of pot.

Is the design dead?

I know you can still get parts, but all new forges I found are single-walled.

The difference with double-walled is that the firepot has cooling fins that are cooled from the air blown in the forge:

Baby vises, eh? I can play that game, too.

40mm angle iron in the small vice.

Double horn anvil on the baby vise

5 hours ago, slowplayrj said:

It's known as a "Church Window" anvil. These have been used since medieval times(8th century), up until the middle 19th century. Commonly used by armorers and sword makers. With the Hardy hole at the heel, probably late 17 to early 1800's. 196 lbs...price is about right to serious  'smith collector. 

 1907 Söding & Halbach. At least that is what I see on the chest

Tis nothing but a scratch! It'll buff out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEls4aoJYII

Ask your parents before you play with fire.

I don´t claim to work traditional per se, but if I would, I would explain it like that:

I work in the tradition of blacksmiths where I use the best tool available for a job. The result may even be historical accurate, but the route I took to get there can be different.

The only constant tradition in blacksmithing is progress.

18 hours ago, Dave Budd said:

the motor is on a pivoting arm that moves upwards to contact the tyre, as that happens a pad (the brake) that is directly beneath the tyre comes away. The reason the tyre appears to stop at the top each time is actually just down to good judgement on the operator's part

I once thought about a break that only holds it in top position:

A second disc that is smooth on the surface, expect there where you want the break to stop the hammer.

Never tried it, and it could somethimes give you one more strike until it stops, i think?

9 hours ago, Everything Mac said:

Thanks - He's a work in progress - still needs arms and his tongue. 

What makes you think Sichelschmidt und Schlasse? I can't find any markings on it other than those shown above. 

 

Cheers 

Andy

I have seen a S&S with the same shape, the bick slightly lower than the face and the corners of the transit to the bick look much like it.

Not 100% sure tough, because the markings should look like this:

S (logo in a circle) S

year

weight

Some other manufactures would have an additional stamp on the upsetting block.

I guess its Sichelschmidt und Schlasse, is there a stamp on the upsetting block?

Nice minion oven

I guess its Sichelschmidt und Schlasse, is there a stamp on the upsetting block?

Nice minion oven

Take a good camera with you when you pick it up, just in case you have to document any damage from transport or inspection.

Don´t know how well X-raying works with something massive like a power hammer.

No Sticker, missing the wax-paper on top. Best I can do is 1$ /lb

It was in this thread, you only have to go back one page where we talked about it.

I think you are right, very well observed.

Would I have said the same thing about a Blower with a external motor? Probably not. But I still think with a boxed fan like the one pictured it was valid.

I think I  made a generalizing statement that is not applicable to that fan, I was thinking like frosty wrote that airflow is required for cooling. But you made your point clear, now I have to test it on my own fan...

I do not reduce the input area but open a secondary output that blows in the room to reduce airflow. I think that this is better for the motor.

Chris

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