KRS

Place it further away or shield of the radiation heat.  

The element heats on full power until the ambiance sensor turns off. 

Congratulations

Question B can only you answer, or maybe in hopefully distant future you heirs.

Not grinding the anvil is one thing, but I think its safe to say that you can remove those 2 welding spots 

What I wrote earlier was not meant to be tested in the pressure chamber, should have pointed that out,

thanks Frosty for making it clear.

However, I found the link to the penetrating oil tests:

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I would not replace screws with SS screws unless you know that they fit the specifications.

Common SS screws are worse than 8.8

The environment they are in is very harsh!  Depending on the well they could be exposed to saltwater, dry gas, H2S, petro distillate, crude oil, paraffin, calcium build up, salt build up and 250-400 deg F to boot.

Can you use under those conditions stuff like "liquid film"?

A few days ago I have seen a comparison of penetration oils here.

The result was that 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission oil works best

Cant find the chart right now 

I will  never forget the guy at reddit that needs gloves to protect him from heat and a possible electric shock from his toaster where he tempers his knives 

 

How is it an easy way to electrocute myself? The knife never touches the live wires on the inside, or even any metal on the toaster at all.

EDIT: Along with that, since I'm using heated metal I also wear my gloves with melting or heat treating. If people don't know how to use gloves when around heat they shouldn't be a blacksmith.

:blink:

I am interested in how you maintain or even improve your power tools
What I already do, in somehow regular intervals, is:

General:
Dust of motors and fans with pressured air.
Check the cables, replace damaged
On not hardwired stationary machines I pull the plug and search for corrosion, bad contacts on the plug and the socket
If you see large sparks in power drills you might need new carbon brushes

Oil and grease, this is obvious, refill if necessary, check for leaks if the consumption rises
If a oil release screw has a magnet check for metal shavings.
On cold days let hydraulics run for a few minutes before you put load on it

Angle grinder:
I have seen shattered gearboxes because they lost all grease over time and jammed.
You can see that it loses grease if the head is constantly collecting dust because it got sticky from the grease.
ask the manufacture what grease you need or use NLGI 00-1

Pressured Air:
Release the condense water from the tank
empty water separators and refill oilers
make sure there are no leaks

Welders:
Clean the wire feed wheels and check the grooves
I had a cheap portable magnetic stick welder that shut of because it got too hot on bigger welds,
After installing a 230V (EU) fan it had a duty cycle of 100%
I connected it to the power switch- warranty void, do it on your own risk

Electric:
Test kill switches and residual-current circuit breaker for function

Anything that does not get used much may fail when you need it the most. Check these items at regular intervals to be sure they are in good working order.

You will never regret getting a 275# ridgid peddinghaus.

If you have the means and the determination, by all means- go for it.

2 years without finding a anvil sounds tough, where are you from? 

If you are texturing with a 12 gauge

I have seen a video of a guy who made a rotating bolster plate that fit in his pritchel hole and then allowed drifting through the hardie.  I plan to do the same thing when I can find something at the scrap yard that will work.  

I have searched and found a blueprint of the rotating bolster plate here:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0149-spinning-bolster-plate-r381

Now I am really mad that my hardy hole and the pritchel hole are so far apart on my anvil :(

About the impact wrench:

I dont know if this ever happened with an anvil, but go easy on the bolts, tighten the bolts in a X pattern, bit by bit.

If you tighten only one really good and then go to the next you could break a feet.

This can happen with cast machine stands on uneven concrete

better safe then sorry 

I prefer to think that you are really small,  In the unlikely event that you are not, build something unbelievable like a 12 feet screwdriver out of flattened pipe with a log wooden handle for your BIG museum

This is not about the yellow-blue tempering colors, but it might be useful anyway:

bad link removed

scotchbrite 

I work with Stainless steel too, thats why I have always at least one roll of this fabric to polish SS- way cheaper then the small cut pices

Works great in the blacksmith shop to polish hammers and check for dents 

These arent the best. My business partner is the wiz with the thing, but heres a quick weld of 3 pieces. 2 @ 1/4 1 @ 3/16. Like I said, I need practice with it. I normally get frustrated and grab the mig. :) his welds are definitely a lot nicer.

J

20140724_180508.jpg20140724_180550.jpg

I have a few questions if you dont mind:

Its basically atomic hydrogen welding, right? if so the technique was invented 1924 but it never established  

In a few videos I have seen the flame flickering, how noticeable is it while welding/cutting?

Have you experienced Hydrogen embrittlement when working with tool steel?

Have you ever tried to use a mechanical feed for cutting like its done with acetone oxygen cutters? 

I could not resist, for those of you who haven't seen it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmtMv7Cz0HA

 (my neighbor, Tahera,actually reports of dishes falling off shelves,in her kitchen, from where my primary hammer is mounted now)

I may have missed it in the thread, but if this is the case its probably the floor of your shop that is the problem.

If you pour concrete on bedrock it will transmit the shockwaves, you need to uncouple the concrete floor.

If airborne sound is the problem and you have firewood, place it strategically around your walls.

Both hammers pictured in front are about the same weight,  the right one is 4kg which equals to 8.8 pound.

I am certain its from the U.S army, given the age and the location where I found it

(The one in the back was mounted in a stamp, one of my makeshift anvils before I got my real anvil.)

I like those:

They are strong and the thread will last forever compared to the fine thread others have

I have not found folks on e-bay to be truthful or accurate in their descriptions in a great part--for example the "blacksmith tool" which was a cobblers bunion stretcher...

Got to love e-bay :)

Warren-Teed Goods and Services:
HAND TOOLS, PARTICULARLY HEAVY HAND TOOLS-NAMELY, SLEDGES, HAMMERS, MAULS, PICKS, MATTOCKS, HOES, BARS, WEDGES, BLACKSMITH TOOLS, TONGS, RAILROAD TRACK TOOLS, ADZES, PUNCHES, WRENCHES, AND PARTS THEREOF

(sorry for caps, its copy paste)

Yes thomas that is very true about ebay but I was just trying to find info on the hammer and that's only place I found anything even close to his pics . I have hammers that are similar but are not ten pounders

I need to check the weight again and take a better picture next week.

Chris

It weights 10 pound I guess.

The peen has a 10mm diameter, I might sand it down, but not before I have to.

I will put it to a good use, thats for sure

Did you google any warren teed hammers

lot of "vintage" warren teed hammers at ebay, some information about the company:

Registration Date
1953-12-08

EXPIRED

1994-09-12

Heavy hand tools, railroad construction tools.

But no information about oversea trades or how it got in the barn where it hasn't been touched since I guess at least 30 years.

Is the 85-8 a specific steel? Im not used to U.S steel standards

I live in germany where most sledgehammers look like the rear one, with or without peen.
The one in the front with the octagonal face is a barn-finding
The stamp reads "warren-teed 85-8"
Bavaria was under U.S. control after WWII so my best bet would be its a leftover from the army, have they ever been military issue?

KRS are you familiar with the term "Anvil Envy"???

I suffered from it for quite a while and still do on a few occasions, but it got better

got a smashing treatment  :D

Hi there, my first post- 

Because sites like this gave me a decision guidance  I thought I should share what I got.

I have a image album done already, thats why I don't re-upload it here.

My 1899 S&H:

http://imgur.com/a/Q9WOm#0

I know grinding is no-go, but the rust penetration was too deep to ignore it. It was no easy decision and I kept it to a minimum.

Wire wheel/brush and WD-40, angle grinder and belt sander on the working surfaces.