GottMitUns

Guys and Gals,

   When I started a few years ago I bought a book on blacksmithing that was vary helpful and had a color page in the back of the book that showed the color/temper correlation on a piece of steel and gave some general guidelines on what to temper back to for a tools intended use.  I gave the book away and now need a copy of it.

From the poor description I gave can anybody tell me the title and author?

June 22nd I think.  I heard about it this morning.

Russell

I did a little measuring of the threads of the Tweeco mig tip that I have and while 1/4-28TPI works,Has worked,And will continue to work, I think the actual thread is a metric M6x1.  I have one of these taps around the shop somewhere and will post results when I try it, I think it may hold the tip more centered.

By my measurments the threads are.010 undersize for 1/4-28 UNF

Russell

Jacob,

   Here is some info that Frosty gave me last week that filled in a few blanks for me.  if you are using 3/4" pipe then D=.75 The end of you mig tip should be 1/2D (.375) away from the entrance of your mixing tube, and your mixing tube should be 6-7 x D (4-1/2-5-1/4")long.

I think this is a good starting point and I hope Frosty chimes in.

Russell

if you can find some 1-1/2" weld on pipe caps, split them and give them a try  like John McPherson did above. because of their uniform thickness and dome shape the flatten out to a different shape that a flat disk. Might work,,might not

Russell

Frosty,

    I'm using a .035 tip in the 3/4 and a .045 in the 1" burner.

Thanks for giving me the set back std.  Ill start playing with that Monday.

Russell

Very Nice!

Darn it Frost, I wish you had posted this 3 days ago!  I just built a 3/4" and a 1" T burner off your old design. I had a 1/4" sch80 nipple in my hand thinking it would work but put it down and tried to stay ad close to you original as I could.  I didn't have lamp rod but I did have a bunch of 1/4" SS tubing and fittings back to 1/4" NPT.  I tapped the back side of the Tees with 1/4NPT and one of the 1/4 NPTx 1/4 Tubing fitting with 1/4-28NF.  Screwed the mig tip into the NPT side of the fitting and screwed that into the tee and then made up another fitting on the other end of the 1/4" tubing to get back to 1/4"NPT .  Boy aint that a paragraph, I think it needs a picture!

Is it trial and error on how long the tig tip should be or do you have a sweet spot in relation to the Tee?

Thanks

Russell

Thanks Guys,  I will give it a try.

Russell

After 2 years of use I decided to rebuild and mod my gas forge. I have a small tub of ITC-100 leftover from my first build but it is completely dried out.  I think I remember reading a post somewhere that stated if ITC 100 dried out it could not be rejuvenated.  does anybody know if that is true?

Just for grins this is what is left of my flares after 2 years. they were made of 17-4 SS and the OD was straight with a internal 12 on 1 tapper.

Thanks

Russell

My gas forge is made from a chunk of 8"x8" square tubing lined with a 2" koilwool blanket and it held its rectangular shape for the most part.

Russell

The Goliad Forge meets in Ander Tx this weekend and next weekend if your interested,  About 1-1/2 hrs from San Antonio

Russell

neat idea.

Good Job!!!

prayer said

That came out just fine Ethan!!  I'm going to try your trick with the trailer hitch ball next week!

I saw that too. 

Nice photography and very nice work. 

The comments weren't even to off the wall when I looked, a lot of positives and "I want that!" except for the induction coil heating a knife blade. that one went downhill quick.

Russell

I actually made something useful for once.  One of my machinist wanted a handle for a little extra leverage to turn a tailstock.  30 minutes later this came out of it.

 IMG_1512.MOV

He is drilling 316SS with a 1-3/4" spade drill.

thanks

Russell

If its like the group I attend, a few extra pairs of safety glasses and gloves that you could accidentally forget to pickup and take home with you after the meeting is a nice start.

Russell

I really really thought about trying to draw the horn out on the hammer but,,,

i might try welding some handles on to the next one and give it a go. 

Russell

Here is a bic iron and RR anvil I made today.  The blacksmith group I work with wants 3-4 RR anvils for beginners and I had some time today.

I sank a piece of 1" sq tubing into the face to make a 3/4" hardie hole.

The rail was new and had no work hardening on the face so I didn't lose anything by milling part of it flat.

Russell

If 2661 is the whole serial # AIA puts it made around 1901. Second year of production.

Russell

looks a like your about ready to have some fun!!  I second what Glen Said about laying down the hot cut.  As soon as I saw it I could just feel my knuckles getting caught between it and a hammer handle being swung at full speed  

I picked up 100 pound PW for around 300.00 in South Texas in OK shape, but that was after having feelers out for a couple of years among folks that have a natural ability for finding anvils.   5.00 a pound is more than I would go but that just me.

just for comparison a NC Tool 112# Cavalry anvil is 440.00 (3.92 per pound) and a peddinghaus 275# is $1795.00 (6.52 per pound)

If your in South Texas PM me and you can come by the shop and play with all three and maybe make a more informed decision. 

There is also a meeting of the Goliad Forge in Ander Tx this Saturday were you could play with a few others and LOOK at a Big Nimba, I don't think Mr B is ready to let anyone use his new baby yet!!  

B

   Can I make a suggestion?

Please list the steps that you know about and the order of operation, and also the tools needed for each step. 

   Hopefully someone with more experience than you or I will see the missing steps and fill you in. 

Russell