teenylittlemetalguy

My Uncle was a CCC worker , it was a great program and fed many families in a desperate time. He was able to eke by and send his family enough to get by as well. One project he helped with was the lodge on Mt hood in Oregon, it is an amazing place. They also employed artists and craftsmen. Which is obvious in the construction. All the hardware was custom, but it makes sense that lesser projects might have a standard handle.Sorry I don't know what that may have been.

I have made top, angled and side entry forges, Mainly because I like to cut my burner flare into the insulation rather than build a metal flare. Overall I like side because the burner tips dont seem to ever melt out like they can in a top mount. Never tried a bottom burner. I see some people here like them because you can move block around and never disturb the burner. But I have always worried about crud falling down into the burner. not sure if that is ever a real issue or not, like I said I have never played with bottom style. Good luck with the new forge!

Hey Jake, where did you find his description? I would love to read it. not on IFI that I see? Mick, very inspiring work!

yeah, customs is a funny business. I promise to hang the hammer on the wall as art, if it helps. ;)

nice idea,love the guard, and the finish fits it very well.

No way!? If you seriously can find them for sale, I would LOVE to have one! tell me where to send the money and your finders fee. It would be pretty neat to make my own puffed rice cereal.

Yeah, looks like I might be the only one impressed, but it sure looks fun to me.

I had heard of these before, but this short (31 sec) video showed up today, and I had to share. Not to spoil it, but watch what happens when all your popcorn pops at once. PS- Grant thanks for the note on posting video.

How about an axe? Or a kitchen cleaver?

My condolences as well. When I get down like that I cut back on alcohol, fried foods and no TV. Works like a charm for me.

Ahh yes, the 3000 deg rated rubber mallets, no more stinky burning rubber fumes while you concentrate on a problem. :lol:

Looks great, can't wait to see it etched!

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/12176-i-pumped-frosty-for-information-and-made-this/ this will help.

Cool, glad you got it to work. You are fortunate with the brass the zinc in it can hurt you, so be careful. Bet your girl will be happy to get that ring!

Looks clean and practical and very nice. For the given design restrictions you faced I think it is perfect. :)

I have found coins to be extremly tolerant of crud on the surface. I just use the shiny ones straight without any prep other than to wipe them down with a rag.

Oh and also be sure the billet soaks in the heat long enough, easy to melt the outside and still have a hard core. Our Nickels are very high nickel as well and they work fine.

A press is really good to use. I have used american quarters and nickels with good success. Be sure your pennies don't have zinc, they will not work if they have any. With a billet of quarters I have never been able to anneal and then forge cold, but if I keep color in a solid billet it moves fine, but slowly. I suggest doing it hot and slow (That's what she said) Also best to not hit directly on the edges until the stack has really been consolidated, normallizing helps as well. One thing to consider with a daily wear ring is the problem of nickel allergies, they are pretty commonand can come on suddenly in people that have never shown any signs. I would consider a clear coat of some kind to try and isolate the metal from the skin. Good luck on the upcoming wedding!

Not sure if this is appropriate for your application but sandblasting with baking soda leaves a soft finish, great for paint removal.

Love the copper plate and the lanyard tag! My vote for best use of a file in a long time!

Phil, yeah I , mixed up the direction to move the jet for rich/lean as i am on drugs recuperating from surgery. Sounds like you have a nice little set up for your forge now. I just can't say enough about those little burners. never thought 10 mins start to finish for a naturally aspirated burner that could liquify steel was possible. Not much else could be done to improve them is my guess. Dodge, I also tried larger tees and found out all it did for me was increase the cost of the parts. On Frosty's personal forge he uses1x1x3/4 tee's but I have been happy using straight 3/4" if there is a difference it is slight. Frosty, if you have a chance you should tell about the big 1-1/4" version you made once :ph34r:

Sorry Phil, I wasn't clear. I am using frosty's burners for daily use. I have the old adjustable burners, but they are not hooked up right now. I didn't bother adjusting them because the size of the jets were ridiculously large, I could have put them 6" down the tube and it still would have been rich. And burning that much propane was making me poor :lol:

Dodge, I have 4 very similar burners that came with my first forge. they came with massive jets that ran way too rich. Instead of working them over i just switched to Frosty's style, but maybe I should think about re-jetting them someday. What style burner is your daily use model? How do you like your forced air one? I was always concerned that it would be hard to get a reducing atmosphere with them, but not sure if that is a real problem or not.

I used cast iron like this to case harden the tips of a caliper I made and was happy with the results. allowed me the ease of forging with mild steel and extends the life of the caliper tips (because I am one of those guys that refuses to believe that calipers aren't scribes)... It is super easy (and fun) to do, everyone should try it at least once. I learned about it from a fairrier we had doing a workshop for our group.

"Yeah, I molded the flare into the lining. One less thing to burn up " Dodge,I agree, and faster to build. I liked your idea of making the tip adjustable. Cutting down the tip to tune it is my least favorite part in building these. and it would be nice to have the quicker atmosphere adjustment when needed.