Gergely

I have to tell you, Frosty, the meaning 'hole' and 'to make a hole' is still a bit difficult and comes slow for me when I hear/read the word: bore/boring. Also as a Hungarian this thing you mention about words in their unchanged state can be noun, verb and adverb was a real meltdown in the beginning. (Luckily I'm a linguist for my original profession so I've seen much worse ) Bests: Gergely

Hello! My name is Gergely and I'm an iron hoarder... I try to restrain myself continously - with more or less luck. But there are things I just can't resist or I still think it's a good opportunity. Unfortunately there are plenty of those. BigGun, your story pops up in my mind timi to time, and it always makes me sad. I'm really sorry for your loss. Bests: Gergely

Yeah, it's gonna be pretty hard to forge back into the original shape Hi Frosty! I'm not really familiar with the special names of lathe tools. It was like the longest one in the picture below: It sparked like 1045-1055 plain medium carbon steel. I have a big bunch of old lathe tools and I like them for sheperd's axes and stuff. I had some trouble with the beard going in to far. Now it's okay. Next time I'll remember to leave longer neck between the blade part and the hole. Bests: Gergely

Got some magic done on an old lathe tool: Before: After: Bests: Gergely

Hi ID, I have some unsure memories of this shape being related to stonework/masonry. I think I even have one like this somewhere. Bests: Gergely

Okay, well done! Now you have to figure out what to make of it Happy hammering! Gergely

I wish I could help you more but I can't really. This may be the 420 type martensitic stainless - the sparks look like it a little. Although there are way too many uncertain things to say it straight. Try to forge it, go for the hardening test: air - oil - water. Then you will have all the info you're able to get from scrap steel Bests: Gergely

Hi Xavier, Nice score for free! Have you tried a magnet on the shiny threaded rod? If it's not magnetic or just a very little, it's austenitic stainless. If it's magnetic and the sparks are short, reddish, and not bursting into stars it can be ferritic stainless. If you see stars at the ends of the sparks it can be the 420 like martensitic stuff. (The thread - I think - makes the austenitic the most possible.) Leaf springs are mostly in the 0,5-0,6 % carbon content range with some moderate quantities of other alloying elements (like Si, V, Cr). Bests: Gergely

Try to cut the leafspring into stripes - say 20mm wide stripes for starter and about 400 mm long. Heats up faster and it's way easier to move than a 80mm wide piece. You can do pretty big harm to any suitable piece of steel with a 2,5 pound hammer And if this brings you any relief: I started with the "same kind" of leaf spring when I started forging, and it was very tough on me too. Nowadays I can move spring steel with ease compared to how it went back then. (True that I use power hammer for most of my works ) Happy hammering! Gergely

Oh, my! That's awsome! I can't provide any info, sorry, but I like it very much. Looks like one sturdy dog. Bests: Gergely

Well, welcome to the forum, Gabe! Check this out for a bit of fun (and learning): https://www.explainxkcd.com/wiki/index.php/1114:_Metallurgy And I second Latticino on the deep pockets issue. Also I tried google with "sword made of meteorite iron" and found a few things... Bests: Gergely

Nice work, Alexandr! Cool package Bests: Gergely

Little somethings for the craft fairs in the weekend: Stainless steel plate/bowl Viking knives, not finished yet: Bests: Gergely

Happy you liked it, Frosty! Funny you mentioned timing: he told me that the guy picturing the vid asked him to forge only one piece while the video is taken. He makes two pieces in the same time Kopja is the Hungarian name for a short shafted (6') lance most usually used by cavalry. It's not for throwing but melee and/or horseback fight and also was used for hunting. Bests: Gergely

That's awesome design and execution! I can't get how it's been put together that way, but nevermind - it's just so beautiful to look at!

Heavy scrap envy from here, too! Bests: Gergely

These sorts of tools are usually made of middle C content Chrome-Vanadium or sometimes Chrome-Molybden alloys. They are good for low level knives - where the value lies in the shape and not in the high quality of the edge. If they are not too big, try some bottle openers (there is a whole topic full of ideas). Last but not least there is the scrap art line, search for the works of Ausfire, Daswulf, ScrapartOZ here in the IFI or for scrap art at Google. Although as much I can see from the pictures they are not in bad shape, so I'd collect a whole set from all the sizes - but you wrote you have tons of these, so maybe that's needless to do Bests: Gergely

It's a couple of weeks now since I finished the parang, but I totally forgot to put pictures in here. Pretty bad picture though...

Yes, Sir, I think so. It's like one real big plate shears that can handle bar and angle iron stock, too. and it's BIG!

Go, James, go!! Way to go, btw Bests and good luck on the Show! Gergely

Okay, Mark, what else did you do until now? Don't forget to take it easy, too. Our work is really one of the best things one can do, but you ought to try a couple more things as well. No preaching just saying... Happy hammering!

Hi, I think you made a hand held slitter with a hole in it. The problem is, it's too long for its thickness. It will vibrate, eventually break the handle, and maybe break in half. With handled tools you have to go shorter - especially on the struck end. They are made for heavier use so they have to hold up. (Of course if you use it lightly it will do the job.) Generally the handled punches/slitters etc. are not wedged to the handle. It's better if the tool part moves than breaking the handle or hurting your hand. I'd go with a bit bigger hole: more wood in it the longer it can hold up. I'm not sure about the edge angle - it can be very practical sometimes, but if you are a beginner it's not bad to see both sides of the stock around the chisel edge while you're splitting it. Especially when making hammers. But this is totally up to you, if you can hold the chisel the way you see the stock. But anyways: try and use it. You'll see what you need to improve. And don't get me wrong, I don't say you made it badly, I just commented on the geometry part. Bests: Gergely

This little darling followed me home. Needs new blades, but even with a broken blade it cut 1/4 thick plate with no big trouble. Bests: Gergely

Thank you Gentlemen! I'd go with draw bar then . It's between the tractor and its trailer. Although it's big and heavy it wasn't made for sideways pressure, that's why it's deformed. (And heavy is a bit relative when there is a full loaded trailer connected to a tractor, isn't it?) Bests: Gergely

Not the best for your creativity but these things help pay the bills If anyone recognizes this part in the second picture, please tell me its name. Thanks! Bests: Gergely