chris freeman

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Everything posted by chris freeman

  1. Neil, As I did state in the first or second post, I did normalize. 3 heats. I truly think it decarbed because of too many heats. I guess from the way I worded it it sounds like that. I ment to say, I normalized 3x then brought it back up to temp and quenched. Thanks though.
  2. yes I did normalize it. I brought it up to critical temp then reduced it to just under and quenched. I didn't think I over heated it. They weren't course crystals. they were actually very fine. I actually probably heated it too many times during the forging process. I bet I did get excessive decarb from that.
  3. I've been using canola oil for years now. I've not had many problems except for recently. I have been trying to get a big bowie knife quenched. I forged it out of leaf spring. It would not harden. At least with a file check. The file seemed to dig in every time. I tried 3 or 4 times. Finally I tried water. The file seemed to dig even still but it warped my blade. I tried to straighten it and it broke. The broken ends were very crystallized. I guess it hardened. But why didn't the file skate off? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Chris
  4. I live in Colorado and I hear alot that forced air is recommended here. I see alot of atmospheric burners here so, what gives? Personally I think it's a pain in the xxx to have forced air. I am currently in the process of deciding on building new burners that are either Frosty's T burner style or bell reducer style. I was wondering what the difference is between the two. Does anyone have any insight on which is better? I'm looking at both styles but am kinda leaning towards the T burners. I'm thinking that since I'm at @ 5000' above sea level then the T burner would produce more O2 mixture. So????? Thanks, Chris
  5. Thanks a ton guys! I'll start with the floor. keep ya posted.
  6. I don't have any idea of what I would swap my blower and gas jet with. I'm a single dad of 3 teenage boys so I do everything on a budget as I always have. If I can build it I will. I buy materials as needed though. I did but the plans for that forge 10 years ago. Is there a post with a tutorial to show me how to build a better forge? I'm all for it. Actually I'd like to get the one I have working well instead of rebuilding a whole new one. I've always been that way. I will also redo my profile so it's done right. Thanks for the help Frosty I guess I meant a tutorial for a different burner.
  7. No it's just a 1" brick, I thought about that and am going to insulate it.
  8. Thanks Mikey, I actually bought the plans for the forge and burner 10 years ago and i know it's a good design as a lot of smiths have used it and still do. I just don't know if the mods that I've done have made it not do as well. I'm not familiar with baffled walls, although the flame is kinda hard to see, I do know what it's supposed to look like and it is a good crisp blue flame. I thought i was using the proper castable refractory. It fires real well and does withstand the heat very well. It does not burn, melt or deform at all. I've used stuff that didn't withstand that kind of heat but this stuff that I ordered does and it hardens very well. I just don't like the cracking. If you have a suggestions on something better then please, I'm all ears.
  9. By the way, the doors have 1.5" of kaowool lining as well. The space as of right now is about 10" deep X 6" high. I don't know how to get the cubic inches but that's the space I'm heating. I guess the other question I have is, is that too much area for one burner with forced air. I live in Colorado so I can't do atmospheric. Please and thank you again for any help. Chris
  10. This is not the first time i have applied refractory cement to my forge. In fact I've done it several times. I've been having a hard time getting my forge up to welding temp and staying there long enough to weld at a efficient rate. I doubled up the kaowool hoping that reducing the space would help. I only have one burner in my propane bottle forge. I applied a coat of refractory then filled in the cracks that weren't actually too bad. When That cured the cracks were much worse. I let it cure for 48 hours both times. I want to fire it but don't want any cracks as the goal is to not let any heat escape to behind the refractory lining. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they took care of it. I could fill in the cracks again but it seems that they would just come back through. I also was wondering if I should fill in the cracks then fire it on low heat. then obviously increase to complete the firing process. Thanks, Chris
  11. There are a few tutorial on you tube on how to make a pneumatic graver machine. That's the route I'm going.
  12. good stuff. i aggree. usually thats how it goes and always has. if i can just fix it i will. -chris
  13. hey dave, if i quench it in canola oil, will that work for hardening it? it's all i have right now.
  14. yeah, the whole " make new ones" is the best advise. they are very old. and i have already cut off the mushroomed ends. the buiseness ends are fine but some of the striked ends are cracking. i know they're not wrought iron or even low carbon steal because they spark like XXXX. very vibrant... another words i've done a spark test on all of them.
  15. it was already a set hammer. i didn't turn it into one. it was just a tool that i never used and i really need a hot cut set hammer. i did put it into the forge, not just grinding. so, if i quench it in oil should that harden it enough to use it for cutting. i use hot cuts for splitting axe boddies to recieve a cutting bits and such. so they are obviously precise cuts. the cracking that i was talking about on the other post was refering to some of my other set hammers. these ones were not forged by myself and are made by someone many years ago. i imagine they are at least 50 years old. they are in good shape though. i appologize, but i've been having a hard time uploading pics i'll keep trying though.
  16. iv'e been having a problem with my set hammers cracking at the striking point. at the head. these tools are pretty old, so i guess i'm asking , can i just cut off the end just a little bit and re-harden it or just let it work harden? if this isn't enough info then i can put up some pics. -chris.
  17. i have an old set hammer that i never use that was a large punch. i needed a hot cut set hammer, so i turned it into one. i flattened it out and grinded it down. i did aneal it but do i need to heat treat it or can i just nutralize it and will it harden with work?
  18. hey man, thanks alot you've been alot of help. yeah, my daughter is really getting into smithing and i love it. it will really cool when we take a welding class together. again thanks, chris
  19. ok, i have found a linclon225 buzz box for $125, miller thunderbolt HD6 for $175, a Forney AC 225(it says it's a linclon) for $150, and a wards power craft 180 amp for $95. i'm leaning towards the buzz box. i would love to hear some feedback on those. thanks, chris
  20. wow, thanks everybody for the input. i actually am looking into a class at CDC here in CO. my daughter goes there and she's getting the info for me. cool thing is, she want to take the class with me. i'm deffinantly gonna do alot mre reading and reserch before i make a move on what machine to get. if i could jump on something right now i think it would be smart to get an AC stick for now. unless i find a screeming deal on an AC/DC. thanks again, chris
  21. jim, what exactly is AC DC compaired to the average welder? i'm gonna install a 220 outlet in ,my garage to run my trip hammer. it is a very large motor and really needs to be converted to 220, which it's capable. i will be able to run a 220 welder.
  22. thanks for the reply. so, is a humpback stick welder gonna do as good as a job as a decent mig? i know the cheep flux core migs are cheep and don't do the job but iv'e always heard that stick welders are just better.
  23. i'm in the market for a little welder. iv'e had a little 110v 90amp flux core welder in the past and it always through the breaker and it left very dirty welds. to be honest thats the only machine iv'e ever welded with. the types of things i was welding for the most part, were pretty small and it frustratingly did the job. i do weld alot of handles onto billets for forge welding and they come off frequently during forging. i guess i am asking if it would be better if i put in a 220 breaker and plug in my garage which would be very easy, then get a little arc welder or a little gas/flux 220 welder. the thing is , would i still be able to weld smaller gauge steal as well as bigger welds without blowing the breaker every 30 seconds? i have found several little arc welders on craigslist from 75 to 150 bucks and small migs for 125- 250. i really don't want to spend anymore than 200. i kinda can't right now but i don't have a welder at all right now and i really need one asap. any suggestions would be great, -chris
  24. my name is chris. it's been a couple years since i've been on this forum. i've had all of my shop put away is storage for a while since i've lived in an apartment. now i'm back in a house and i've gotten everything set up again. yeah!!! :lol: anyway, i am doing some maintenance on my propaine bottle forge. i'm having a problem getting it up to welding temp. i was having this problem before i moved so i just use coal. it didn't stop me from welding. now i can't use coal cus of were my place is located. well, lastnight i relined the kaowool with new refactory clay because all the old clay flaked all off over time. i think that is why i was having this problem. i think the heat was escaping due to not enough insulation as i was able to weld with no problems when i firstr built it. this time, i pulled out a thin layer of the kaowool and lined the majority of the insulation with the clay. i let it set at room temp overnight @ 22 hours, then i went out and fired it up at about 3psi with air and let it run with the piece of kaowool replaced (permanently) for about 30 minutes. then i let it cool and ran it again for about 15 more minutes. the clay has hardend and it doesn't steem anymore. my question is, should i fire it a few more times or should that be good to start working again. by the way i live in colorado and it's pretty **** cold out. but not so much in my shop as the forge has heated it up. thanks, chris