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I Forge Iron

scruffy forge

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    Norfolk Virginia
  1. I tempered it at 400` for 2hrs in my toaster over.
  2. I did stock removal. I normalized it twice and then quenched in motor oil. I preheated the oil by quenching a piece of metal in it prior to quenching the knife.
  3. I was gifted a piece of O1 tool steel and figured I would make a knife out of it. I have made plenty out of old files and railroad spikes, but this is the first I have ever gotten to play with O1. This is what I came up with It's 1/4" thick with a 4 1/4" blade and a 3 1/2" handle made out of flame maple and a kydex sheath. This is also the first time I have tried to do file work on a knife. Any feedback would be appreciated.
  4. The tongs, hammer, or tool you need and just put down has vanished and will not show up until you are done with what you needed it for.
  5. im useing a 3/4" burner with a .35 mig tip and my forge is 17 1/2" X6" with 1" kao wool. im going to try the water before i link the 2 tanks in parrallel. thanks again for all the help!! shon
  6. Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like I need a bigger tank or two and trash cans with water to put them in. The tanks I have are the small ones you would use on a BBQ or rv.
  7. im wanting to link 2 propane tanks to one burner. the reason im think of doing this is i keep loosing pressure after running my forge for a little bit and thats with turning it off between heats. i was think by useing 2 tanks i will slow down the time it takes for the tanks to freeze. the way i plan on doing this is to a hose from each tank to a T fitting and from that to the burner. im useing a 3/4 in burner. so my questions are. 1, em i right about that? 2, will i have a issue with 1 tank trying to fill the other tank if they are not at the same levels? 3, has anyone done this? if so how did you go about it and did it work out for you? any advice would be greatly appreciated shon
  8. A power hammer would be my number 1 closely followed by a good belt sander with differant radius rollers, a mandrel, and a post vice.
  9. When i grow up i want to be able to make amazing peices of art like these. really nice work
  10. I use a wire weel on my bench grinder to clean up the scale and anything else on the twist, after that i take it to the buffer with a medium shine/clean compound.
  11. I will be getting 1"x2" bell reducers and cutting the tubes down to 9". Attaching the jets is a little fuzzy. If i'm understanding you right, drill a hole all the way through the center of the bell, drill and tap the top of the bell above one of the holes for a set screw? Did I get that right? To make the V block put one piece of angle iron down and the other against it upright so the V's point in different directions. Then drill the .045 hole. Is that a specialty bit? And small bits like that dont fit in my drill press. Do they make attachments for bits like that? What did you mean by "NOTIONALLY, NOT LITERALLY"? In the middle of the nipple length not the center of the tude? Just so I can line it up correctly down the burner right? For the flare I can get a nipple and flare it, then drill and tap a spot for a set screw to make it easly adjusted. For the choke plate, that goes on the back of the bell? I should be able to drill and tap that as well. That would allow me to swing it in and out as needed. And I have absolutly no machine shop skills. My high school didnt have one. All that I do in this field is self tought with the help of a little reading, you tube, and people who are willing to work with someone who has no skill in this at all. Thank you Shon
  12. The door at the front only cavers about half the opening which should allow the gasses to escape. I want to rebuild the 2 I have, but after hearing how bad off they are im not sure that is the best way to go. I think making the jet larger wont be to difficult to do. Its attatching it and getting it to stay put centered and straight. Were does the tip of the jet need to be? To make the jet bigger on mine I was thinking of useing a set up a lot like dave hammers. The only thing is it will move the jet farther down the reducer. And it would be a bigger set up along with a bigger bracket. Is this a bad idea? And do you recamend rebuilding or starting new? Thank you Shon
  13. My forge is 17 1/2" X6" I plan on using 1" kaowool. I have never used or seen ITC 100 before but I do plan on using some. So that is about 220 cu/in. The hole I have cut is in the middle. I have a door on the front and plan on making one for the back. Yes I did mean bell reducer. Will the 1 3/4" one I have do the job? or do I need to get a 2"? Is burner length a big factor? Both of mine are 10" long. The jet diameter is the same size as my .030 mig tips. Since I already have ,030 mig tips would those work for a 1" burner? If not does a .045 have the same thread pattern and is it the same size? I have a tap that is the right size for the tipps i have now. I just watched Dave Hammers burner build video and I have most of the parts to make the burner he has there. If my calculations are correct a 3/4" burner should bring my forge up to welding heat. Do you agree? I have used a similar forge to make a few damascus knives before. To help against the flux destoying the inside I will be useing fire brick to help slow that down as best as possible. Thank you Shon
  14. Frosty, The outer tube diameter is 1 1/4" and the inner diameter is 1" for both burners. The flange on the first one's inner diameter is 1 3/4" and the second one is 2 3/4". I dont know what you mean by the jet diameter. Is a flare needed on the style of burner I have? I did some looking through the gas forge/burner pages and found a really good example of what it should be like. In a thread called "I pumped Frosty for information and made this". I think while trying to fix my current burner I will start making one of your T burners. I did a lot of reading on IFI today at work and I liked what I read about the Ejector burners. I have tried before to find a good blueprint of your T burner before but never found one until today. It will take a while to make due to my hobby money comes from selling knives. Unfortunetly I need a forge that works to do that. On a side note. I plan on relining my forge soon. have you ever heard of or used superwool? Is it as good as kaowool? Thank you vary much for the help. Shon
  15. I got my forge from the guy who tought me how to make knives. He gave me all that I needed, forge, burner, and a little railroad anvil. It took me a long time to actually do anything with it. Since then I went back to him and bought his anvil from him. He threw in a bunch of steel for damascus and a better burner and set up. This is my forge. I know it needs a little work, I plan on rerelining it soon. This is the first burner he gave me . The 2 problems I am having with this burner is 1) I cant get it to stay on the pipe part. I tried to solder it and I also put a set screw in. It is brass so I cant weld it. 2) Since I have tried to solder it a few time the area by the valve leaks sometimes. The valve and pin hole assembly look like they are off a BBQ side burner. At least a lot like my BBQ anyway. This is it running This is the second burner I have . The problem i'm having with this one is that in order to get it hot enough to really work with I have to turn the PSI up to 17-20. To get it as hot as the other burner it has to be 30 and up PSI. Here is a pic of both . Looking through this site and also on google I have seen pics were the burner is running out of the forge and it produces a amazing looking flame. Ive also read that its a good way to tune your burner. Neither of my burners will run out of the forge unless you turn it almost all the way off. This is what it looks like when you just crack it open barely, open it much farther and it blows itself out . Any help, suggestions, and critcism would be greatly appriciated.
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