David Edgar

When I built my press, I just bought whatever was available, welded the frame up, mounted the cylinder and valves, got the largest motor with a pump attached and plumbed it up and by sheer good luck it worked. I did get a professional to check hoses,connections etc. My point is I didn't do any calcs. My son has asked me what would be necessary to move 1000kg (1 ton) through 300mm (1 foot) and back 30 times a minute. He is ready to buy the equipment necessary, I do not know if this is feasible with hydraulics or whether an electric motor and linear drive is better. If anyone is clever enough and can be bothered with yet another request for help, it would be greatly appreciated. Even if it is just to say it is not possible. Thank you for reading this.

Now I can't get the image of lederhosen, red hat and Hawaiian shirt out of my head, lol.

The Sahinler is very similar to the Sayha or Saymak and the Kuhn or Reiter which were the forebears,probably ,some Turkish workers in Germany decided they could make them back home for less money.They are all very good hammers.Good Luck.

Hi Wiseiron, Were there any identifying marks on the anvils or blocks? Keep a close eye on the anvils section of the internet website that rhymes with tray. I'll look out for them as well.Use the search that refines those closest to your home, as Thomas suggests try a phone call to the local scrap yards as steel is fetching a good price again. I doubt if they will be very helpful but you never know. David.

Hi John, PM sent.

Thank you all for comments and observations, Very helpful. David

Thank you for your reply and the link to previous thread,Do you have any idea of displacement in CFM of SM50? David

I have noticed on some videos with Saya or Saymaks they are fitted with a small can like Filter and silencer up on top where the inlet and exhaust pipes are, they are only about 4 or 5 inches in diameter with a few small holes in.My ports are 1inch BSP thread and these silencer/filters screw straight into them. Does anyone know where I can get them And do they affect the flow rate adversely,(I live in UK) Thank you for your time. David

In the summer when the air is too warm to condense the moisture, I coil the air line up in a container of cold water to act as a heat exchanger to give the water traps a fighting chance to catch the droplets of water.

I thought this post was about making a fire pot to burn a few logs in out on the patio,OOPS, Sorry.

Business Link was an excellent source of help and advice as it was given freely by successful local business men, usually retired, they also knew how to source grants and funding. Alas, due to economic climate, the government has closed it down. If you are a member of BABA I am sure someone there could point you in the right direction, if any are available.

Sounds like you are most of the way out of that hole, sometimes the last bit can be the most stubborn but you are going in the right direction, your instincts are showing the way. It's an age old, well worn mantra but it works, "Every day in every way, I am getting better" I know it sounds corny and facile, but since I was diagnosed with a brain tumour, I find it is a good way to start the day.Good Luck. Happy New Year.

Think of the fun you are going to have all over again, but at your own pace, like everyone else has said.

Never forge weld before 11am, the anvil should have warmed up by then. Early risers adjust to suit.

If it is a Philips screw with a damaged head,put an elastic band between the head and screwdriver and push driver well home BEFORE trying to loosen it. If a steel bolt is broken and stuck in threads then mig weld a piece of scrap across the bit sticking out. The heat will help to loosen it.Brass being softer is better to drill and use an extractor,for cast do as Iron Dwarf suggests. Whichever method you use,it's better to loosen a little at a time.

My health, unfortunately not even Santa can swing that one. A very happy Christmas and may the New year bring all you wish for.