Avadon

It's funny how there can be like 20lbs of rod poured into a thing and then you go up and put your hand on it and it wobbles or breaks. lol The worlds largest cold shut weld.

I have one of these wrenches as well made by Pexto. A rare find on ebay. The top tine of the wrench has a flat round surface on the back of it. It is intended for use as a hammer. I believe these were produced to work on train engines and other heavy duty applications. You'll love the wrench they are extremely hardy. I never welded a handle for twisting on mine. Just couldn't see myself ruining such a nice wrench. I bought a little cheap wrench for doing twisting.

Anyone got any reccomendations on this page as to what you think would be a generally good hard facing rod to tig weld onto the surface of mild steel for an anvil surface? https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF::::PE08

I'll try to find H-13, A-2, D-2 and O-1 tool steel tig rod or some drill rod now that I know what i'm looking at. Thanks. You all are right, it aint cheap.

Cool I have only tested the cayenne for a few mins so far. I have a fabrication project on my table right now that is taking center stage, but when that is done i'll test the psi ranges but I bet they are pretty close throughout the line. After you got your Tabasco did you ever go back to your coal forge or was it basically a one way evolution. I hope I still use my coal forge from time to time cause I did put a lot of work into it but the ease of use of the gas chile forge almost makes it hard to justify all the setup and time spent outside doing the charcoal thing.

Those are their models. I only have a Cayenne but i'm hoping others here might have some of the other models. I haven't seen the other models outside of pics on their site. So I was hoping someone would post them.

Nice, i'm excited for you! How long did they say you have to wait? I had to wait about 2-3 weeks. Maybe they are less backed up now. Your gonna love having it. Christmas in July! lol I'm ordering some extra ITC-100 from them so I can coat the extra protective shelf I bought and the rear insert. I don't know if that will really amount to anything but it doesn't hurt.

Woah.. that is a serious operation. So it's like a can of air, once it gets half way down the pressure drops and the cylinder starts getting all frosty on the outside? Is that because the liquid cannot turn into gas fast enough? :confused: I've seen idler valves but I bet if you were inventive one could just rig some kind of on/off foot petal that sends the forge from idle into a desired setting.

LOL... I'm THOMAS POWERS HERE FOR "ANVIL HUNTING THE RIGHT WAY" You could work for telebrands. hehe

Seems like that would make a decent anvil for some work but when your hammering it doesn't have a lot of mass under neath any one section. Only 4". The rest of the mass might help absorb blows. If it was square then you could use it on it's side and then you would get the full 20" of mass under each blow. What were these anvils originally used for? Correcting saw blades?

@Kasper, yah this is a great forge for general blacksmithing and blademaking. Hard to beat it. Of course no forge is going to do everything because different work requires different setup. So for armour people usually use an oxy/acet torch, weed burner, or some type of more open burner since the heat is not as necessary for sheet but you do need the opennes for the complex shapes. @Greebe Their prices on their website. They told me that on a 20lb tank it will run for a few hours. So they reccomend a larger propane tank if your going to use it heavy. It was just all I curently have on site. Lowes has 100lb propane tanks for like $150. Thinking about one of those from lowes or just renting/owning from airgas. Come winter time i'll certainly not have to worry about heat in the shop. But until then I'll have my fans on bringing in as much air as I can.

Does anyone know what rod i'm looking at for laying down a hard faced bed with TIG welding. Also are there any good tutorials for doing this on mild steel? Any idea to what rockwell hardness this makes the surface? Does it resist hammer blows/smiles quite well? :confused:

Thought I would share some pics of my new Cayenne Forge. Recieved the Cayenne a few days ago. It was packed in excellent condition with incredible care. All things wrapped individually with bubble wrap, cardboard and tons of peanuts. It came in two huge boxes. Really impressive. The welds are really nice and the forge is incredibly stout. It's a fairly good size unit and at max psi ~20 it puts out an insane amount of heat . Even at low PSI this thing really pushes out incredible heat. I can't see any need for three burners when you can just have two superburners. A picture is worth a thousand words so I thought i'd take some pics today to show you my new setup. # Chamber Openings: 9"W x 3.5"H Front & Back # Interior Dimensions: 9"W x 4"H x 16"L # Weight: 65 lbs. If you have a Tabasco, Haba

I like using the grill I made. I don't know if you can see in the pictures but there are some small feet (tabs) I welded under the grill. That allows the grill to sit like 3/4" above the plate with the holes in it that sits inside the brake drum. I also have two little round handles on the sides of that grill I welded up so if necessary I could lift it out hot with a hook, although that is something i've never had the need for. But those hooks also make it easy to lift it out period. The space between the grill and plate allow a good volume of air to rush under the wood/charcoal/coal/coke or whatever i'm burning. Because it's kind of a bin/hopper design I often just burn wood in it and burn that down to really hot embers/coals. Then I will occasionally toss in a shovel of charcoal or coal. It's fun to make mini bon fires in it. I just wear a shade 5 face shield and I can get really close if I want, but when I get serious I wait till the flames die out and start using the really hot stuff underneath. You can get to forge weld fairly easily in a firepot. I just turn the hairdryer to high and I have bright orange heat (sparking) heat. :D

Mini Forge This is a really cool little thing Bentiron.. I could see that being really handy for jewelers. You need to market that thing all over.

I knew I lifted it from somewhere. You can right away see the benefits of such a design. I'm going to use a burner from my cayenne to fuel this. They are just plug fit so I can move the burners back and forth as need be. Excellent for armour but i'd guess I can rig it to be hot enough to heat very hard to reach places on large projects. I can use the cayenne burner/regulator on this when necessary, so if anything the Chili Forge is more then versatile for anything I want to do with it. Now that you've steered me to where I got it from i'll have to post on AA to find the smith who came up with it and pick his brain for some more design notes. :cool:

Philip, you should email that snapshot to Incadescent Iron Works ASAP so they can put it up on their main page. One picture is better then no picture. If you like I will even clean it up a bit in photoshop, (make the picture look a little more appealing), pm me if interested.

Yah the flame cut was nowhere near as bad as what I expected. so I'll probably just angle grind it up some. The hard facing is not a bad idea but I've always heard this is a real chore, but maybe the chore part is the clean-up/machining it level. Maybe I could make it really simple if i'm just angle grinding it down. Blind Viper or Thomas, do you have a link to the process? I'll have to take a video of it, because the ring on this thing.. well.. lets just say it's a lot higher and louder then my Nimba. But it will still be easier on the neightbors then my little 20lb piece of steel I was hammering on. If all goes well Brian Brazeal will be proud, if it does not, he will laugh. Either way this should be "interesting".

Methinks he doth protest to much. The chiliforge speaks for itself. Note the people who have bought them like them and chiliforge isn't on here running their mouth negatively about customers who decided to go with another option. I think you could learn a lot from the way they do business. But like you said, "you don't need the sales", so why are you on here trying to insult me via inference. It's a really passive aggressive game you play. "Buy from me, or take crap from me" seems to be the way you work. You told me directly you didn't need my sale, now your here calling me out. Childish anyone? Jeeeze!

Ayye.. Har she be!! 4" wide x 13" long x 16" tall. She's laying on her side. Sorta like the obelisk from 2001 I went a little crazy when I saw it and started slapping it. lol

I don't know if at your time of purchase they had this option but they now sell replaceable protective bed armor for the cayenne forge so you never have to worry about replacing the bottom, you simply replace the replaceable shelf when necessary. I think your right about anything that you are putting this much constant heat into daily is going to need replacing/reworking and some extra money over time. Even coal forges can rust through their pans or shatter their firepots. I'll let you know if I run into any troubles with my new cayenne.

Cool.. I will take a look at the block tommorow when it arrives and see how bad it is and how much work it needs. Thank you for the offer.

Your braver then I am if you'll hand over your credit card to someone who doesn't even have a picture of their product on their site and there is little to no word of mouth about these anvils and no history of their use. They may be great anvils, they may be boat anchors, but my point was that only time will tell the difference between the two.

It's a little confusing. Actually were talking about two different things. One was how to get a perfectly true/flat surface to weld and fabricate on, at least to get tack welds setup and such. The other thing I was talking about is how to get a large piece of flame-cut plate true on the ends. I don't NEED it .0100 flat to make a blade or really to make anything, I WANT it that flat lol. If it was a need I'd either shell out the cash or find something else. But you know what they say about wanting and wishing. So I'll most likely just have to settle for eyeball flatness. But I still will call up some grinding companies and see how much they charge for some loose tolerances (like +/- .015) to ease my curiousity.

Ooooh.. griding cones, I didn't even think of that. I guess the 9" grinder gives a lot more opportunity for flatness then using a 4.5" grinder on a 4" wide surface. I suppose with a 4.5" grinder I will probably end up doing some rounding. I'll just use my square from the side to see if i have any highspots. I guess if I can get it even decently close to level i'll be far better off then a lot of beaten up anvils out there. :cool: