Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Grumpy'sWorkshop

Members
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Grumpy'sWorkshop

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Minneapolis

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ok, that's all I needed to hear. John from Black Bear Forge is what got me started on this project, and looking closely at his hammer, he just rolled the spring over like a hinge. I forgot to pick up the DOM tubing the plan calls for and regular pipe would be a little sloppy, so it's either forge it, drill out a piece of round stock, or make a trip and lose half a day. I'll leave the heat treatment stuff out and see what happens - it's not like I can't fix it later. Should be up and banging banging by the end of the week. Thanks
  2. I'm about halfway through this build, and just getting started welding it all together. Clay specifies 5160 for the flat spring and W1 for the hammer axle, which I purchased, but he says nothing about heat treatment and they didn't come hardened. Does he just specify having higher quality steel for those particular parts or is it implied that they should be hardened and tempered? I was also planning on forging my eye on the end of the flat spring instead of welding on a pipe, which should be stronger in the long run. If anything, I'm thinking a quench and good blue temper would give both part
  3. The firepot is already pretty flush, but I might yet take out at least the front cutout. I'm hesitant on the rear since I'm using this on a gravel parking spot that's not level and tips away slightly. This sounds like a great compromise as well, I'd need a bigger cap, my clinker hole is 3" across. but a bigger cap would stick up more too. Always good to hear an idea works. Thanks!
  4. I made a new coal forge, and ran it for the first time yesterday. Wow, what a difference having a good set up and good coal makes. Only problem I was having was heating the center of a bar. My firepot is quite deep - around 5" to the rim. and my cutouts are about another inch above that so laying a bar across is about 6" from the bottom of the pot. I can mound the coal up higher and get it to a red heat, but doing that repeatedly seems kinda wasteful with that much coal burning below it. I like the current depth for small work, anything I can stick an end in is perfect, so I'm not about to mak
  5. Sort of, more like using leg power to lift and preload the spring. Like a mechanical power hammer's upstroke. The following drop would have the spring and falling momentum driving the weight, with no direct connection to the treadle. The hit would be on a delay, but more like stomp-spring-bang vs stomp-bang. Repeated blows could come one after another if a rhythm can be maintained in time with the weight. 200 lbs at 1/10th the pivot distance is added force, but you're mostly just defeating the lifting springs and the weight's momentum is providing the bulk of the forging power. Travel tim
  6. Ok, so I'm just a beginner and this is a very crude design idea, so don't spend too much time on it. Imho, a lot of treadle hammer designs I've seen are flawed in 2 ways - the weight is brought down by the foot through the linkage - so your foot feels the hit as it bottoms out, and the springs just bring the weight back up, fighting against the blow the whole way and adding nothing to the falling weight. I then saw this video, specifically the time shown, and I had a silly thought - why push down when the spring and weight are doing the work? If stomping on the treadle did the opposite, r
×
×
  • Create New...