Rhyfelwr

A while back I had some, not sure where I picked it up (just scrapping). I am pretty sure it wasn't aluminum, maybe it was steel core? It peened like mild steel..

I just finished this folder, specs are as follows: 5" Red Oak Handle (one peice!). The blade is made from the leavings of another knife, but I believe its a buggy spring. Holds an edge rather well. I hand sanded and filed the blade and handle, overall I think I have 3 hours in this knife. Oh and the handle finish is Linseed oil. I am curious what would you charge for something like this? I mostly give my creations away as birthday/Christmas gifts.. But recently I have a local store owner wanting to retail some and I am at a loss as to what to charge. Thanks for looking!

I have been using a peice of 12"x3" round bar steel as my anvil for a while now and it seemed to work just fine set on end sunk into a stump. The edges rounded off after a while and the face mushroomed a bit in 2 years.. I just recently bought myself a 113# Hay-Budden and am now realizing what I was missing!

Thanks, I paid $200 for it.. But I have been hunting for one for a while now.

I just bought a #114 Hay-Budden serial number is A17956 can anyone tell me the year? Thanks!

I watched that Jim Poor video, and boy does he know how to make tongs. Pretty ones too! I laughed like crazy when his wife and friend joined in.. They were spot on. Showed my wife that part :P

I never know what to ask for something unless I see a price online or at somebodies stand.. Its real hard starting out to figure out what to price something you craft. Thats why I like posts like this.. You get everyones opinion.. Nice work.. I'd probably rivit, since I lack a welder..

I haven't been on here recently.. But thanks for the comments everyone. Thomas: I usually am pretty good about not splitting the woods I use but Osage is new to me as a handle material.. I don't think I actually noticed that knot! As for re-handling the blade, my heat treat had some inconsistencies and after I used the knife a while I was dissatisfied with it (I think I end up that way with all my own knives). Anyway I've moved on to several blades since, right now I am working on a camp knife for a civil war artifact hunter.

How did you get the scrolls on it/in it? Did you weld them on or cut and work the whole thing from a single piece of 3/8"x1" bar? Looks great by the way!

I recently decided to mess with some Osage Orange, so I made a little folder and handled it in Osage. The blade is a fragment of a lawnmower blade, the rest of which is a Bowie knife I made for my Dad. The pins were supposed to be copper, which is what I usually pin handles with except this time the wire I grabbed had some nickel in it. The axle pin is steel. The only thing I was not happy about was the handle split just a hair, but apparently it didn't lose a lot of strength. And here are the pictures!

Looks pretty decent! Especially for a first knife. Is the blade stock removal or forged to shape?

Actually it looks really good, rivets included! I am surprised that you didn't split the maple handle, most of the time when I try and use a soft wood like maple I split them. Especially at first. Looks very decent for a first handled knife. Try working around the edge on the rivet heads, basically rounding them out. Hard to explain but gets easier with practice.

I like the forge.. The poker looks good as well.. I use a piece of 3"x 12" round steel upended in a stup for an anvil.. I also have two pieces of railroad track but they seem to have to much spring in them unless I turn them up on end.

Looks good.. Where'd you get so many hoof rasps? It looks like you just wrapped the rasp around and welded it too itself to make the eye..

So.. Am I to think Bruce commands no reinventing the wheel? Or are you saying its all been done every way it can be? :D

Heat it back up and draw it down into a point (if you can't cut it) and then worry about thinning the blade back. I usually forge the point roughly first and the form the blade and work back to the point again. There really isn't a wrong way to do it. Usually just whatever works. Do you have any pictures?

Looks good.. Much better looking than my first knife, in fact I think it looks better than my first file knife! Keep 'em coming.

Looks good, the color after you snapped it off looks like it might be too hard. How much flex did you get?

Both, its the way I hold the metal on the anvil sometimes.. And sometimes its just the angle I work it with the hammer. To keep it symmetrical you have to swap sides every once in a while, I learned by trial and error. Keep at it, looks good for a first or second knife!

Wow.. It came out really nice.. Looks very solid.

Also I've never heard of anyone keeping their anvil or hammer wet while forging.. Seems like it would promote rust, and just turn to steam when the hot metal hit it.. And wouldn't it also cool the steel you were working faster? Just my thoughts.

Looks good, you never learn anything sitting on your hands. I advise jumping right in and keep it up. Though most rebar isn't terribly great for blades. Are you going to finish it up and put an edge on it? I'd like to see how it turns out! Post pics.