Mr Smith

I'm on the left hand side of the country, but, except for a day's stint on a gas forge, I've used nothing but charcoal. We get ours from a bloke out in the country. That redhead stuff looks okay, but how much is it? How much would a day's forging set you back? If you've got some acreage, you could try burning your own. Malcolm Paine's book has a good how-to on it. If I couldn't burn charcoal, I'd go a gas forge, though...

It'd all depend on what you have available... Firstly the rust.....If I assume you have the bare minimum, then personally, I'd remove all the rust with a wire brush or failing that, any stiff brush, like a scrubbing brush. Next up I'd chuck it in a container of vinegar to clean off the remaining rust. Let it soak, and then clean it up with some steel wool. Either that or a wire wheel fitted to a bench grinder. Unless it's *huge* rust, don't stress too much. some fine rust is okay. Big flakes are not. Fitting a handle is a story in itself, and I'm sure there'll be a flurry of posts in short order. :)

Hi all! Not so much an introduction as a re-introduction. Most of you probably won't remember me, but I used to post here quite regularly in 2006 or so, until university and other non-smithing stuff got in the way. I'm a regular member of BAWA (the Blacksmiths' Asoociation of Western Australia) and I've been smithing for the last 8 years or so.

Hi Frank. Thanks for the feedback! Especially the heads up on the weld - I hadn't considered that it may be stronger. The first step down is done with the flat bar in a vertical position, so that I am striking the 12mm face, rather than the 25mm. I use flat bar because, if done the way I've indicated, the parts of the pivot will stay flat. Having said that, I used a pair of railway spikes to make a pair of tongs once, and they turned out alright.

I'll just leave this here... -_-

Dude, I have loads. My advice to all starting blacksmiths is to keep a small (A5 or A4) sketchbook. Draw up diagrams for *everything* you do, or see, or read, that's related to smithing. It'll pay off in the end. I used to knock up a "how to" once a week or so. Usually this would be an A4 sheet, with all the details required to complete a project from go to whoa. Glenn would convert these into a blueprint. I'll have a bit of free time in a couple weeks to draw up some new'uns - any takers for some more???

I think Ian's speaking from experience there ;-)

The Hrisoulas Inaugural knife show.... just planting seeds.

Whatever, Thomas. Once again, I have tried to provide something of value to the Iforgeiron community, and you have decided to ride rough-shod all over it. I don't understand what the problem is.. I posted something related to blacksmithing, in a blacksmithing thread, on a blacksmithing forum. Honestly, Thomas, If you can't accept another person's opinion, perhaps the internet isn't for you? I apologise to the other people following this thread; I have added what I felt necessary - I won't waste any more of your time - Thomas seems to be more than capable of fielding all of your questions. Get it hot, and hit it hard Mr Smith

Thomas, from what I had read, the jury was still out. I *assume* I'm reading the same posts you were. Some people stated that they had seen sand used to no avail, some were stating that it depends on the type of metal used, et cetera. What I was stating was that I had seen sand used, and it works. Sand. Plain sand. Not a "mud-daubers'" nest. Not crushed glass. On all types of steel. That's my contribution. In future, I'll pm you and ask if it's okay to post anything before I do so.

I have. Was there something I missed? I know a smith, who has spent many years in the trade. His advice on the subject is that sand is a *better* flux, and that I should throw the borax away.

I've seen sand used. It works. The idea being that small amounts are used as and where needed to stop the sparking. As for cost - it's lying around all over.

So when are we getting to the bit about making swords?

How'd you find it working with the sunlight on your anvil? :)

Have a look at Tim Lively's site... Arrowhead Tutorial this seems like a good way of doing it... I was planning on knocking out a load of theses for a medieval fayre. I figure you could probably mix and match a little, i.e have a socketed broadhead, by altering the plan a little.

I think the picture speaks for itself.... might be time for a new picture,eh Chop?? The bloke's got his anvil way too high, IMHO

Hairspray works on wasps too.... It hardens on their wings and they can't fly

It all depends on your definition of "bare minimum". I've bent up metal around a campfire using nothing more than a length of pipe. For "useful" smithing, I would say something to pound on, something to pound with, fire and metal. If you're using a long enough piece of metal, you can hang on to the cool end rather than use tongs.

A forge, a hammer, and something to pound on, oh and your workpiece. Or, a forge/fire, and a pair of adjustable pliers, if you're working with thin rod. All depends on what you want to make. Tell us where you're from, and I'm sure we can find a group in your area! :)

Hear Hear! Nothing wrong with moving a decimal point back and forth a few places. They're light, and easily portable. The imperial system of dividing by twelve dates back to the other great nation of Sumeria. They don't do a lot these days, as I hear. On the subject of jobs moving to other places, (I wish mine would come to *me* for a change) perhaps resistance to change played a hand in things? Here's another conversion system for you.... I don't think it'll catch on (at least not for smithing!) weirdconverter.com weirdconverter.com

We've got laws against all kinds of things! :-D

Well, it been a while.. this is what we've been up to. Firstly, we've bought a shiny new air hammer from Alan Ball in Queensland (http://www.villagesmith.com.au). So, out goes Jezebel, our trusty old power hammer. Then, when we're partly through re-arranging our forges and anvils and getting them all how we like them, the Royal Agricultural Society, our landlords, tell us they want a new floor put in our workshop, so everything has got to come out again. Anyway, the pictures say it all. Bear in mind that most things were shifted using manpower alone. Some things were, on occasion, dragged behind a ute or suchlike, though.

Atomic absorption spectroscopy is good enough, imho. It won't register carbon,though, only additives like chromium, manganese, etc, so you do need to know what alloying elements would have been added. But it *was* good enough to tell me if that leaf spring was 5160 or 1080....

The electromagnetic fields around some welders (depending on type) can be pretty strong. I useta work in one place, where one of the spot welders would be strong enough to make your watch run faster. The hand would literally scoot around every time you did a weld. The blokes who worked there also warned me that ATM cards could be erased by the field. I'd imagine that a pacemaker is a pretty sensitive device. If ther'es enough EMF about, it'd be enough to throw it out of whack!

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0399 Clamps by Mr. Smith of Oz Grab yourself a bolt, a nut to fit, and some tube. Square tube, pipe, rectangular tube – it’s all good. Whatever type of tube you use, you’ll need 30mm-50mm or thereabouts. A length of threaded rod would also be good in place of a bolt. Drill a hole in the tube. Make the hole a bit smaller than the nut, but bigger than the bolt or rod. Weld the nut over the hole. Be careful not to blow a hole in the tube wall!! Thread in the bolt or the threaded rod. Hey presto! A clamp! Use them to hold saw blades together when making Damascus, or what have you. Some uses for easy to make clamps. Holding hacksaw blades together when making damascus when making damascus, or Mokume-Gane. Holding round bar together (weld the bottom two together first) I'm sure there's other uses folks can come up with! View full article