rthibeau

So what category does an All-In-One specialty fall in to? We need an "Open" or "Specialty" class for us.....umm.....less than conventional innovators. :D

Thompson Enamelling Co has copper in various size circles, but it's 0.040 copper, not very thick. Thompson Enamel Inc.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/51/si/drifts these are various drifts, punches, and chisels I use to make the hammer eyes. Like Glenn suggested, use the hammer head itself as the form to fit the drift to. And no, hammer making isn't usually a first time project.

IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2011 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved BP0316 Stock Stand aka Third Hand by Richard Thibeau Here is another variation on a common theme.The parts would be called “scrap” by others, but “parts is parts” and you can use whatever is handy that accomplishes the purpose. Only a couple pieces need to be forged or fabricated. How you shape those depends on what you plan to most use the stand to hold. These are the parts needed to complete this project. Start with a used brake rotor for the base of the stand. Wire brush the top surface to get it clean enough to take a weld. Weld a piece of steel to cover the center hole and support the shaft. I have used old circular saw blades or any scrap steel big enough to cover the hole will do the job. Place this larger pipe upright on the brake rotor base, use right angle magnets to get it plumb, weld the pipe to the base. Support arms can also be welded on to strengthen the stand. Use two pieces of pipe where one will fit inside the other with as little slop as possible, but still able to slide freely. Length of pipe will be according to the lowest and highest height you want the stand to support work. Diameter of pipe is not critical. Drill a hole in the larger pipe near the top, weld a nut with the bolt in it to the hole. Weld a piece of steel to the bolt head to act as a lever or wing nut so a wrench is not needed to tighten the bolt to the inside pipe. Forge a cross piece for the top of the inner pipe, weld it to the pipe. A simple piece of bar, flat or round or square, bent to shape would suffice. Insert inner pipe into the stand, check for ease of adjustment. Paint the stand in a color or colors that will make it visible anywhere in the shop.It’s surprising how one will blend in with the background and make it difficult to readily spot. The completed stand before painting. Choose your own color scheme. The top of the stand painted. The bottom of the stand painted. Other stands I have. One can never have enough tools, jigs, or helpers in a one man shop. I have one of these stands at the gas forge, the coal forge, the vise, the anvil, and two short ones for either side of the horizontal band saw, plus extras. All were made with “scrap” pieces that would eventually have to be hauled off. By recycling them into useful tools, I’ve saved that effort and time and gained more time in the convenience they give. I figure these stands have made me money without having to leave the shop. View full article

1" x 1/4" flat bar is commonly used to make a scrolling jig. Heat it up and make your perfect scroll, leaving a 90 degree bend the hard way on the stock end to clamp in the vise. Make them in various sizes and you'll always have the one you want.

Linseed oil IS NOT the only........sorry:confused:

Linseed oil is the only thing that will spontaneously combust....almost any oil, gasoline, oil based paint, mineral spirits, etc soaked rags have the potential to ignite, usually when you're not looking. Store in a metal container if necessary to keep inside, or hang up with plenty of ventiliation.

I use the brake rotors for the bases of stock support stands. See BP0316 for the full construction details.